A Memorable Week in Umbria: Exploring Vineyards and Hidden Gems

As some of you know, I recently returned from three weeks in Italy. I was invited by a few friends to spend some time at a villa in the hills of Umbria, not far from the border with Tuscany, and I agreed (of course). Here are the next few photos from that week at “the villa” which included exploring several towns in Umbria and Tuscany.

Tuesday was a day in the vineyards as we loaded up a few cars and headed for Montefalco, home to Sagrantino, a wine grape that usually produces big, powerful wines that are loaded with tannins and need considerable time before they are even approachable.

The first stop was La Ciamate, now run by third-generation winemaker Paolo Bartoloni, who has a more modern approach to both the wine business and Sagrantino.

Paolo is not just a handsome man, his wines are fantastic and he has elevated Le Cimate considerable since he took the helm.

While Le Cimate’s Sagrantinos were probably the best wines of the variety that I have tried, his Trebbiano wines were even better.

This is what happens when you take a bunch of wine geeks to a winery: they wander off into the vineyard.

Next stop was the iconic producer Paolo Bea and I will get this out of the way: I was not a fan. Big, tannic, and full of intense power. I found them on the verge of undrinkable. But the winery itself was incredible.

The whole group (minus me, of course).

The following day (Wednesday) was market day in Umbertide, the closest town to our villa, about a twenty minute drive.

I erroneously thought these chickens were being sold for their egg-making ability. Sorry guys, your days are numbered.

Why can’t we have markets like this?

In the afternoon, while the rest of the clan were relaxing by the pool, I decided to hop on my bike and head to the village of Pietralunga which had a quaint church…

…and a killer view of the valley.

And I made it back to Umbertide in plenty of time to handle what was happening next.

That evening, as I was preparing some bruschetta for the group before dinner, I heard someone crying outside. So I did what any normal person would do, I grabbed my phone to take some pictures…

…because I had a felling this was happening.

Even though everyone thought this might happen, it really came as a wonderful surprise.

And it gave the proud dad plenty to toast at dinner that night.

The following day, we all headed to Cortina, a beautiful Tuscan town that has been the sight of a few popular movies, which resulted in a ton of tourists.

But I snuck off in search of small churches…

…stunning views of the valley…

…and doors. I love doors.

That night, despite an unfortunate run=in with a rose bush…

…I was still able to catch another beautiful sunset (and drink a glass of wine or two)/

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
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