As many of you know, I was once a cycle tour guide in Europe (which was the genesis of this blog). The company where I worked for all those years, Blue Marble Travel, has shaped my life in countless ways but sadly no longer exists. A couple months ago, I was back in France, riding one of those Blue Marble routes, but not as a guide; this time I was riding solo.

Arriving in Nîmes the day before, the weather was a bit foreboding with gloomy skies and intermittent rain, I was tempted to just curl up in my hotel room for a little down time and recovery after a pretty arduous week on the bike (over 300 miles covered in the preceding seven days).

That is not the way I am wired, though, so despite the soggy conditions, I did my best to visit the city a bit, one that I had not visited for close to twenty years. I ended spending quite a bit of time at the Roman amphitheater in the center of town, one of the best preserved in the world and certainly the finest outside of Italy.

After checking into the hotel (and with the rain subsiding), I headed to the center of town and the Roman Amphitheater.

As impressive as the exterior was, the galleries on the interior were stunning (I have no idea who these people are, but I did not want to wait for a “clean shot”).

I tried to imagine myself Russel Crowe.

Even though the clouds were ominous, I pressed on buoyed by the day pass that I had purchased at the amphitheater, and headed for La Maison Carrée, a short ten minute walk away. Touted as one of the best preserved Roman temples outside of, wait for it, Italy.

Approaching from the rear, La Maison Carrée is not large, nor particularly striking, I guess, but it is over 2,000 years old, so there is that.

Walking around to the front, I was a bit taken aback by the young couple, seated between two columns, who seemed determined to suck one another’s face completely off. Oh, France, sometimes you are soooo cliché.

The front of the structure is much more impressive, verging on imposing.

While the interior of the temple could not have been more nondescript, the ceiling above the entrance was beautiful.

On the way back to the hotel, I ducked into the town’s cathedral. Even though I am for from “religious” I do enjoy gothic architecture.

Having seen some of the sites that the city had to offer, I then headed back to a wine bar that I had passed along the way. I realize that it was now my turn to be a bit cliché, but I did not care, I was thirsty.

My choice, which was both attractive in appearance and lauded by the online geniuses, was the Gard Ô Vins, about equidistant between the amphitheater, La Maison Carrée, and my hotel. Perfect.

2023 Château l’Ermite d’Auzan Sainte Cecile Rosé, Costières-de-Nîmes, Rhône Valley, France: Gard Ô Vins. Nîmes, France. Château l’Ermite d’Auzan “Sainte Cécile” Rosé de Mourvèdre, Costières de Nîmes: 6€ (glass). Dark, even close to a red with tons of fruit but also loads of body. Spicy and racy. It was great cold but improved as it warmed. But honestly, I couldn’t wait that long, it was so delicious. Outstanding. 93 Points. 

2022 Château l’Ermite d’Auzan Sainte Cecile Blanc, Costières-de-Nîmes, Rhône Valley, France: Gard Ô Vins. Nîmes, France. Château l’Ermite d’Auzan “Sainte Cécile” Blanc. Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne. Since I loved the first, I decided to stay with the same producer. Good choice. Served too cold once again, but this is also fruity and bursting with flavor. A classic Rhône style blend with plenty of spunk and a killer finish. Excellent. 91 Points.

While both wines were tasty and the menu seemed inviting, the service at the wine bar was, well, horrible (insert another French cliché here). Thus, I decided to take my business elsewhere.

I opted for a “natural” wine bar about a five minute walk away. I put “natural” in quotes for a coulple of reasons, including to highlight the controversy that “natural” wines has caused in a relatively short period of time. The dinner and the wine were both superb and my server was both attentive and delightful.

I love deviled eggs. Love.

2023 Domaine Yoan Rega Vin de France Le Bonbec Rosé, Natural Vin de Gard IGP, France: Restaurant 32€. “75% presse directe de Syrah, 25% Saignée de Merlot-Grenache; 15% de Grenache en macération carbonique.” OK. A lot going on here. I wandered into a natural wine bar (which is a topic unto itself) and asked the server what I should try. We eventually settled on this. She said it was a saignée, the website said it was 25% saignée (Merlot and Grenache) and 75% True Rosé Syrah. Fine, whatever. And it’s “natural” which every other wine is as well, but that has turned into a political discussion, so I will leave that one alone. As for the wine? A bit funky, for sure, but with good, ripe fruit, plenty of heft, and enough acidity to hold it all together. Not my style of rosé; I would certainly classify it as “rustic” but it is quite good, and I am entirely happy with the suggestion and my purchase. Bravo. Excellent. 91 Points.

That’s all for this leg of the trip, back again next week with more!