Exploring Some of Victoria’s Best Affordable Wines

A couple of months ago, I once again had a Zoom tasting with several producers from Victoria, Australia. I now have had several encounters with producers from the region and even though I have never visited the region, I can safely say that Victoria is producing some fabulous wines and are generally quite affordable.

This most recent tasting only underscored both assertions and cemented the notion that I need to find my way down there at some point.

NV All Saints Estate Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia: Retail $18. From 375ml. Heavy bottle (435g; 15.3oz). 100% Muscat. Dark in color and aromas, almost an amber brown with deep caramel and toasted walnut on the nose. The palate is rich and intense with plenty of both the caramel and walnut that expressed themselves on the nose. There is also a bit of grittiness on the finish that adds both character and intrigue. We do not drink many dessert wines these days, although we did not too long ago. Well-balanced and delightful, this is a solid effort, but what to pair? Maybe a little Tarte Tatin? Excellent. 91 Points.

2021 Best’s Great Western Riesling, Western Victoria, Australia: Retail $25. Responsible Bottle (596g; 21.0oz). Under screw cap. This is another bottle that was sent to me from the fine people of Wines of Victoria for an online tasting a few weeks ago. All of the wines  have been quite good as well as affordable (SRPs have all been under $30). Quite pale in the glass with a slight green tinge. Tons of citrus, mostly lime, on the nose, with honeysuckle, a touch of petrol, and a flinty aspect, a classic Riesling nose. The palate is initially quite tart and comes off as completely dry with loads of lime, some salinity, and a load of zing. Another stellar wine from the region and from Best’s Great Western. Outstanding. 93 Points.

2022 Chalmers Mother Block, Murray Darling, Victoria, Australia: Retail $18. Extremely Responsible Bottle (389g; 13.7oz). Screw cap. 62% Sagrantino, 17% Nero d’Avola, 7% Aglianico, 6% Sangiovese, 5% Uva di Troia, 2% Teroldego, 1% Piedirosso. A kitchen sink kind of blend of Italian grapes from Victoria, Australia. Go figure. Dark and a bit brooding in the glass thanks to all that Sagrantino (a dark, brooding, tannic grape from Umbria), with plenty of dark fruit and a touch of earth. The palate, however, is rather light on its feet (at least when compared to the nose) with plenty of bright acidity and fruit. There are hints of a heavier side, but the tannins are soft and supple on the finish. A fun quaff. Excellent. 91 Points.

2021 Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia: Retail $18. Responsible Bottle (554g; 19.5oz). Under screw cap. I see that this was released near the end of 2023, but I received it as a sample in the Spring. OK. This is labeled as “Pinot Gris”, not “Pinot Grigio” which means there are some stylistic considerations here, and having lived in Alsace, the home of “Pinot Gris”, I am expecting greatness. And this wine largely delivers. Plenty of fruit on the nose with white peach, lemon, and even pineapple, with touches of white acacia flower and some minerality. The palate is fantastic, with all that fruit, a racy tanginess, a noticeable salinity, and even an ounce of chutzpah. This is quite nice; sure, it is a bit understated (which is surprising, at least for me, given the region), but with a slightly warmer temperature (say… 15-18°C or 55-62°F). Tangy, but also rich; salty, but also loaded with fruit. Lovely. Excellent. 91 Points.

2023 Yering Station Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Australia: Retail $35. Responsible Bottle (554g; 19.4oz). Under screw cap. This was another bottle sent to me by the fine folks at Wine Victoria for an online tasting a few weeks ago. At first glance, whiff, and taste, this is at the lighter end of Pinot Noir in style, waaaay down at that end. The nose offers hints of black cherry and raspberry, with red rose and some black earth. The palate is light, but tart, initially, even reaaallly light. But given some air and some time, this develops into a lovely, fruity, but still on the light side, quaff. Perhaps some charcuterie, a cheese board, or even a roast chicken would pair beautifully. Excellent. 90 Points.

2023 Zilzie Sauvignon Blanc, Victoria, Australia: Retail $15. Very Responsible Bottle (418g; 14.7oz). Screw cap. Another wine sent to me by the fine folks from Victoria Wine,  another solid effort and fantastic value. Citrus notes a go-go on both the nose and the palate with plenty of lime zest leading the pack. Quite tart and vivacious from the first sip to the last gulp, this is everything one needs in an easy-drinking Sauvignon Blanc. While there are some similar markers to the Kiwi style, this is much less aggressive and therefore (at least for me) much more approachable and food friendly. Grab a half a case and drink it on the regular this summer. Very Good. 89 Points.

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Aglianico, Muscat, Nero d'Avola, Piedirosso, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Teroldego, Uva di Troia, Wine and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

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