Since our boys were quite small, we have tried to go on a “big” family vacation at least every other year. As the boys got older, that gradually became more difficult with various other commitments competing for our valued family time.

This summer was supposed to be the big trip to Korea, birthplace of both of my wife’s parents and a significant presence in all of our lives since I first started dating my wife. We have frequently talked about a family trip there, but it has never materialized. This was going to be the year.

Until it wasn’t.

The recent political instability in Korea caused us to pivot. Instead, we returned to Europe, but to a corner of the continent that we had never really visited: Slovenia. My father’s mother was born in Cleveland, Ohio, but both of her parents came from Slovenia, a tiny country, about the size of Delaware, nestled in the Alps.

More to come on that soon.

From all of our years traveling to Europe, my wife and I learned at least one valuable lesson: we have trouble with jet lag. Thus, we knew, once we landed in Munich around 7:00 a.m., it was probably not wise to make the 4-5 hour drive to Slovenia right off the plane.

We decided to get the car in Munich and drive a much more reasonable hour or so to Salzburg, Austria, which was along the route to Slovenia and a city that my wife and I both had visited and loved.

The skies were gloomy, but there was a fascinating sculpture exhibit in front of the Salzburg cathedral.

It would also give us a chance to revisit a tiny restaurant in an old part of town that we had really enjoyed over a decade ago, but was still apparently open and (hopefully) thriving.

Of course, my wife made us pose for a picture in front of the statue of this guy on Mozartplatz.

The weather was gloomy, at best, but after a quick nap, my wife and I headed out to explore the town a bit, gradually making our way to the Steingasse neighborhood and our destination, Köchelverzeichnis. The plan was for our sons to join us about an hour later, giving us time to enjoy a glass of wine or two before they arrived.

“Our” tiny little restaurant, Köchelverzeichnis, in the Steingasse.

2018 Johanneshof Reinisch Rotgipfler Satzing, Thermenregion, Austria: 100% Rotgipfler. We were in Salzburg for a night, and it was pouring down rain, but I was determined to go to my favorite restaurant, a tiny place called Köchelverzeichnis in the Steingasse. I had stumbled across the place over a decade ago when I was in Salzburg with my wife. She was giving lectures all day, so I was free to roam the city in search of the best wine bar. This spot certainly came close. The place, as I remembered it, was tiny, with perhaps a total of fifteen seats inside and another dozen or so scattered among the stairs and spilling out into the street. It was located across the street from what was purportedly Mozart’s preferred brothel, which was still in operation, I surmised, by the subtle red light above the door. The wine bar was a one-woman show with a single hotpot and a fun wine list. Well, she apparently sold the spot about a year ago and is now owned by a younger couple, full of energy. They seemed to have added another hotpot and a ton more Austrian wines stuffed into the tiny spot. The owner suggested this wine, explaining that it is an obscure Austrian variety with some similar characteristics to white Burgundy. Good enough for me. Slightly golden in the glass with some tropical fruit (plenty of pineapple) with both mineral and salty streaks. The palate is rich and round with plenty of depth and more than enough acidity to provide balance. White Burgundy? Yeah, no, but this is lovely. Excellent. 92 Points.

2021 Velich Chardonnay Darscho, Mittelburgenland, Burgenland, Austria: Retail $65. Retail $65. From the Seewinkel region of Burgenland. From 20-45 year-old vines, whole-cluster pressed, fermented in French oak. We were only in Salzburg for the evening, having landed in Munich from Houston earlier that day. Sure, we were jet-lagged and it was pouring buckets, but we had made our way to the tiny restaurant/wine bar, Köchelverzeichnis, where my wife had shared many a meal and countless wines over a decade ago. The place had recently changed hands, and the new owners were clearly in deep with Austrian wines. We had already polished off a nice Rotgipfler when our two sons finally showed up. I was surprised to learn that my 22-year-old son now drinks wine. I had been trying nearly his whole life to get him at least somewhat interested in wine, but nothing stuck. Until, apparently, he moved to Cleveland, as in Ohio. Ugh. Now a bottle of wine has to be shared among three?? WTF. So we needed another bottle and we opted for this Chardonnay. Close to golden in the glass with lovely tree fruit and mandarin, with a touch of wood and hazelnut. Rich, layered, and fruity with viscosity and complexity. Whoa. This is right up there with the best chards I’ve had from Austria. Outstanding. 94 Points.

We will have to save a castle visit for our next trip to Austria…we were off to Slovenia.