While I have been drinking wine for a lot longer, this blog is just a bit over eleven years old. In that relatively brief period, I have seen a few of my favorite producers close their doors for good. Well, there is about to be another added to that list: ACORN Winery in the Russian River Valley.

Earlier this year, I heard the bittersweet news that Betsy and Bill Nachbaur had produced their last vintage. While they will continue to farm their Alegría Vineyard (and its 111 different grape varieties) and sell the fruit to other producers in the area, once the current stock of bottled wine has been sold, Betsy and Bill will close up the winery for good.*

(*When questioned, Bill left open the possibility of perhaps producing another vintage or two of rosé, but that was met with a heavy eye roll from Betsy, so who knows?)

When I visited them back in April, they both seemed a bit relieved at not having to contend with the ridiculous assortment of state regulations and the business of running a winery. But I also got the impression that they will miss the frequent interaction with their customers, many of whom have become friends.

Bill explained the layout of the vineyards to my buddy, Christophe Bristiel.

I know I will miss the wine, certainly, but I will also miss my visits with Betsy, Bill, and their always endearing bickering that usually starts with Bill convinced that he is right about a given topic and almost always ends with Betsy providing proof that he is not.

Betsy sent me a few wines to review a few months before their announcement. At the time, I had no idea these would likely be the last wines that I would get to sample from ACORN. Then, much to my surprise, I received another half-dozen wines this summer to review.

There are not a lot of these wines left and most are limited to a maximum of two bottles to purchase, but I am sincere when I say you should try to get a few bottles of wine from ACORN before they are no more.

2021 ACORN Grüner Veltliner Alegría Vineyards, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $37. Under DIAM5. “80% Grüner Veltliner with Roter Veltliner, Traminer, Rotgipfler, Ehrenfelser, Kerner, Silvaner, Viognier, Furmint, Harrslevelu, Arnsburger, Faberrebe, Scheurebe, Wurzer, and other varieties. Several points to make here. First, I have been reviewing ACORN wines for a half-dozen years at least, with over thirty wines tasted and this is my first white. Second, since the Nachbaurs have 111 (!) different varieties on their property, it is no surprise that this Grüner has another dozen or so varieties blended with it. Last, while this is the first white I have received from ACORN, it is also likely the last as the Nachbaurs have announced that they are no longer going to produce their own wine. And while I understand completely (they have two adult sons, but neither is interested in taking over the winery), it is too bad as this Grüner, like all ACORN wines I have tried, is fabulous. Pale to medium straw in the glass with lemon, lime, Bosc pear, and a bit of green apple. The palate is spectacular with brilliant acidity, great fruit, and a mineral aspect that is not always present in domestic Grüner. Fantastic. Excellent. 91 Points.

2018 ACORN Acorn Hill Alegría Vineyards, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $45. Under DIAM5. 49% Sangiovese, 48.5% Syrah, 1.5% Viognier, 0.5% Mammolo, and 0.5% Canaiolo. A couple of months ago, a box of wine arrived that I was not expecting–it was a half-dozen bottles of ACORN Wine and I was ecstatic but also sad. Ecstatic because ACORN is one of my favorite producers in Sonoma County and Bill and Betsy Nachbauer, the proprietors, are two of my favorite people on earth. I was also sad, however, since this will likely be the last such package I open as Bill and Betsy have decided to step away from making their own wine (they will still be running the vineyard and selling all of the fruit). This Estate blend is always one of my favorites: dark in the glass with plenty of dark fruit (blackberry, plum, cassis) as well as a bit of spice (black pepper, cardamom). The palate is fruity but harmonious with all that black fruit plus a healthy dose of zing, this wine starts strong but finishes even stronger adding in some rather healthy tannins on the finish. Like the Nachbauers, this is lovely but also feisty and fun. Excellent. 92 Points.

2019 ACORN Sangiovese Alegría Vineyards, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $45. Field blend: 98% Sangiovese (23 clones), 1% Canaiolo Nero, 1% Mammolo Toscano. This was one of the six bottles I recently received from Betsy and Bill Nachbaur, owners of ACORN and I was thrilled that they included it. There is not a ton of Sangiovese in Russian River but even if there were, I am sure that ACORN would likely produce the best. Medium color in the glass with red and black fruit predominate on the nose. There is also considerable earth, an herbal aspect (basil), and a touch of spice (cardamom). The palate is typical ACORN: wonderful fruit, plenty of depth, and incredible balance. As I have mentioned, Betsy and Bill are winding the winery down, so stock up on these gems while you still can. Outstanding. 94 Points. 

2019 ACORN Syrah Axiom Alegría Vineyards, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $50. Under DIAM5. 97% Syrah, 3% Viognier. For ACORN, this is a ridiculously tame blend as only two varieties are involved. Quite dark in the glass, almost on the verge of brooding with blackberry, plum, cassis, and some dark earth. There is also an herbal element (basil) with a touch of spice. Lovely. The palate is fruit-driven for sure, but the tartness is easily its equal and that acidity drives the bus starting at the mid-palate and continues all the way to the finish. Which lasts for minutes. I have said many times that I am sad about the end of the production of ACORN wine, but I celebrate this next chapter for Bill and Betsy Nachbaur. Outstanding. 93 Points.

2019 ACORN Zinfandel Heritage Vines Alegría Vineyards, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $50. Under DIAM5. 78% Zinfandel, 11% Alicante Bouschet, 9% Petite Sirah. The remaining 2% includes Carignane, Trousseau, Sangiovese, Petit Bouschet, Negrette, Plavac Mali, Syrah, Tannat, Muscat Noir, Peloursin, Cinsaut, Béclan, Grenache, Graciano, Palomino, and Monbadon. Holy goodness, look at that list of varieties. Quintissential ACORN. Dark in color and aromas, this approaches a Yowza with the nose. The palate is quite fruity but surprisingly a tad short in acidity, which is a bit of a departure from what I have come to expect from ACORN. They usually tend toward “old world” and while this is much more fruitforward than typical ACORN, this is still Excellent. 90 Points.

2019 ACORN Syrah Medley Alegría Vineyards, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $50. “20% Syrah, 20% Zinfandel, 18% Cinsaut, 8% Dolcetto, 7% Cabernet Franc, 5% Sangiovese, plus a dozen different muscats, Viognier, and other varieties.” I have tasted several vintages of this wine now and it continues to amaze me. Quite fruity, with a tangy balance, with just a touch of spice. I recently visited with the Nachbaurs at ACORN and I heard the bittersweet news that this will be the last vintage of the Medley as the Nachbaurs will be closing the winery. While that is certainly sad for the fan of fantastic wine, it is a good outcome for the venerable couple as they plan to take a little more time for themselves. Bravo, Betsy and Bill, as this is another stellar wine. Outstanding. 95 Points.