A little over a year and a half ago, we hosted a wine dinner at our humble little abode here in Houston. That, in and of itself, is not all that remarkable; we have hosted countless wine dinners over the years and will (hopefully) continue to do so.

What pushed that dinner back in January, 2023 into the “slightly different” category (please notice I did not say “slightly unique” please don’t get me started) was that the winemaker was here to talk about her wines.

Again, we have had winemakers and winery owners join us before at our modest dinners, but on that chilly (at least for Texas) January night, said winemaker was Elizabeth Vianna of esteemed Napa Valley producer Chimney Rock. 

By all accounts, that dinner (to which we invited a handful of other Houston-based wine writers and a few local wino friends of mine) was a smashing success. Even the food, prepared by yours truly, was apparently edible.

I figured that it was like many of our “sponsored” wine dinners a one-off, happenstance, if you will. This past spring, however, the fine folks at Chimney Rock contacted me and asked if we would like to “run it back” (basketball parlance for “do it again”). It seemed that Elizabeth was going to be in town once again and she wanted to do a couple of mini-verticals this time.

Yes please.

It turned out that it we would be tasting three consecutive vintages of Elizabeth’s incredible Elevage Blanc (at the risk of sounding hyperbolic, it is likely my favorite white in all of Napa Valley) and three vintages of the fantastic Tomahawk Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the vineyard designate wines from Chimney Rock. 

Chimney Rock dates back to 1980 when a long time Pepsi executive, Hack Wilson and his wife Stella purchased a golf course on the east side of the Silverado Trail. They promptly planted vines on the back nine of the course (keeping the other nine holes open, at least initially), mostly to Cabernet Sauvignon.

The first vintage was four years later, in 1984, and the wine received instant accolades. The winery and tasting room were built in the early 1990s and in 2000, the Terlato family joined as investors in Chimney Rock. A few years later, when the Wilson were ready to retire, the Terlatos became sole owners of the estate and have since strived to maintain its position as one of the top Cabernet producers in Napa Valley.

Elizabeth walked us through 8 different wines that night in our dining room (including the Sauvignon Gris and the flagship Stag’s Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon).

Elizabeth, at the head of the table, discussing her wonderful Elevate Blancs.

2022 Chimney Rock Sauvignon Gris, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $45. Heavy Bottle (675g; 23.8oz). Under cork. You don’t see a lot of Sauvignon Gris. In fact, you probably don’t see any of it at all. But at Chimney Rock, it is not only the main driver in Elizabeth Vianna’s fantastic white, Elevage Blanc, but she also makes some of it as a singular varietal wine. And it is delicious. Not much color, but plenty of Bosc pear and minerality on the nose. The palate is tart, tangy, and terrific, with plenty of fruit (but far from ostentatious) and an angular acidity that starts at the first sip and drives through all the way to the lengthy finish. Fantastic. Outstanding. 93 Points.

Said Elevate Blancs (and a Sauvignon Gris for good measure).

2020 Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $56. Very Heavy Bottle (786g; 27.6oz). 78.5% Sauvignon Gris, 21.5% Sauvignon Blanc. Picked before the fires (didn’t make any reds) the fruit is more reserved but there is plenty of tree fruit (pear and peach) and a white flower aspect. The palate is round and full but carried by the acidity. Yowza. Outstanding. 94 Points.

2021 Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $56. Very Heavy Bottle (796g; 28oz). 71% Sauvignon Gris, 29% Sauvignon Blanc. Similar nose to the first wine with tropical and citrus fruit and a noticeable creamy aspect, but nuttier with some guava and hyacinth. Rich and intense mouthfeel with near perfect balance from the jump. Creamy, rich, and multi-layered. Whoa. All three of the Elevate wines were spectacular, but this is my favorite (but only barely). Outstanding. 96 Points.

2022 Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $56. Very Heavy Bottle (789g; 27.7oz). 63% Sauvignon Gris, 37% Sauvignon Blanc. One of my favorite whites this is again, absolutely gorgeous. A bit chilly but a fantastic nose of tropical and citrus with a creamy backbone. The palate is euphoric with an initial wave of fruit, followed by a tangy creaminess and finishes with a mineral, floral note. Outstanding. 95 Points.

Next, we moved on to Cabernet, starting with the current release of the Stag’s Leap District Cab before three vintage of Tomahawk.

2021 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $110. Heavy Bottle (686g; 24.1oz). Under cork. “91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot, and minuscule percentages of Petit Verdot and Malbec.” A blend of all 26 blocks on the property. Great red and blue fruit on the nose with an herbal aspect “Jam is for toast” declared Elizabeth Vianna when I mentioned how lively this was for a Napa Cab. Rich and wonderful on the palate with plenty of fruit and a mocha spicy aspect that is gorgeous. Tart and full with silky but present tannins. Very nice. Outstanding. 93 Points.

2014 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Tomahawk Vineyard, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $170. Heavy Bottle (666g; 23.4oz). Under cork. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Minty with black olive and somewhat subtle yet brooding fruit on the nose. Gorgeous. Great weight and viscosity with that mint aspect that is really compelling. The fruit is subdued, compared with the others in the flight, but this is perhaps more elegant as a result. Whoa. Outstanding. 93 Points.

I have to say the Tomahawks worked well with my homemade tagliatelle Bolognese.

2019 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Tomahawk Vineyard, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $170. Heavy Bottle (672g; 23.6oz). Under cork. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Inky dark. A lovely blackberry compote on the nose with violet and a hint of spice. More reserved than the 2021, but more expressive than the 2014. Wonderful balance of fruit and acidity with silky tannins and a chalky finish. Outstanding. 95 Points.

2021 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Tomahawk Vineyard, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $170. Heavy Bottle (679g; 23.9oz). Under cork. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Whoa. Beautiful dark fruit with plum and blackberry. Yowza. Floral and powerful. On the palate whoa. Silky smooth and yet also powerful this is, in my mind, what Napa cab should be. All in unison and gorgeous. Extraordinary. 97 Points.

So another wine dinner with Chimney Rock in the books, but this second event seemed like much more than a “coincidence”. Regardless, here’s hoping that it becomes a pattern!