As many of you know, I was once a cycle tour guide in Europe (which was the genesis of this blog). The company where I worked for all those years, Blue Marble Travel, has shaped my life in countless ways but sadly no longer exists. A few of weeks ago, I was back in France, riding one of those Blue Marble routes, but not as a guide; this time I was riding solo.

While the first few days of the trip had been fantastic, today marks the first of three successive days that would define the trip. The day includes a bit of climbing and culminates with a descent into the Gorges du Tarn, what many people have described as “France’s Grand Canyon”.

The day includes two significant (at least for my old, fat body) climbs, the first starting just past the “town” (don’t blink!) of Pomayrols and lasting almost a full five miles. The second is far more daunting, it starts right before La Canourgue, the halfway point of the ride and my planned lunch stop. While it is only “steep” for about a mile, the climb lasts for every bit of nine miles and represents about a year of elevation gain in Houston.

At the top of the climb is the Causse de Sauveterre, one of several Causses in this part of France. The causses are “haunting, windswept, desolate plateaux, used for sheep farming when they are used for anything, but most often absolutely wild.”

All the climbing has a big payoff, the last eight kilometers (five miles) is a pretty fantastic descent into the Gorges du Tarn, one of the more spectacular natural regions of France. Nestled at the bottom of the Gorges is today’s destination, the tiny town of Sainte Enimie. If the natural setting were not enough, the town has a spectacular medieval center, by no means “large” but wonderfully preserved.

Despite all my wishes to the contrary, it is another chilly (at least for my now Texas-accustomed body) morning: 10°C (50°F). Yowza.

While the ride lacked many real “towns” the route was dotted with several farmhouses.

I tried to eat salads for lunch on the trip, but I couldn’t pass on the meal of the day in La Camourgue: a pork chop “à la diable” (devil-style). The waitress warned me that it was “très piquant” (very spicy). Bless her heart. I have had ketchup that was spicier than this.

The photos don’t do it justice; the Gorges du Tarn is breathtaking.

Tiny Saint-Chely-du-Tarn which I will visit tomorrow.

The Lot River, lazily snaking its way through Sainte Enimie.

It is by no means “big” but I wandered the medieval section of Sainte Enimie for a while.

The 13th(?) Century church in Sainte Enimie.

I love doors.

Dinner here often means duck. I happily oblige.

That’s all for this leg of the trip, back again next week with more!