the drunken cyclist

This is the fourth in a series of articles as I look back on the year that was 2025. Once again, I tasted over 1,000 wines in the previous twelve months, which boggles my mind a bit since that averages out to about three a day. As I contemplate the state of my liver, I also like to reflect on the top wines that I was fortunate enough to taste over the course of the year. Here, I present the best red wines I tasted in 2025.

2010 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $150. Extremely Heavy Bottle (866g; 30.5oz). Another dark one with more of an earthy nose, black earth and pine needles abound with some dark fruit, even really dark fruit that comes off as ever-so-slightly stewed. The palate, though, is gorgeous. Rich, intense fruit (blackberry tart, yowza) and a subtle (at least initially) tartness that is perfectly happy letting the fruit do its thing. Whoa. Tons of mocha as well. Holy cow. Outstanding Plus. 97 Points.

2005 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $175. Extremely Heavy Bottle (866g; 30.5oz). Super dark in the glass with only the slightest of bricking. Not a ton of fruit on the nose, but plenty of earth and a lovely mushroom aspect, black pepper, and thyme lead the spice brigade. Whoa. The fruit almost explodes on the palate; it’s becoming cliché with this wine, but intense, layered, powerful but elegant. My goodness, this has to be near the top of Napa Cabs I have tried. Yowza. Extraordinary. 98 Points.

The Napa Cabernet: 2010,

2022 Brooks Rastaban Pinot Noir, Eola – Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, OR: $60. Another wine, first made by Jimi and from the Estate vineyard, Rastaban is the star that is the eye of the dragon in the Draco constellation. A bit darker red fruit here, think raspberry and maybe even a hint of blueberry. Whoa. Rich without being cloying, bright without being aggressive; just impeccably balanced and loaded with layers and complexity. Yowza. Outstanding. 96 Points.

2021 Bruna Grimaldi Bricco Ambrogio, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy: Retail $110. 100% Nebbiolo, from one of the delineated MGAs (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive, kind of the Barolo equivalent of a “Cru”). Very steep vineyards with a generally warmer micro-climate, receiving a lot of sun all day long. Ripe fruit sweet tannins. Lower acidity compared to other MGA. Bruna Grimaldi has owned one of the 49 hectares in the MGA since 2007. Whoa. Gorgeous. Really, really fruity with acidity coming in on the midpalate. Spicy and sophisticated with just oodles of verve, yowza. Some silky but significant tannins on the finish. Whoa. Incredible now. But with 3-5 or more years? Outstanding Plus. 97 Points.

2023 Crimson Veil Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Crimson Ridge, Red Hills, Lake County, CA: Retail $80. Criminally Heavy Bottle (1009g; 35.5oz). Under cork. Shiner: the bottle was “labeled with a hand-written sticker. This is now my second foray into the Lake County, Red Hills appellation, and I have to say, I really like it thus far. This wine comes from the Beckstoffer Vineyard (yes, that Beckstoffer), and I have to say, this is likely one of the best Cabs I have had all year. Inky dark in the glass with a complex nose of dark fruit (blackberry, plum, cassis), pencil shavings, toasted oak, and touches of forest floor. Yowza. The palate is rich, even close to really rich, with tons of that black fruit, but also some finesse, as the tart acidity knifes through the robust exterior. The tannins are silky but present, suggesting some mid-term cellaring potential. Holy cow, this is phenomenal. Outstanding. 97 Points.

2021 Lange Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $80. 450 cases made. Perhaps half a shade darker than the Assemblage. Perhaps. Fresher fruit here, but it’s darker, with more black cherry and raspberry. Tarter, even on the verge of a sour cherry vibe on the nose, with a bit of earth and a mineral note. Subtle initially on the palate. Pleasant, but a bit underwhelming. Well, that changes dramatically on the mid-palate with first a wave of fruit, followed by some intense tang and a multitude of layers. Whoa. The intensity builds through and beyond the finish. Yowza. It’s as if you’re motionless at the top of a hill and then start rolling down, gaining speed all along the way, no need to think about the brakes, since the ride is so glorious. Some silky tannins on the finish make you think you should slow down and keep a few bottles of this around for a while. Extraordinary. 98 Points.

2022 Muret-Gaston Grenache Boushey Vineyard, Yakima Valley, WA: Retail $50(?). Very Responsible Bottle (475g; 16.8oz). Under cork. 100% Grenache. For whatever reason, and I really don’t understand it at all, there is not a ton of 100% Grenache to be found. Sure, it *exists* but in the grand scheme? There ain’t much (excluding large swaths of Spain, I guess). And that is a shame since I have yet to try a 100% Grenache that wasn’t absolutely fantastic (excluding a few bottles from Spain, I guess). Case in point. I have no idea if this is Kyle and Amy Johnson’s first 100% Grenache, but based on this bottle? They should be making a sheet-ton more of it. Whoa. Medium-ruby and translucent, this wine is gorgeous from the first pour with a bushel of red, blue, and black berry fruit, a touch of spice, fresh cut roses, and the slightest hint of anise on the nose. Whoa. The palate is even better, amazingly, with wave after wave of juicy fruit, a smidge of earth, spice, and plenty of lip-smacking tartness. I have not talked to Kyle about this wine (yet?), but like the Blanc I tasted right before this beauty, this has to be among his top efforts thus far. And he’s still a young(ish) guy with a gorgeous full head of hair; I imagine there will be a few more “his best wine yet” kind of proclamations in the near future. Outstanding. 96 Points.

