Particularly over the last half-dozen-plus years, I think it is safe to say that I have written more about Tongue Dancer Wines than any other single brand. There are, of course, many reasons for that, not the least of which are the fantastic wines that they produce every vintage.

This week, there were more reasons to celebrate: I had several wines lined up to sample and there was some incredibly good news coming from the TDW camp. James and Kerry MacPhail, the dynamic duo that is Tongue Dancer Wines, had decided to buy back MacPhail Family Wines, their original foray into winery ownership.

Hopefully, in the coming months, I will have more information on this transaction and why it is a big deal and a really exciting development for the MacPhails. But for now, as I did the other day via text, I just want to congratulate them for bringing the brand “back home”.

In the title above, I teased that there was also some bad news involved. Well, it is bad news for me, at least. I am planning to have my annual Pinot Noir tasting in Sonoma County this year and I was looking forward to catching up with the MacPhails (and to help them unlock the joys of Gochujang). But alas, they will both be out of town when I plan on being there. Bad news as it has been a minute.

Fortunately, I had a number of Tongue Dancer Wines to try this week to soften the blow:

2022 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Irwin Lane, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $49. Heavy Bottle (623g; 21.9oz). Under cork. Whoa. Before I get into the wine itself (OK, I can’t wait; it’s fantastic!), I remain more than a bit confused by the vineyard: are there two wines in the portfolio (Pratt Vineyard and Pratt Vineyard, Irwin Lane)? Or is there just one: Pratt Vineyard? Despite my attempts at clarification, I am just not sure or maybe just not that smart (that seems to be going around, lately). OK. Whatever. Who cares? This is on the verge of life-changing. Fairly light in color, more of a pale straw than yellow with a rather demure nose of lemon curd and oak. The palate, however, is far from reserved as this is a rich wine with lovely lemon meringue, a lively zinginess, and a finish that most wines can only fancy. I have had a ton of Tongue Dancer wines now, and they continue to impress, particularly the Chardonnays. Whoa. Outstanding. 95 Points.

2022 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Magnolia Montrachet, Dry Creek Valley, CA : Retail $59. Heavy Bottle (626g; 22.0oz). Under cork. OK, I will be frank: when I saw “Montrachet” on the label, I did a bit of a double take. Don’t get me wrong, James MacPhail is a brilliant winemaker and I consider his Chardonnays at the apogee of American wine. Seriously. I do.

But.

When you evoke “Montrachet”, the undisputed champion of world white wine, I tend to pause. Some of the most magical wines I have ever tasted have had “Montrachet” added to the name. Well, add another. I see this as a combination of Montrachet (Chassagne-Montrachet, specifically) and Grand Cru Chablis.

Now that is a heady contention, but I stand by it. Light in color, and a bit shy initially, with lemon curd and minerality coming through after a bit of coaxing. Whoa. The palate is certainly demure, particularly straight out of the bottle, but as it warmed (slightly), the aromas intensified (with a slight hint of buttered popcorn), and some ripe green apple emerged. The palate? Off the charts. Again, “demure” with plenty of fruit but held in check by the tartness and mineral aspects. Fantastic. But the most amazing aspect of this wine is the finish; deep, rich, tart, and lengthy, this wine firmly gets a “holy cow” and yet another whoa. Outstanding. 96 Points.

2022 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $55. Heavy Bottle (622g; 21.9oz). Under cork. Whoa. This is now the seventh vintage of this wine that I have reviewed and I am as smitten as ever. I spend a lot of time in this space challenging James MacPhail. My contention is that while his Pinots are fantastic, his Chardonnays are even a step above. But. This Pinot challenges that assertion. Shy initially, to the point that I decided to give it a brief decant. Good choice (I have to admit I love it when I am right). Incredible fruit on the nose: great red fruit (cherry, pomegranate, even some red plum), a touch of spice, and a hint of basil. Whoa. The palate is even better with all that fruit, a touch of earth and spice, and a zingy tartness that really brings it all together. Holy cow. This wine helped make a certain debate more than palatable. Outstanding. 95 Points.

2022 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir Foxtrot, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $40. Heavy bottle (627g; 22.1oz). Under cork. I hesitate to think how many bottles of Tongue Dancer I have opened (hint: it’s a lot) but there is one wine out of the dozen or so different SKUs that I have sampled/tasted/drunk/slammed that gives me more pause: the Foxtrot. Why? While most (all?) Tongue Dancer Wines are opulent, sexy, and fantasmagorical, the Foxtrot seems to be a deviation. Might it be James MacPhail’s no-holds-barred addition to the Pinot-sphere? Or might it be Kerry MacPhail’s Freudian Id? That is a question I am not entirely sure I want answered. This wine? Whoa. Yeah, the fruit is not hiding, is not shy, and certainly not an afterthought; it is upfront and in your face with not a single apology to be found. Dark in color with plenty of forest floor, blackberry, and pepper to keep the brooding aesthetics company. The palate is a fruity delight with tons of blackberry, touches of vanilla and wood, a zingy tartness that maintains its dominance throughout, and a subtle spice that makes you want to think this is a Syrah (but you know darned well it isn’t). Yeah. And Whoa. This is much more your drunk cousin than it is your demure aunt, but that is OK, every wedding needs someone to be the first on the dance floor! Outstanding. 93 Points.