Beaujolais has long struggled in the shadow of its more famous, more respected, and perhaps more “mainstream” northern neighbor, Burgundy. Technically (and legally) Beaujolais is actually a part of Burgundy as was made clear by several court decrees in the 1930s and 40s. But. While it is technically a part of Burgundy (and Beaujolais winemakers can include “Burgundy” or “Bourgogne” legally on their labels), it is largely seen as a second-class citizen, at best (I was going to say “red-headed stepchild” but…).
This is not a new thing. At all. Way back in 1395 (yes, the late 14th Century), Philip the Bold, the Duke of Burgundy at the time, banned the use of Gamay in the Duchy of Bougogne. Among the reasons? Philip described the grape as “vil et déloyal” (“vile and disloyal”) for reasons that are not entirely clear (I would add as an aside that inbreeding was common among the royals at the time in France).
Thus, all the vines of Gamay in what we now know as “Burgundy” were ripped out, never to return. Obviously, the story does not end there. Luckily, for Gamay, it is a high-yielding, relatively easy-to-grow variety, and it soon set up shop, so to speak, immediately to the south in Beaujolais.
The wines of Beaujolais have developed a reputation for being fruity, easy-drinking reds, which is only furthered by the promotion of Beaujolais Nouveau wines in the Fall. Beaujolais Nouveau, a wine meant to be consumed almost immediately after release, helped save the region as it faced relative obscurity in the mid-20th Century. Unfortunately, it has also served to undercut the more serious wines in the region, many of which are complex, thoughtful wines that can age beautifully for many years.
Today, however, Beaujolais has become, in some respects, the hipster region of the French wine world. While getting started in winemaking in France these days is next to impossible without a healthy bank account, vineyards are still relatively “affordable” in Beaujolais. Each of the three wines below was produced by this “new wave” of Beaujolais producers; all relatively young and having set up “shop” in the last dozen years or so.
2022 Bonnet-Cotton, 100% Cotton, Côte de Brouilly, Beaujolais, France: Retail $45. Heavy Bottle (). 100% Gamay. Of the ten Beaujolais Crus, Côte de Brouilly is one of the smallest and, as a result, rarely finds itself in this country. I am glad that this Bonnet-Cotton made its way, though, as it represents, at least for me, the best of Beaujolais. This is a wine that is meant to be consumed among friends and family, perhaps at the dinner table. It is not overly complicated, but has sufficient complexity to add intrigue if one so desires. The nose is loaded with fruit, a touch of wood, an ounce of earth, and a hint of flower (red rose). The palate is structured and refined, and much more elegant than most of the Carbonic Maceration wines that I have tried. Good acidity and depth, this is certainly a good representative of the region, both broadly (Beaujolais) and narrowly (Côte de Brouilly). Excellent. 91 Points.
2023 Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie Les Cocottes, Beaujolais, France: Retail $39. Responsible Bottle (525g; 18.5oz). Under cork. 100% Gamay, 100% Carbonic Maceration. Another relative newcomer to Beaujolais, Anne-Sophie Dubois was born in Champagne and trained in Burgundy, but like so many, found a home in Beaujolais. While most of her wines are made using the standard fermentation method, she decided to use carbonic maceration for this Fleurie, the more traditional process in the region. Fruity, mostly red berry and some plum, with hints of earth, and just the slightest bubblegum thing going on. The palate is fruity and fun, on the rich side, at least for Beaujolais, with a nice acidity, and a lengthy finish. Outstanding. 93 Points.
2022 Antoine Sunier Régnié, Beaujolais, France: Retail $28. Responsible Bottle (513g; 18.1oz). 100% Gamay. Antoine Sunier purchased a modest facility and a couple of acres of vines (0.8 hectares) in 2014. The vines had 45 years on them already, had been organically farmed, and were relatively healthy so 2014 also marked the debut vintage of his eponymous wines. This Régnié (one of the, at least for now, 10 Cru villages of Beaujolais) is whole cluster fermented, using the carbonic method. It opens with a fruity nose of blackberry and raspberry with only a hint of the characteristic “bubble gum” that many associate with the method and the region. The palate is fruity as well, but also rustic (in a good way) with some earth, a hint of wood, and a zappy acidity. Quite juicy and delicious, this is a wonderful quaff that would pair quite nicely with some roast chicken. Excellent. 90 Points.
the drunken cyclist 
Philip the Bold’s vendetta against Gamay probably started during a bad hangover following a night he did may regrettable things. 🙂
LikeLike