It is time for another edition of “Random Samples”–I occasionally get samples from marketing agencies and/or producers, and these can often be grouped together into some sort of over-arching theme: Drink Them and It Will Come, Summer is Here, So That Means (More) Rosé, If It Doesn’t Sparkle, It Doesn’t Matter.
Other times, I get just a bottle or two that do not have any apparent connection or link. Instead of holding on to those bottles until the “right” combination comes along, I decided to link all these “random” bottles together, making their own category (and, being the math geek that I am, “random sample” has a bit of a double entendre).
2019 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Knights Valley AVA, Sonoma County, CA: Retail $70. Big. Ass. Bottle. Beringer has farmed this Cabernet plot in Kinghts Valley since the 1960’s and this “Reserve” wine is a fantastic representation from the appellation. Quite dark in the glass, even verging on “brooding” with the initial aromas being mostly herbal: basil, sage, rosemary. This is followed by subtle fruit (blackberry, cassis) and a healthy dose of spice (cardamom, black pepper). The palate is balanced yet reserved, with the tartness at the fore-front, followed by the tartness, verve, and the hint of tannins. Yowza. While I have a limited experience with the brand, this is clearly gangbusters. Excellent. 92 Points.
2021 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Reserve, Tupungato, Argentina: Retail $18. Heavy bottle. Agglomerated stopper. 85% Malbec 5% Merlot 5% Syrah 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark in the glass with a bit of a brooding nose of dark fruit, black pepper, pencil shavings, and basil. The palate is lighter and livelier than the nose did portend to the point I would almost be tempted to say it is “light on its feet” with ample tartness, subtle fruit, and even the hint of tannin on the extreme back-end. Dare I say this is almost “Old World” in style? Very Good. 89 Points.
2018 Chalk Hill Estate Red, Chalk Hill AVA, Sonoma County, CA: Retail $51. Big. Ass. Bottle. 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot, 2% Carménère. First, this is one of the heaviest bottles I have tried to lift in a while. My arm is in a sling as a result. Oh. The wine? Fantastic. Dark in the glass, even really dark with black raspberry, even chocolate covered black raspberry, with fresh coffee grounds, an herbal aspect (basil, thyme, mint), and maybe some pencil shavings. The palate is close to luxurious with a lovely mélange of that rich fruit, mocha, and a spicy, herbal aspect. Like I said, Fantastic. Outstanding. 93 Points.
2020 Covenant Syrah Landsman, Sta Rita Hills, CA: Retail $50. Heavy bottle. Kosher. I really enjoy the wines Jeff Morgan makes at Covenant. A lot. And this wine might well be near the top of the heap. But. It seems as though every time I write about his wines, I hear from Jeff. And it is not a simple “nice write-up” or even “you were spot on, but…”. No, when I hear from Jeff, he usually takes umbrage with something I have written–be it my attempt at explaining kosher wines or that True Rosés are inherently better, he lets me know where my misstep(s) was (were). On the whole, that is good; I don’t have an editor but I do have a healthy disdain for proof-reading, so he keeps me on my toes. I doubt, however, that he will have much of an issue with my thoughts on this Sta Rita Hills Syrah. Since. I. Love. It. Quite dark in the glass with dark, brambly fruit, a healthy dose of freshly brewed coffee, black pepper, and a hint of sage. Whoa. The palate is even more impressive with fantastic fruit, all of that spice, and a brilliant tartness. This is Syrah’s promise, what many thought the next great variety would be. Jeff, you know how to reach me. Outstanding. 94 Points.
2020 Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $120. Big. Ass. Bottle. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Kosher. I do not know Jeff Morgan well, the co-owner and founding winemaker at Covenant; we have met once and exchanged a couple of emails (he owes me one, actually), but I like to think we would hit it off if we ever “hung out”. His interests are varied and different than mine, but he is smart, seems to love a good argument, and makes great wine. Case in point. This fruit for this Cab comes from Napa (the winery is in Berkeley), and it is true to its origin: dark, close to brooding, with a bushel of blackberry and a cartload of cassis, this is fantastic on the nose. Throw in some earth, spice, black pepper, sage, and a healthy dose of verve, and this wine gets a solid “Whoa” before the first sip. The palate is magical with plenty of fruit which is wonderfully balanced by the zingy tartness and, well, have I already mentioned “verve”? I like to think I have only scratched the surface of my interactions with Jeff; I hope to touch on countless topics. Kosher wines, musical theory, what exactly is in his spice cabinet, and whether he prefers Monte Carlo to Manhattan. Outstanding. 95 Points.
2019 Kelly Fleming Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $125. Big. Ass. Bottle. Another Napa Cab, another bottle that is not only doing its part to kill the planet, it will murder a family of five with a simple toss (if you manage to lift the bottle, that is). Fairly dark in the glass even for a “pure” Cab, with notes of cassis, wild blackberry, plum, violet, black pepper, and sage; a beautiful mélange on the nose. Luscious and beautiful on the palate as well with all that dark fruit combined with spice, an herbal note, wonderful tartness, and enough tannin on the finish to suggest a lengthy life (10+ years). Listen, this is tasty and lovely now, so much so that it warrants a quick pop and pour. But. If one were willing to wait a bit? The reward would be worth it. Outstanding. 96 Points.
2021 Virginia Marie Lambrix Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $37. Under screw cap. Virginia Marie Lambrix (VML) is the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay arm of the larger Truett-Hurst winery in Dry Creek Valley. Fantastic nose, albeit subtle, of lemon curd with hints of oak and white pepper. The palate is perhaps more compelling with lovely fruit, balancing acidity, doses of vanilla and oak, and a healthy dash of verve. I am pretty sure this is my first foray into VML and I have to say I am impressed. Excellent. 92 Points.