2009 Skewis Pinot Noir Lingenfelder, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $50. Heavy Bottle (659g; 23.2oz). Under cork. It has been a minute since I have popped a Skewis, and since I am now under two total cases left, these are becoming more and more precious. Precious rhymes with delicious (I think), and this bottle was certainly both. Great, rich fruit with some vanilla and a hint of oak on the nose, and each of those characteristics was on the palate as well, but accentuated. Incredibly rich and layered, if I had tasted this blind, I am sure I would never have guessed that it was 15 years old; it is just amazing. Extraordinary. 97 Points.

2022 PÁŠXA Syrah, Rockgarden Vineyard, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA, Walla Walla, WA: Retail $125. Beautiful magenta in the glass with a minty, meaty, and spicy nose. Yum. Really great red and black fruit on the palate with that meaty spice element prevalent from the jump. I would put this on the “big” side of Syrah, and it is fabulous. Really well done. Outstanding Plus. 97 Points.

2001 Pedroncelli Cabernet Sauvignon, Block 007 Estate Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $80? Very Heavy Bottle (711g; 25.0oz). Medium to dark magenta with a very earthy nose. Mushroom, forest floor, mint, sweet basil. Yowza. Holy goodness, this is incredible. There is some blackberry coulis on the palate, but it is almost entirely tertiary flavors and aromas at this point, and it is glorious. We paired this with trofie con fungi and 48-hour short ribs and it was magical. Outstanding Plus. 97 Points.

Red Wine of the Year:

2023 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir Pinot de Ville, Sonoma Coast: I first tasted this wine as part of The Eighth Annual World’s Largest Blind Tasting of American Pinot Noir: Retail $69. Under DIAM. Whoa. Subtle but wonderful nose of wild cherry and black cherry. The palate is rich and engaging with fantastic fruit and near impeccable balance. Several layers, each worthy of contemplation. Whoa. Outstanding. 97 Points.

As with the other Tongue Dancer Wines, I pulled this aside so that I could take another taste. And as with all the other wines from this producer, the extra time paid dividends. Yes, I was stunned by this on the first pass (97 Points). The second go around? The fruit actually brightened up a bit, moving from a black fruit-dominant wine to a more red (and black) approach that lifts both the nose and the palate. Holy cow. While I do believe that many wines benefit from time either in the cellar or in the decanter, Tongue Dancer Wines might be the poster child for that sentiment. Whoa. Outstanding Plus. 98 Points.

Runners-up (96 Points):

2009 Amelle Zinfandel Buck Hill, Sonoma County, CA: Retail $25.
2011 Amelle Pinot Noir Pratt Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $45.
2015 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $140.
2021 Bruna Grimaldi Camilla, Barolo Classico, Piedmont, Italy: Retail $55.
2021 Bruna Grimaldi Badarina, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy: Retail $120.
2013 Caldwell Platinum, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $350(?).
2010 Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir, Sta Rita Hills, CA: Retail $50.
2005 Cosentino Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $80.
2018 Couly-Dutheil Clos de l’Echo, Chinon, France: Retail $40.
2022 PÁŠXA Grenache, Rockgarden Vineyard, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA, Walla Walla, WA: Retail $125.
2023 Sangiacomo Family Wines Pinot Noir, Sangiacomo Roberts Road Vineyard, Petaluma Gap, CA: Retail $75.

Honorable Mention (95 Points):

2011 Amelle Zinfandel Mori Vineyard, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $25.
2011 Amelle Pinot Noir Pratt Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $45.
2020 Domaine les Béates, Terra d’Or Rouge, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France: Retail: 35€.
2012 Benovia Pinot Noir Tilton Hill, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $55.
2009 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Vineyard, Sta Rita Hills, CA: Retail $75.
2021 Bricco Carlina Raviole, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy: Retail $75.
2023 Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir The Famous Gate, Carneros, CA: Retail $95.
2009 Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir, Sta Rita Hills, CA: Retail $50.
2007 Cosentino Winery Cabernet Franc Reserve, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $100.
2022 Donum Pinot Noir, Carneros, CA: Retail $95.
2021 Illahe Pinot Noir Percheron Block Estate, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $50.
2022 Illahe Pinot Noir 1899, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $85.
1997 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas Domaine de Saint Pierre, Rhône Valley, France: Retail $90?
2008 Littorai Pinot Noir Platt Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $85
2021 Meyye Wines Pinot Noir ‘Omay, Petaluma Gap, CA: Retail $75.
2006 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia, Super Tuscan, Italy: Retail $325.
2008 Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir Estate Old Vine, Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $50.
2020 Pedroncelli Cabernet Sauvignon, Block 007 Estate Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $40.
2021 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $95.
2021 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Yamhill Cuvée, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $70.
2009 Skewis Pinot Noir Salzgeber-Chan Vineyard, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $50.
2009 Skewis Pinot Noir, Peters Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $50.
2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $65.
2023 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Pinot Noir, Sangiacomo Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $60
2017 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $50.
2023 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $49.