As many of you know, I was once a cycle tour guide in Europe (which was the genesis of this blog). The company where I worked for all those years, Blue Marble Travel, has shaped my life in countless ways but sadly no longer exists. A few of weeks ago, I was back in France, riding one of those Blue Marble routes, but not as a guide; this time I was riding solo.

After yesterday’s long ride of 75 miles (120k), today was a relative piece of cake at just under 40 miles (64k). But there was some climbing to be done; the first two thirds of the ride was all up, first as a false flat (it looked flat but actually gaining in altitude), and then a legitimate climb of over 6 miles (10k+) at roughly 6% incline.

As I mentioned previously in this series, I was never a great climber, but I used to be at least halfway decent at it. That was a good thirty plus ago (in both years and pounds), however and my plan to “get in shape” before this trip never quite materialized.

Today’s finish town, Saint Geniez d’Olt, is the last of a handful of quaint tiny towns in this part of France, rarely visited by foreigners and almost never by Americans. My kind of region. The first of the five, Entraygues-sur-Truyère, where I spent the night and thus the starting point, is Languedoc (langue d’Oc, or the language of Oc, i.e., Occitan, the local dialect which is still spoken by some; aren’t you glad you asked?) for entre-les-eaux (“between the waters”) as it sits at the confluence of the Lot and Truyère rivers.

Entraygues-sur-Truyère is not a large town by anyone’s definition (except, perhaps the locals?) but it is worthy of a 15-30 minute stroll, which I performed upon arrival the day before. So I was ready and raring to go in the morning. But. It was cold. Now, I realize that my definition of “cold” has certainly shifted since I moved from Philadelphia to Houston over eight years ago now, but even when I lived in Philly, I certainly considered 45°F (7°C) to be on the “nippy” side but now? Yeah, I consider that pretty much “freezing”.

Thus, I waited as long as I could before I set out and by 11:00am, the mercury had “climbed” all the up to 52°F (11°C). Close enough, I guess?

I had brought minimal “cold weather” gear with me and I am not going to lie, it was pretty darned cold heading out. But. I like to think (or at least convince my boys) that I am “tough” so I soldiered on. What other choice did I have?

It was a relatively “short” ride, but given my somewhat late start, I planned to stop for lunch in Estaing, a mere 10 miles (16k) into the ride and the second of the five “quaint” towns along the route.

There was not a whole lot to Entraygues, but the town centered on the lovely bridge (my hotel was just to the left) across the Lot river, which I would follow most of the day.

Even though the trip was short, I would be stopping quite a bit for photos. This was the first: the Del Dol Chapel above the Lot. The legend of the Chapel is a bit tragic, but the site is amazing.

The door to the chapel was lock, unfortunately…but I love doors.

Next was the tiny village of Estaing (home of former French president Giscard d’Estaing), my lunch stop.

Lunch for me was a nice piece of durade (sea bream) and my first aligot, a tasty, cheesy, mashed potato-esque local specialty (in the red pot).

After lunch, it was on to Espaillon and another castle over the Lot.

Then it was on to Saint-Côme-d’Olt where I stopped by the church in the center of town. There was a funeral taking place, so I didn’t go in. I figured he (or she) would have wanted it that way.

The views of the Lot were amazing all day.

I survived the climb (barely) and stopped in Sainte-Eulalie for a few photos.

Onto Saint-Geniez and it’s covered gallery in the center of town.

I have mentioned my affinity for doors, but I also love a good staircase.

That’s all for this leg of the trip, back again next week with more!