It is time for another edition of “Random Samples”–I occasionally get samples from marketing agencies and/or producers. These can often be grouped together into some sort of over-arching theme: Drink Them and It Will Come, Summer is Here, So That Means (More) Rosé, If It Doesn’t Sparkle, It Doesn’t Matter.
Other times, I get just a bottle or two that do not have any apparent connection or link. Instead of holding on to those bottles until the “right” combination comes along, I decided to link all these “random” bottles together, making their own category (and, being the math geek that I am, “random sample” has a bit of a double entendre).
2021 Art of Earth Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina: Retail $12. Under screw cap. Responsible bottle (384g). Fairly dark in the glass with tons of fruit, particularly a black cherry Kool-Aid vibe going on. The palate is fruity, even quite fruity with an earthy, acid-driven aspect that is more compelling than I expected. As always, my litmus test with this type of wine is the wedding reception. If I were at a wedding and this was the only wine available, would I opt for this or inquire about the beer? While this is a bit of a close call, I would likely stay with this Cab. Unless, of course, there were some Belgian Beers at the ready but no one, absolutely no one, would choose this wine and also procure any Belgian beers for a wedding reception. I am pretty confident in that. Very Good. 88 Points.
2020 Complant Chardonnay Linda Vista Vineyard, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $40. Responsible bottle (582g; 1lb 4.5oz). Under cork. The fruit comes from the Linda Vista Vineyard, which is managed by Steve Matthiasson, one of the hot winemakers in Napa Valley these days. Sam Baron makes the wine with his father, Dan Baron, the latter of whom was a winemaker at Silver Oak (among numerous other spots) for over two decades. It is fairly light in color and shy in the glass with subtle notes of lemon curd and a notable mineral aspect. As I mentioned to Dan during our Zoom call, this is not your mother’s Napa Chardonnay; while there is certainly a ton of fruit on the palate, the acidity is the story here, bright, vibrant, and lingering. Much of what characterizes this wine is actually what it is not; there is not an over-abundance of oak, in fact, the neutral Burgundy oak barrels (where the wine spent seven months on the lees), are barely perceptible. The result is a delightfully refreshing, contemplative wine. Excellent. 92 Points.
2020 Complant Cabernet Sauvignon, UC Davis South Station Vineyard, Oakville, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $105. Under cork. Responsible bottle. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium to dark color in the glass with blackberry, cassis, mocha, and even a hint of pencil shavings on the nose. The palate is fruity and tart, but nowhere near what one would expect from a “typical” Napa Cab. This wine is lively and lithe, not clumsy and cumbersome; this is a wine that needs, no, belongs on the dinner table, as an accompaniment to the meal. Look, I do not pretend to be an expert or even a fan of Napa Cabs, but I can say that if more of the Cabernets from the U.S.’s most prestigious appellation were like this one, I would definitely be one of the region’s biggest fans. Outstanding. 94 Points.
2022 Bodegas El Coto Rioja Blanco, Spain: Retail $13. 93% Viura, 4% Sauvignon Blanc, 3% Verdejo. Under screw cap. Normally, I love me some white Rioja. It is fairly rare (about 10% of the region’s production) but when you grab a hold of a good one? Holy smokes. Thus, I was excited about this wine; I mean white Rioja! Well. Sure, it is fun and a departure, but… Bright and citrusy on the nose with some tree fruit thrown in, I was intrigued. The palate is tart, for sure, but also a bit austere and short. Don’t get me wrong, this is a fine white Rioja, but it is far from the headliners of the region. Very Good. 87 Points.
2020 J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Oaks, Paso Robles, CA: Retail $17. Bottle weight: 592g. 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petite Sirah, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Dark, even really dark in the glass with cassis, anise, hints of green pepper, and a sweet blackberry pie aspect that is more than compelling. The palate is fruity and rich, certainly more than I had expected with dark berry fruit, spice, and more than a modicum of heft. Upon first sip? Nah. Pass. But upon further reflection (and a bit of time open)? 180° turn. This is delightful, quaffable, and quite lovely, actually. Very Good. 89 Points.
2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber, Applegate Valley, OR: Retail $35. 70% Vermentino, 25% Viognier, 5% Rousanne. This is now my fourth vintage of this wine that I have sampled and the folks at Troon certainly have it dialed in. While I am not sure if an amber or orange wine is an “acquired taste” it certainly is a different style of wine (in brief, it is a white wine made as if it were a red wine with extended contact with the skins). Golden, even approaching orange in color, and floral (orange blossom), fruity (orange peel, lemon rind), and spicy (allspice, ginger). Throw in a healthy dose of honey and there is officially a ton going on with the nose. The palate is rich and layered with baked tree fruit, honey, that ginger, and plenty of heft. Again, this is not a wine for everyone, but like the three vintages that preceded this one, this is really a fantastic iteration of the genre. Outstanding. 93 Points.






