Over the course of a week, I taste a bunch of wine, usually with friends, and almost always with my wife. Here are some of the wines we tasted over the past few weeks. These are wines that were not sent as samples—in most cases, I actually paid for these wines (although a few may have been given as gifts).
2015 Château Bonnet (Pierre-Yves Perrachon) Vieilles Vignes, Saint-Amour , Beaujolais, France: Retail $30 (?). Responsible Bottle (555g; 19.5oz). 100% Gamay. As I wrote last time: “Sigh. This is now the fifth bottle of the six that I bought and this is the best of the lot. Did I drink the others too quickly? Is this the natural progression of the wine? Is there some bottle variation? All of the above? While many of the previous notes remain constant, this bottle seems to be richer, more cohesive, and just downright juicier. How is that possible?” Well, those sentiments are spot on a year later as I am tasting through now the last bottle (no, not that Last Bottle). This is still fruity, tart, and balanced with some intrigue and depth as well. Yeah, I might need to replenish my upper-end(ish) Beaujolais. Excellent. 92 Points.
2018 Couly-Dutheil Clos de l’Echo, Chinon, France: Retail $40. Responsible Bottle (561g; 19.7oz). Under Nomacorc (UGH!). 100% Cabernet Franc. This is not just my favorite Chinon, nor my favorite wine from the Loire Valley, but one of my favorite French wines. Full stop. There is a bit of history here (the vineyard was once owned by Rabelais’ father), the winery suffered a bit of a down-turn a decade or so ago, and Chinon, for me, was always one of my favorite towns to visit during my cycling tour guide days. Yeah. Clos. De. L’Echo. Dark, even really dark in the glass with plenty of dark fruit (plum, blackberry) and a lovely mint aspect (I am not a huge fan of mint in the kitchen, but here it is absolutely glorious). Fruity, a bit dark, tart, weighty, and expressive, this is the height of Cab Franc, for me. Yeah, I can’t imagine that I would prefer this variety from any other vineyard. That might sound grandiose, but sitting here, watching the Tour de France with this bottle of Clos de l’Echo? Yeah. Happy spot. Really happy. Outstanding. 95 Points.
2020 Louis Jadot Bourgogne Blanc Clos de Loyse Château des Jacques, Burgundy, France: Retail $20. Responsible Bottle (564g; 19.8oz). 100% Chardonnay. I picked up a few bottles of this for one of my wife’s work parties and this was left over after it was done. I am not sure when that party was or how this wine was received by her coworkers, but it is solid. Not spectacular, but solid. A bit of color in the glass, certainly “yellow” and on its way to golden, with mostly tree fruit here (more peach and pear than apple, it seems), with a hint of citrus, and just a slight mineral note. The palate is slightly fruity, with adequate acidity, and a bit of panache. No, it is not mind-blowing or mind-altering, but it is better than “never mind”–a solid quaff that I would likely opt for a second glass. Very Good. 89 Points.
2005 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor, Puento Alto, Maipo Valley, Chile: Retail $150. Very Heavy Bottle (744g; 26.1oz). 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc. Ranked #12 in the top 100 wines of 2008 by the Wine Spectator (for whatever that is worth), I was able to purchase this online for about sixty bucks back in 2012 when our collective bank account was, well, not all that healthy. And I held off until tonight, to share it with friends who are big, big Cab fans. Whoa. Right out of the bottle, it was clear that this was a “different level” kind of wine. Super dark in the glass, almost brooding, with dark fruit aromas (cassis, plum, blackberry) an earthy component, and a subtle green note that is more herbal (basil) than vegetal. Yum. The palate is still remarkably fruity, but in a more reserved, “mature” way with plenty of savory notes, whoa. There is a bit of a meaty leathery side, too, that melds well with the savory and serves as the perfect foil for the fruity side. The acid more than keeps up, the balance is on point, and the chutzpah is off the charts. Yeah, this is s remarkable wine, which I did not drink too soon as the tannins are integrated and subtle. Outstanding. 96 Points.
2024 Domaines Ott By.Ott, Côtes de Provence, France: Retail $30. “Mostly Grenache and Cinsault, with smaller amounts of Syrah and Mourvèdre.” I found myself in Tucson, Arizona, of all places, at the Doubletree Hotel, and it was pouring down rain outside (I guess this dessert doesn’t “miss” the rain?). I went down to the bar to work on an article and while the rest of the wine list was, well, regrettable, this Domaines Ott second wine leapt off the page. It has been a hot minute since I have reviewed this wine, which, in my opinion, was created by what was once considered the greatest producer of rosé in the world, to compete with Whispering Angel. And, well, it does. Classic Provençal light pink with loads of strawberry and peach on the nose. The palate is quite juicy, but also pack the requisite tangy punch to compete with all that fruit. Yum. While I might be questioning what in the “H” I am doing here in Tucson (I am, ostensibly, helping my older son find an apartment for when he moves here to start his first job), I am finding solace, even joy, in this bottle by.Ott. Outstanding. 93 Points.
2024 J. de Villebois Cuvée Terroir Silex, Sancerre, France: Retail $50. Responsible Bottle (586g; 20.6oz). 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Brilliant straw with a green tint in the glass with some nice citrus and tree fruit with some freshly cut grass and just a hint of cat pee on the nose. The palate is bright, fruity, refreshing, and just a fantastic wine. Plenty of weight (a hallmark of Sancerre) and depth, really defines this wine as does the grapefruit note that reminds you that this is indeed a Sauvignon Blanc. There is also plenty of minerality here, too, another key identifier of wines from the region. It is a bit pricey (I paid $35 at H-E-B), but it is certainly worth it. Outstanding. 93 Points.
WINE OF THE WEEK: This week I am in the South of France and yesterday was the first Monday in a very long time that I didn’t publish anything on this little blog. Sorry about that, but I hope you understand; did I mention I am in Provence. Oh well, running out the door, but I think this is the first-ever Chilean wine, the 2005 Don Melchor, that has been wine of the week. I would check, but I’m in Provence.
What was your Wine of the Week?
