Tasting Notes: Exceptional 2023 Tongue Dancer Wines Reviewed

Way back in 2016, when this site was in its toddler stage (some might claim it still is), I met the dynamic duo of James and Kerry MacPhail. I chronicled that meeting and many more since, and I have now written a whopping 114 tasting notes of Tongue Dancer Wines since that first post in 2016.

That is a pretty scary number, I have to admit, but their wines continue to impress and I have to assert that they are even getting better. A few new cuvées have been introduced, including several Chardonnays, which I continue to attest, are among the best in California.

This past May, Kerry sent me the latest new releases, which once again, cement James as one of Sonoma County’s top winemakers.

2023 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $55. Under cork. Heavy bottle (629g; 22.2oz). This is now the fourth vintage of this wine that I have reviewed and it is likely the best. Brilliant straw in the glass, with plenty of citrus (Key lime and lemon curd) with touches of vanilla, hints of oak, and a vein of salinity that is compelling. Initially, this was too cold; I suggest serving it at closer to cellar temperature as it is then that the flavors and complexity really begin to shine. Fruity, rich, and layered on the palate; silky and voluptuous but also multi-faceted and simply scrumptious. Look, like I said, I have been reviewing Tongue Dancer Wines for a while now and James MacPhail is uber-talented, and his Pinots are world-class. But, as I have said before, his Chardonnays are every bit as good, and getting better. This RRV is Outstanding. 95 Points.

2023 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Magnolia Montrachet, Tolmasoff Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $59. Heavy Bottle (624g; 22.0oz). Under Cork. The only thing better than getting a bottle of Tongue Dancer Wine to review is getting a second bottle of the same wine to review. It is a bit of a long story, but I reviewed this wine back in April, but here we are (happily) again. All of the notes remain constant and here is what I wrote a few months ago: “I had tasted the ’22 previously (and loved it: 96 Points), and this wine is really close in flavors and aromas to its slightly older sibling. But. The nose out of the bottle is more expressive with green apple, lime, and maybe a touch of pineapple. The palate is simply magical with plenty of the aforementioned fruit, a tantalizing minerality, and oodles of acidity. But. There is also a deeper richness here, a creaminess that verges on intense. Younger siblings often try their hardest to show up their older brethren, but often fail. This does not. At. All. It soars. Outstanding Plus. 97 Points.


2023 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay, Pratt Vineyard, Irwin Lane, Russian River Valley, CA:
Retail $49. Heavy Bottle (629g; 22.1oz). Under cork. Few things bring me more joy than receiving a large box from Tongue Dancer Wines. I have been reviewing their wines for almost a decade now, and you would be hard pressed to convince me that there is a better producer of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Sonoma County (I was going to say all of California, but I always shy away from hyperbole). While fifty bucks would not be considered an “everyday wine” by most people, I would contend that this Pratt Vineyard, Irwin Lane Chardonnay is among the best values in Chardonnay today. Brilliant straw in the glass with a stunning nose of Honeycrisp apple, white rose petals, a touch of salinity, and hints of vanilla and hazelnut. There is plenty of fruit on the palate, but it is not the main story here. Nor is the brilliant acidity or even the salty vein that lingers in the background. No, once again, this wine is all about how all the lovely individual components come together in a breathtaking whole. Yes, winemaker James MacPhail can coax beautiful fruit out of the grapes, perhaps like few others, but what sets him apart, in my mind, is how he then tames that fruit to be a component (a very important component) of the larger ensemble. So what makes it such a great value? This wine, while “only” $49, tastes like a wine that could easily fetch three or four times that price. Outstanding. 96 Points.

2023 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay The Sly One, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $59. Heavy Bottle (639g; 22.5oz). Under cork. This is now my second vintage of this wine (I somehow missed the 2022?) and this is right up there with the 2021. Straw to yellow in the glass with plenty of citrus on the nose, with some white flower, and touches of oak and vanilla. The plate is simply glorious with great fruit, brilliant acidity, and that characteristic MacPhail verve. OK. I am the first to admit that I might be biased; I have been enjoying Tongue Dancer Wines for close to a decade now and with every James MacPhail Chardonnay I try, it underscores that he should be on the Mount Rushmore of Sonoma Chard producers. Who else might be on that edifice? Let me perseverate for a bit as I finish this beauty. Outstanding. 94 Points.

2023 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir Fox Trot, Anderson Valley, CA: Retail $40. Heavy bottle (627g; 22.1oz). Under cork. I believe this is the fourth vintage of the Foxtrot, a slight deviation from the established style of other Tongue Dancer Pinot Noirs. This 2023 is another big boy, but it seems to be slightly more reserved than its predecessors. But only slightly. Dark magenta in the glass, even really dark, with dark fruit on display: blackberry, black raspberry, even “bramble berry” (OK, many wine writers use that term, but I have never seen one of those in any market). As one would guess, the palate is fruity as well. Quite fruity. Really fruity. In fact, the fruit is distracting; there is so much focus on the fruit that other elements of this fabulous wine are somewhat hidden, but still incredible, with dark earth, a touch of spice, and subtle yet silky tannins. Like its older brethren, this is a big boy. Really big. This is a showcase for how big a Russian River Pinot can be. But it is also balanced and beautiful. But boy, Big. Outstanding. 94 Points.

2023 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $49. Heavy Bottle (630g; 22.2oz). Under cork. I would have to doublecheck, but I think this would be considered the “flagship” wine by the kind folks at Tongue Dancer (I am in the process of “checking”; I will get back to you). This is now the ninth(?) vintage of this wine I have reviewed and all of them have been stellar and remarkably consistent. So consistent, that one might think that this would become boring. It’s not. Even in the slightest. I am sure that James would claim that there is variation, even considerable variation, between vintages, but under his deft control, this wine simply kicks it year after year. Dark in color and aromas (perhaps a hallmark of James’ Pinots?) with oodles of dark berry fruit on the nose: blackberry, black cherry, black (fill in your) berry. Add touch of spice and a hint of eucalyptus. Whoa. The palate is big yet balanced, engaging and enticing, complex yet completely crushable. This, in a bottle, seems to be James’ winemaking philosophy: creating wines that will please just about every palate. You want big wine? Check. Complexity and introspection? Check. Drink now? Sure. Cellar for a bit? No problem. Balance? Hell ya. This checks so many boxes that it should come with a pencil. Oh. And I checked. “Flagship” it is. Outstanding. 95 Points.

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Chardonnay, Dry Creek Valley, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, Wine. Bookmark the permalink.

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