A Few Bottles from Cameron Hughes Wine

On most Fridays, I present an assortment of what I like to call the Random Samples, a random assortment of wines that I receive on a rather regular basis.

This week, I am focusing on a single producer, Cameron Hughes Wine. Cameron Hughes, along with Jessica Kogan, founded Cameron Hughes Wine back in 2001 and established the brand as a négociant. Although the concept is rather prevalent in Europe, there are few (any?) négociants in the U.S.

The concept is rather straightforward. Cameron Hughes would purchase bulk wine somewhere along the process (e.g., unprocessed fruit, grape must [non-fermented juice], or pre-bottled wine), finish the wine (if need be), and then bottle it under his own label.

The wineries that would sell him the wine had various reasons to do so including excess fruit, good fruit but perhaps not up to a certain standard, or even the need for an influx of cash.

Whatever the reason, Cameron Hughes would receive the wine at a discount and would then pass much of the savings along to the consumer. The catch? Hughes would not divulge who sold him the fruit. Sure, the origin (Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast, etc.) would be indicated, but the actual seller would not so as to protect the value of the original brand (it would be difficult to justify a $150 price for a Napa Cab if Cameron Hughes were offering the “same wine” for say, $30).

Several years ago, the Cameron Hughes brand was purchased by Vintage Wine Estates and they sent me the following wines to review this past fall.

NV Cameron Hughes Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Lot 738, Veneto, Italy: Retail $15. 100% Glera. I have to admit, I had no idea what to expect when I pulled this bottle out of the cellar. I thought it might be good, given its DOCG status (the best Proseccos are DOCG), but I was a little nervous with an American négociant making an Italian wine concept. Not sure why, I just was. Well, no need. This is fantastic. Quite pale in color with golden and yellow delicious apple, a slight nuttiness, and just a touch of white acacia on the nose. The palate is fruity, tart, and vivacious with a subtle sparkle and a lingering finish. Yeah, fantastic. Excellent. 90 Points.

From Vintage Wine Estates.

2019 Cameron Hughes Chardonnay Lot 863, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $17. Under cork. The Russian River fruit here is really evident as is the blend of 60/40 oak/stainless steel. Straw to yellow in color in the glass with citrus and tropical fruit mainly on the nose. The palate is fruity, rich, and unctuous, frankly a lot more there than I had anticipated. Far from shy, but this is not a fruity oak monster either. While there might be a few in the “Anything But Chardonnay” crowd that would argue, I think this does a fine job of finding the balance between the “traditional California” style and the newer, unoaked trend that seems to be gaining popularity. Very Good. 89 Points.

2020 Cameron Hughes Pinot Noir Lot 869, Santa Margarita Ranch, San Luis Obispo, CA: Retail $20. I tasted this as part of my Sixth Annual Blind Tasting of American Pinot Noir back in early November. Dark in color with rich aromas and a hint of earth. Starts off well on the palate with fruit and tartness, but finishes quite hot. Very Good. 88 Points.

2019 Cameron Hughes Minervois Lot 842, France: Retail $15. Syrah 60%, Grenache 40%. Responsible bottle. Minervois is one of the more reputable appellations in Languedoc and this predominantly Syrah wine certainly represents the wines of the region well. A bit rustic, quite fruity (at least for a French wine), fairly dark in the glass, and with a bit of anise on the nose. The palate is quite pleasant and balanced with subtle fruit and a lovely tang, particularly after some time open. I was not expecting much, but this wine surpassed that and more. Excellent. 90 Points.

2019 Cameron Hughes Zinfandel Lot 864, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $18. Responsible bottle. Under synthetic stopper. 100% Zinfandel. Medium to dark color in the glass with spicy red fruit, a bit of smoke, and even a touch of anise. A very nice nose, quite inviting, in fact. The palate is fruity, but not overly so, with nice acidity and balance. Look, this is a lovely wine, with all the requisite parts, it just might be lacking a “wow” factor. Very Good. 88 Points.

2016 Cameron Hughes Lot 837 Toscana IGT, Italy: Retail $20. Big Ass Bottle (863g; 1lb 14.5oz). 80% Sangiovese, 20% Syrah. This is the last of the wines that I received several months ago from Cameron Hughes Wines and it is right up there with the best. Sure, the bottle is ridiculously heavy and is likely considered a deadly weapon, but the contents are much more humane: medium color with dark, brambly fruit. Add in hints of earth, a floral aspect (hibiscus), a dab of mocha, and an herbal note (mint), and the nose comes into focus. The palate is fairly light but balanced between the relatively subtle fruit and the zingy tartness. All in all? An enjoyable wine that made the night’s pizza more than enjoyable. Excellent. 90 Points.

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Chardonnay, Dry Creek Valley, Glera, Grenache, Minervois, Pinot Noir, Prosecco, Russian River Valley, San Luis Obispo, Sangiovese, Sparkling Wine, Syrah, Tuscany, Wine, Zinfandel. Bookmark the permalink.

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