A New Focus with Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards

This week, I am taking a bit of a departure from my semi-regular “Random Samples” post and focusing on just one producer. Last week, I had a Zoom call with Julie Pedroncelli, the third-generation head of the eponymous winery. I will certainly have more on that conversation soon, in which we talked about some of the big changes happening at Pedroncelli and we also discussed many of the winery’s new releases.

So more to come.

In preparation, I had to taste through some of the previously released wines that were sent to me just a few months ago, many of which are still available both through the winery and from various retail outlets across the country.

2023 Pedroncelli Sauvignon Blanc Giovanni & Giulia, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $22. Very Responsible Bottle (477g; 16.8oz). Under screw cap. Giovanni and Gulia Pedroncelli were the founders of the winery, which they bought during Prohibition. The winemaker at Pedroncelli, Montse Reece, harvests half the Sauvignon Blanc to maintain the grassy, tart characteristics of Sauvignon Blanc and then, about a week later, harvests the rest of the Sauvignon crop, a bit riper, which had now developed the tropical, rounder aspects that Sauvignon Blanc can also exhibit. The result is a harmonious combination of these two faces of Sauvignon. Tart, grassy, with both green apple and mango, zingy on the tongue, but a bit rounder on the mid-palate, this is a fantastic blend of contrast. Excellent. 91 Points.

2021 Pedroncelli Sonoma Classico, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $24. Very Heavy Bottle (702g; 24.7oz). “A proprietary blend of Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah, Zinfandel, Tinta Madeira and Souzao.” While I would not call this a “kitchen sink” blend (due to some perhaps negative connotations), this is certainly a blend of some fantastic estate fruit from Pedroncelli. My wife called this the “perfect mid-week wine” and it would be hard to disagree. Red and black fruit on the nose with touches of earth, oak (subtle), and an herbal aspect that really works. The palate is racy and exciting with oodles of fruit, a zingy acidity, and a welcoming demeanor that is, well, rare these days. Pull up a pizza, a roast chicken, or a fireplace and go to town here. Fantastic. Excellent. 92 Points.

2021 Pedroncelli Mother Clone Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $24. Very Heavy Bottle (712g; 25oz). Under cork. 90% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah. 12 months in American Oak barrels, 30% new. A few years ago, Pedroncelli shifted course; they commissioned new labels, spruced up the winery and tasting room, and developed a long-term plan. Evidently, part of the plan was to increase the bottle weights across the board. How disappointing. There are some out there, apparently, that still think the American consumer is easily swayed by the “heavy bottle trick”. No one, as far as I can tell (other than producers, apparently), give a hoot about how heavy the bottle is. What consumers care about is two-fold: is the wine good and how much does it cost? Period. And it is too bad that I had to go on yet another bottle-weight rant since this wine is quite good, excellent even. Dark in the glass (thank you Petite Sirah) with really good dark berry fruit, a touch of black earth, a subtle herbal aspect (sage, basil), and just a touch of black pepper. The palate is juicy and fun with plenty of fruit, a nice zing, and enough grip to suggest some age ahead of it. I have been telling the fine folks at Pedroncelli that their prices were too low and it seems as though they have finally listened (the price went from $18 to $24, but is still too low given the quality, in my opinion). Now they are going to hear it from me about bottle weight. I hope that does not take as long to change. Excellent. 91 Points.

2021 Pedroncelli Brother’s Mark Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $24. Very Heavy Bottle (702g; 24.7oz). 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot. Under cork. 12 months in French Oak barrels, 30% new. Another stalwart in the Pedroncelli line and another classic Dry Creek wine (and another heavy bottle). Medium to dark color with plenty of dark fruit on the nose: cassis, plum, and a touch of black raspberry. The palate is quite fruity as well, with many of those same flavors along with a rather pronounced herbal aspect (basil, thyme), which I really like in a Cabernet and I think is a bit of a “tell” for Dry Creek. And that is a good thing. Very Good. 89 Points.

2021 Pedroncelli Zinfandel, Bushnell Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $40. Heavy Bottle (645g; 22.7oz). 100% Zinfandel. Under cork. Over the course of the last dozen years writing my blog, I have made some pretty good friends in the wine business (I would classify a “pretty good friend” as someone I would invite to my wedding) and Julie and Ed St. John/Pedroncelli would certainly be on that list. Julie is delightful and Ed is a pain in the rear (in a good way, if that is possible), but there are few on the planet that I would rather invite to dinner. Solid folk. Having said all of that, they know that when assessing Pedroncelli wines, I am going to give an honest assessment. As I mentioned in other notes, the bottles are weigh (sorry) too heavy. But. The wine? Fantastic. As one would expect from a Dry Creek Valley Zin, the fruit is bubbling over: tons of black and blue fruit (black cherry, cassis, plum, blueberry). There is also considerable earth and zing, serving as a solid counterbalance to all of that fruit. Yowza. The lengthy finish just adds to the allure. The only downside? This is not a wine to cellar for all that long, but who cares? It is so delicious now! Outstanding. 93 Points.

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Dry Creek Valley, Merlot, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Souzao, Syrah, Wine, Zinfandel and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to A New Focus with Pedroncelli Winery & Vineyards

  1. Betsy Nachbaur's avatar Betsy Nachbaur says:

    Nice piece, about a fav winery. Love their new wines & labels. Agree v/v heavy glass.

    Betsy Nachbaur

    Cell: 415-990-7096

    Like

  2. Ed St. John's avatar Ed St. John says:

    From one “Pain in the Rear” to another, thanks for the kind words Jeff. Do some curls with the bottles, it’ll keep you occupied.

    Like

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