The Random Samples—5/2/2025

It is time for another edition of “Random Samples”–I occasionally get samples from marketing agencies and/or producers. These can often be grouped together into some sort of over-arching theme: Drink Them and It Will ComeSummer is Here, So That Means (More) Rosé, If It Doesn’t Sparkle, It Doesn’t Matter.

Other times, I get just a bottle or two that do not have any apparent connection or link. Instead of holding on to those bottles until the “right” combination comes along, I decided to link all these “random” bottles together, making their own category (and, being the math geek that I am, “random sample” has a bit of a double entendre).

2020 The Calling Chardonnay Sullivan Vineyard Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $55. Stupidly Heavy Bottle (904g; 31.8oz). Under cork. 100% Chardonnay. Made by James MacPhail for The Calling. While I would consider James MacPhail a friend, he knows (I think) that I am always going to be as impartial as possible when reviewing his wines. Having said that? I really like this wine. Sure, it is on the big side of Chardonnay, even falling into the “traditional California Chardonnay” category. But that’s OK. There is a reason that this style is “traditional” and that is because a sheet-ton was sold over the years. Tropical and citrus abound in the glass with plenty of butter and a definite oak presence (17 months, 100% French, 25% new), this does harken back to another time, and I completely dig it. Excellent. 91 Points.

2022 Domaine Serene Coeur Blanc, Dundee Hills, CA: Retail $105. Obscenely Heavy Bottle (1021g; 35.9oz). Under Cork. 100% Pinot Noir. While White Pinot Noir is far from a “thing” it seems to be more prevalent in the Willamette Valley than anywhere else. And this just might be the best that I have tried. Don’t get me wrong, this is a really stupid bottle and it made me want to hate the wine from the jump. But. The wine is good. Really good. Even really, really good. Sure, there is oak (100% oak fermentation), but there is nothing inherently wrong with that, as long as it is used in moderation. And while this pushes the concept of “moderation”, this is Outstanding. In addition to the oak, there is lemon curd, a mineral aspect, white acacia flower, and a hint of white peach on the nose. The palate, while certainly “Chard-like” has a bit more heft with some subtle red berry fruit (under-ripe cherry) with the aforementioned attributes, a brilliant tartness, and a lengthy finish. While $105 is a hefty tariff, this makes one contemplate plopping down the cash while struggling to lift the bottle. Outstanding. 94 Points.

NV Spellbound Wines Prosecco Incantato, Veneto, Italy: Retail $15. Responsible Bottle (595g; 20.9oz). 85% Glera, 15% Pinot Noir/Chardonnay. I’ll be honest. I don’t drink much DOC Prosecco anymore. If I do venture into the wines of the region, I almost always opt for bubbles from the DOCG, wines typically of much higher quality but only moderately higher in price (~$10 more a bottle). This Spellbound, however, is quite nice and can be found on the shelf for around twelve bucks. Straw in the glass with plenty of tree fruit aromas (pear and apple) along with a slight floral aspect. The palate introduces a citrus component (mostly lemon rind), a subtle acidity, and a fervent sparkle. As with most DOC Prosecco’s, however, I find the dosage a bit heavy-handed here and while it does not come off as sweet in any way, I think the wine would show better with a zestier zing. Very Good. 88 Points.

2023 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Magnolia Montrachet, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $59. Heavy Bottle (624g; 22.0oz). Under Cork. The knowledgeable one, Kerry MacPhail, sent me this and a bottle of the 2022 to decide which one I wanted to include in a tasting I am conducting in Dallas next week. I had tasted the ’22 previously (and loved it: 96 Points), and this wine is really close in flavors and aromas to its slightly older sibling. But. The nose out of the bottle is more expressive with green apple, lime, and maybe a touch of pineapple. The palate is simply magical with plenty of the aforementioned fruit, a tantalizing minerality, and oodles of acidity. But. There is also a deeper richness here, a creaminess that verges on intense. Younger siblings often try their hardest to show up their older brethren, but often fail. This does not. At. All. It soars. Outstanding Plus. 97 Points.

2023 Troon Vineyard Vermentino, Applegate Valley, OR: Retail $35. Very Responsible Bottle (467g; 16.4oz). Under DIAM. Pale, even quite pale in the glass, light straw, perhaps, with oodles of fruit on the nose, predominantly tree and citrus (fresh pear, grapefruit, lemon, lime, and even a touch of peach). There is also a distinct white flower aspect that is slightly reminiscent of Viognier. The palate is juicy, layered, and pretty complex, which is a departure from many of the Vermentinos I have tried. Great acidity, balance, and more than a handful of verve, to me, this represents the absolute best of Troon; the wine seems alive and vibrant, bright and happy. And it makes me happy to be able to enjoy it. Outstanding. 93 Points.

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Applegate Valley, California, Chardonnay, Dry Creek Valley, Dundee Hills, Glera, Oregon, Pinot Noir, Prosecco, Russian River Valley, Sparkling Wine, Vermentino, Willamette Valley, Wine and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

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