A couple of months ago, on my last full day on Lago d’Iseo, I decided to try to visit a few wineries in nearby Franciacorta. I did not make any appointments, so I was flying by the seat of my pants and relying on information gleaned from the internet. I had a relatively short list of places I wanted to visit, a few big producers, a couple of medium-sized, and then a small producer.

A real Goldilocks kind of approach. Or something like that.

Before heading out, I did something I rarely do: I checked to make sure the wineries were open, it was a Monday, and, at least in France, many businesses are closed on Monday. So I was sure to do my due diligence, and all of the places on my list were indeed open on Mondays.

Phew. I felt rather proud of myself and organized–both rather rare occurrences.

My first stop was Ca’ del Bosco, perhaps the most popular producer of Franciacorta in the U.S.

Closed. I Google again on my phone. Yup, they are open on Mondays. But nope, they are certainly not open. 

Next, I pulled up to Ferghettina, a medium-sized producer, difficult to find in the U.S., but generally well-regarded.

Closed. Another Google, another “confirmation” that they were, indeed, open on Mondays.

Next, Corte Fusia, a really small producer but one that has received fantastic press in some of the big glossy publications. The winery was difficult to find, had a somewhat nondescript front “door”, and no signs of life.

Nonetheless, I rang the bell and waited. And waited. And rang again. And waited.

Nada. Nothing. Zilch.

Somewhat deflated and dumbfounded, I decided I would try one more: Baron Pizzini, a fairly large producer, one of the pioneers in the region, and, perhaps most importantly, it was on my way back to Lovere, on the lake.

The GPS had me head up a very narrow, dirt road to the winery, and once I cleared the hedges, I saw the building and a promising sight: some cars in the parking lot and a few people milling about.

Since I had not made an appointment, I headed to the front desk and sheepishly asked if I could possibly taste some wines, and they quickly affirmed that it would be no problem. I could taste four cuvées for the modest sum of 20€. For a brief moment, I considered seeking the “in the industry” discount, but, frankly, I was so happy that they were open that it really didn’t matter.

My host was the delightful Elisa, whose English was impeccable, her knowledge vast, and her presentation professional. But I was obsessed with her tiny Doc Martens. I figured they had to be a size 5 (36 in European sizing); as a much younger adult, I had coveted the brand from afar, as I could never find them in my size.

The lovely Elisa (sorry, no Doc Martens in the picture, I thought that would definitely be creepy).

Before Elisa had a chance to speak, I had to ask the question: why was everyone closed today? Simple. It was a national holiday in Italy (June 2nd), which explained the other closures. It did not, however, explain why this information was noticeably absent from the other producers’ websites, but I digress.

During the presentation, Elisa was sure to give multiple pairing suggestions, perhaps wanting to underscore that bubbles are not just for celebration or the aperitif. I have said many times that sparkling wine is really the most versatile wine to pair with food, but I also feel that the whole wine pairing obsession is way out of control at this point, but more on that soon (I hope).

After presenting the wines, Elisa was off to tend to other business, leaving me on my own to sample the wines, which was fine with me. It allowed me to take my time, type a few notes, and observe. About halfway through my tasting, a gardner (perhaps?) emerged from the back room with a fistful of breadsticks and a healthy pour of Franciacorta. Now that is my ideal work environment. 

NV Barone Pizzini Golf 1927, Franciacorta, Italy: Retail $28. 95% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir. 5g/l.  Elisa suggested that “GOLF” is actually an acronym: “Gentlemen Only Ladies Forbidden.” While this is not true (I believe “golf” comes from the Dutch word for “club”), it is true that Baron Pizzini founded the first golf club in Franciacorta in 1927. It was also one of the first clubs anywhere to allow women, which is why the label for this wine features a female golfer. Brilliant straw in the glass with oodles of lemon and some slight nuttiness on the nose. The palate is quite dry yet vibrant with a nice sparkle, touches of fruit, and a mineral, nutty finish. Very nice. Excellent. 91 Points. 

NV Barone Pizzini Animante, Franciacorta, Italy: Retail $38. 70% Chardonnay, 13% Pinot Nero, 10% Pinot Bianco, 7% Erbamat (an ancient local variety, lost until 2008 when Baron brought it back, with the hope that it would fare better in a warmer climate, finally allowed in the appellation in 2015). This is the first commercial wine with Erbamat. 0g/l. dosage. Slightly more color than the Golf, and more tree fruit on the nose, predominantly peach, with a touch of pear and a caramel, nutty note. Full-bodied, but bone dry with a fabulous mineral aspect and a touch of brioche. I love this style, but some might find it a bit bracing. Outstanding. 93 Points. 

2021 Barone Pizzini Satèn, Franciacorta, Italy: Retail $ 100% Chardonnay. The first fermentation is in oak and it spends 35 months on its lees. 5g/l dosage. Satèn is a specific designation in Franciacorta: it is always a blanc de Blancs (usually 100% Chardonnay, but Pinot Blanc is also allowed), with a slightly lower pressure than other wines (5 bar vs. 6 bar) from the region. This results in a softer, silkier wine, or so they say. Brilliant straw, on the verge of yellow with a fantastic nose of lemon rind and baked bread carried up through the glass with a delicate but abundant sparkle. Wonderful on the palate with tons of citrus fruit, a hint of brioche, and a strong mineral presence throughout. Another very dry wine with a finish that lasts for minutes. Yowza. Outstanding. 94 Points.

2021 Barone Pizzini Rosé, Franciacorta, Italy: Retail $45. 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay (this wine is usually 100% Pinot Noir, but there was a limited yield of Pinot in 2021 due to some harsh weather). 7-8 day maceration for color. 5 g/l dosage. Gorgeous salmon hue with red berry a go-go on the nose. Mostly cherry, but paired with strawberry and raspberry. The palate is rich, even on the verge of weighty, with the red fruit running the show. Plenty of tartness comes in right before the mid-palate, though, for balance. There’s a touch of yeastiness here, too, which underscores the assertion that this wine could hold up to the heartiest of dishes. Fantastic. Outstanding. 95 Points. 

Having enjoyed the tasting so much at Barone Pizzini, before I left the parking lot, I fired off three emails to try and secure a tasting or two the following day. I needed to make the 2.5-hour drive to Alba, but hopefully, I could squeeze them in (if, that is, they answered their emails).