There was a time, not too long ago, when I would go to wine country whenever I could and I would pack my days full of appointments both at new (to me) wineries and old (relatively) friends, places I had discovered and were certainly worth revisiting.

Not anymore.

The reason is difficult to pinpoint, but I think it is safe to say that I have changed (at least a little) and

When I first started visiting wineries and, several years later, writing about them, there were myriad compelling stories to hear and, subsequently, share. Stories of “everyday” kind of people starting a winery simply based on their particular love of it. Other tales of wineries passed from one generation to the next, of parents instilling in their offspring a love of the land and of the grape.

The days of the intrepid trailblazer, the penniless dreamer, or the brilliant (but slightly crazy) renegade forging forward into the world of wine production might, I fear, soon be behind us.

I could go on, but I won’t since those stories, while still out there, are becoming rare, more of an anomaly than mainstream. Today, it seems, at least to me, that a winery’s “story” is that of a former CEO, a hedge-fund manager, or a wealthy celebrity that “always dreamed of owning a vineyard”.

Yawn.

Sure, some perhaps fall into that category that I still find appealing. Doubleback Winery (Walla Walla), Rodney Strong (Sonoma County), or Crocker & Starr (Napa Valley), but my current bias is clear. When I hear “When Mr. X grew tired of the corporate world, he decided to move to (fill in the blank) and open his/her/their dream winery…” I tune out.

Sure, it’s perhaps a compelling story for them, but for me? It is becoming cliché.

Yawn.

That’s why when I was out in the Willamette Valley this past spring touring potential colleges with my son, I visited just a few wineries, either old friends or “new” (to me) producers with potentially compelling stories.

The first of those was Brooks Wines. I was introduced to Brooks back in 2017 and to say they have a compelling story is an understatement. I knew that my friend and Brooks CEO, Janie Brooks, would not be there, but the need to stop in was palpable. I was rewarded with the opportunity to taste through most of the current releases.

2022 Brooks Estate Riesling, Eola – Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, OR: $40. From vines that were planted in 1974 and are own-rooted. Golden delicious apple with a hint of petrol on the nose, weighty and full on the palate, comes off as completely dry but has 7g residual sugar. The brilliant acidity holds it all together and then some. This is just stellar. Outstanding. 95 Points. 

(A picture from a previous visit, hence the 2023 vintage.)2024 Brooks Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley, OR: $32. Only 800 cases. Bright, lovely fruit (tons of green apple and minerality) on both the nose and the palate. Round and fruity with the acid coming through on the finish. Having lived in Alsace for a year, I have a soft spot for the variety that does not get enough credit. Nice. Excellent. 91 Points.

2022 Brooks Ara Riesling, Willamette Valley, OR: $40. A blend of Brooks Estate and Yamhill Vineyard, the first two Riesling Vineyards Jimi worked and one of the first Rieslings he ever produced, back in 1998. Jimi studied ancient mythology and named this wine after the constellation Ara, which represents the altar where the gods swore an oath before battling the Titans. A sweet nose of ripe red delicious apple, a bit of caramel and citrus. Bright and luscious on the palate with a fantastic lemon zing and a killer finish. Outstanding. 94 Points. 

2023 Brooks Janus Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, OR: $58. The first Pinot made by founder Jimi Brooks and now the winery’s flagship wine, it is a blend of Willamette Valley grapes but the 2023 is almost 80% Eola -Amity fruit. Named after the Roman god of beginnings, endings and balance (among others). Lovely dark cherry and a hint of vanilla on the nose that travels to the palate along with brilliant acidity and verve. Outstanding. 93 Points. 

2022 Brooks Pinot Noir, Crannell Vineyard, Eola – Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, OR: $60. From just below the Brooks Estate Vineyard, planted in 1984 and only 300 cases made. From four clones (Pommard, 115, 667, 777). Beautiful nose of Bing cherry with a touch of earth with hints of oak and vanilla. Bright and cheery with subtle fruit and a ringing zinginess. Excellent. 92 Points. 

2022 Brooks Rastaban Pinot Noir, Eola – Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, OR: $60. Another wine first made by Jimi and from the Estate vineyard, Rastaban is the star that is the eye of the dragon in the Draco constellation. A bit darker red fruit here, think raspberry and maybe even a hint of blueberry. Whoa. Rich without being cloying, bright without being aggressive; just impeccably balanced and loaded with layers and complexity. Yowza. Outstanding. 96 Points. 

2022 Brooks Pinot Noir, Temperance Hill Vineyard, Eola – Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, OR: $68. First planted in 1981, certified organic vineyard. The 2022 vintage in Temperance Hill produced fruit with thicker skins, thus resulting in darker color and more tannins. Darker fruit on the nose and palate, black raspberry and black cherry. Nice weight and balance with some silky tannins on the very end. Fantastic. Outstanding. 94 Points. 

2022 Brooks Pinot Noir, Sunny Mountain Vineyard, Lower Long-Tom AVA, Willamette Valley, OR: $60. Only the second year of the AVA. Bright. A bit spicy. Windy vineyard. Really nice fruit on the palate. Luscious even. The fruit is really the story, though. Pretty remarkable. Outstanding. 95 Points.

After the tasting, I had lunch at the winery–the food, like the wines, is fantastic.