What We Have Been Drinking—7/1/2024

Over the course of a week, I taste a bunch of wine, usually with friends, and almost always with my wife.  Here are some of the wines we tasted over the past few weeks. These are wines that were not sent as samples—in most cases, I actually paid for these wines (although a few have been given as gifts).

2021 Fontanafredda Langhe Arneis Bricco Tondo, Piedmont, Italy: Retail $20. Ridiculously responsible bottle (407g; 14.3oz). Under screw cap. 100% Arneis. Arneis is quickly moving up the list of favorite Italian white varieties and this is a great example why. Grown almost exclusively in Piedmont, the variety was on the verge of extinction in the latter half of the 20th Century as the popularity of Nebbiolo exploded. A renewed interest in native Italian grapes, however, saved the variety with close to 1,500 hectares (~3500 acres) now planted. Brilliant straw, close to yellow in the glass with Asian pear, almond, a bit of flint, but also a bit reductive with a slightly smoky or matchstick aspect on the nose. The palate is fruity and inviting with a balancing tartness and nice depth. I paid just over $13 (on sale) for this wine at H-E-B (I love my H-E-B) and I might go back and buy some more. Excellent. 91 Points.

NV Gardet Champagne Dosage Zéro, France: Retail $60. 34% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Meunier. Over the last handful of years or so, low to no dosage wines have become much more prevalent as consumers have indicated that they prefer drier champagnes. Great nose of tree fruit, citrus. And yeast. The palate is wonderfully dry, even on the verge of austere, but with great fruit, plenty of both body and depth, and an extremely long finish. While no-dosage wines might be a bit of a shock for the casual champagne fan, for the aficionado? This is close to revelatory. Outstanding. 93 Points.

2011 Azienda Giribaldi Barolo, Piedmont, Italy: Retail $40. Responsible Bottle (565g; 19.9oz). Under cork. 100% Nebbiolo. I bought several bottles of this wine from the PLCB way back in 2015 and this is the first that I’ve opened. Meh. Initially, it was quite odd with a medicinal/minty element on the nose that was not unpleasant but it was not enticing either. I corked it and let it sit overnight and day 2 was certainly better, but nothing exceptional. Some faded fruit, decent acidity, and a touch of weight but this really is a disappointment. Sure, for the twenty bucks I paid, I shouldn’t expect much, and well, I got what I paid for. Very Good. 88 Points.

NV Jean-Noël Haton Champagne Brut Classic, France: Retail $45(?). Exceedingly Heavy Bottle (836g; 1lb 13.5oz). 60% Pinot Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir. Technically a Blanc de Noirs (although not labeled as such), when I saw this for under $30 at the wine superstore Spec’s here in Texas, I bought a case. Good thing. While it has been a few years since I have last tasted this cuvée, this bottle seems to be better than previous iterations: tart, yeast, balanced, plenty of citrus fruit, and a slight herbal note (celery seed). Yum. For $27-ish? Yeah, we should have bought more but, alas, the sale is over. #Dummy Excellent. 90 Points.

2018 de Négoce Chardonnay OG N.77, Tamhill-Carlton, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $12. Responsible Bottle (593g; 20.9oz). I will say it again: the de Négoce wines are solid, even well above solid and while it requires purchasing them by the case (usually), the wines that I have tried certainly do not disappoint. This Chardonnay is singing and I could not be happier. Quite light in the glass with barely a “pale straw” evident, but there is quite a bit of citrus and just a touch of oak on the nose. The palate is tart, but not overly so, with a slightly weighty mouth-feel, and subtle citrus and oak. If I had to choose? This is more aligned with a Chablis than a Côte d’Or Burgundy, which is just fine by me. This wine will not hit you over the head with power or flavor, but if you are patient and proceed meticulously, the rewards will be significant. Outstanding. 93 Points.

2010 Skewis Pinot Noir Peters Vineyard. Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $50. Heavy Bottle (641g; 22.6oz). Under cork. I have waxed poetically (hopefully) about Skewis wines; I have wept due to their retirement (after the 2014 vintage); I have wished that Hank and Maggie would reconsider and start making wine anew. To no avail. I am on a sinking ship when it comes to Skewis Wines as I have a finite few left and no more will be produced. Sob. Nonetheless, this 2010 Peters was joyous tonight. Bright Bing Cherry, Eucalyptus (which I normally associate with the Central Coast), layer upon layer of intrigue, and a tartness that no doubt characterized this vintage. Whoa. Plus. Outstanding. 95 Points.

WINE OF THE WEEK: I just checked and if my CellarTracker inventory is correct, I am down below two cases left of wines made by Hank Skewis. That might sound like a lot, but Skewis was one of the few wine clubs I ever joined and when he retired after the 2014 vintage, I had close to five cases on hand. The bottles have gradually dwindled, but the wines are certainly holding their quality, perhaps even improving. Each of these gems I open now serves as a special occasion, of sorts, and the 2010 Skewis Pinot Noir Peters Vineyard held up its end and really delivered. With the remaining 23 bottles of Skewis remaining in my cellar, I face a dilemma: I don’t want to wait too long to open them but nor do I want to race through them too quickly.

What was/were your Wine(s) of the Week?

 

 

Unknown's avatar

About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Arneis, Champagne, Chardonnay, France, Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Willamette Valley, Wine. Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to What We Have Been Drinking—7/1/2024

  1. Robert Shive's avatar Robert Shive says:

    Over the last handful of years or so, low to no dosage wines have become much more prevalent as consumers have indicated that they prefer “drier champagnes”.

    I’d change to: prefer “champagnes with lower sugars for health reasons”. I read articles about wine sales declining based on paper surveys. If the researchers stood in stores, poured wine for customers, and asked questions, they would learn that sugar levels, sulfites, and country of origin have a huge impact on purchase decisions.

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    • Thanks so much for the comment!

      I don’t know. The vast majority of champagne/sparkling wine produced falls into the Brut category which is most often stated as 5-10 grams of sugar per liter dosage. A bottle of wine is 3/4 a liter, so let’s say 4-7 grams of extra sugar per bottle, or one gram (or less) additional sugar per glass. A gram of sugar is 4 calories. So even if you drink the entire bottle yourself, that is an extra 20 calories or so above a Zero dosage bottle (all other things being equal). I just don’t see it.

      I do see, however, many, many somms decreeing that Brut Nature is the way to go (along with grower champagne) and thus it has become “hip” among that crowd.

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