Tasting Notes: Rodney Strong and Davis Bynum Wines

While I have been fortunate enough to receive wine samples for some time now, I still find it fun  when I get handed a box of bottles from the man in brown. Sure, there is responsibility involved as the producer is expecting me to taste and evaluate the wine (and hopefully write about it), but I can’t lie, it is a bit like Christmas morning, ripping open the package to see what is inside.

Some packages are more exciting than others, for sure, and a package from Rodney Strong never fails to get my blood pumping. While not all might feel that way, whenever I open a bottle of Rodney Strong, I know that it is going to be a solid wine, sold at a fair price.

That was the case a couple of weeks ago when I was sent a half-dozen bottles from the venerable winery, including two from Rodney Strong’s sister (brother?) label, Davis Bynum.

2023 Davis Bynum Chardonnay, River West Vineyard, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $30. Very Responsible Bottle (479g; 16.8oz). Under screw cap. Having just tasted three older vintages of this wine over the weekend, my initial thought here? “Boy, this is young.” But by the second sip and as the wine warmed a bit, it was clear that this was cut from the same cloth as the others that I had so thoroughly enjoyed. Bright citrus and golden apple on the nose with a bit of crushed seashell and white hyacinth flower. The palate is robust with plenty of fruit, an uctuousness that almost immediately coats the palate, and a racy tanginess that joins the fray on the mid-palate. I said this is young, and it is, but it is also completely delicious at this point. Would it benefit from a bit of cellar time? Sure, but can you wait? Outstanding. 93 Points.

2023 Davis Bynum Pinot Noir, River West Vineyard, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $65. Responsible Bottle (547g; 19.3oz). Under DIAM10. 14 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels, 64% new. Not too long ago, I was sent several new releases from Davis Bynum / Rodney Strong and this was among the first that I opened. Why? While most would consider Rodney Strong a “Bordeaux House” I find their Pinot Noirs quite compelling and the Davis Bynum wines certainly lead the pack. This single vineyard beauty has lovely dark cherry and a touch of earth on the nose with a bit of spice and a lovely floral aspect. The palate has lovely fruit and wonderful balance with a nice tang that pops in on the midpalate. While this is certainly a California Pinot, it is far from a fruit bomb; it is delightfully demure, a great addition to the dinner table or hearty enough to stand alone. Outstanding. 94 Points.

2023 Rodney Strong Chardonnay Limited Collection, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $37. Very Responsible Bottle (466g; 16.4oz). From what I could ascertain, this “Limited Collection” Chard is one of a series of smaller production wines that are unlike anything else from Sonoma County.” While the first half of that assertion is somewhat verifiable, the second? Well, um, I guess so? Medium straw in the glass with plenty of peach and citrus on the nose, along with hints of oak and vanilla. Yum. The palate is both tart, and vibrant while also round and soothing. Plenty of fruit, particularly through the midpalate when the acidity and a touch of spice wrestle away control. The lengthy finish solidifies this wine as a wonderful effort but “unlike any else from Sonoma County”? I guess I would need to know a bit more…. Excellent. 91 Points.

2023 Rodney Strong Pinot Noir Limited Collection, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $37. Very Responsible Bottle (477g; 16.8oz). Under DIAM10. 12 months in 100% French oak barrels, 35% new. I do believe that this is the inaugural vintage of this “Limited Pinot”, or however the fine folks at Rodney Strong refer to this luscious, medium colored wine. Tons of fruit on the nose with layers of cherry, black cherry, Bing cherry (yeah, tons of cherry), a touch of subtle spice, and just a hint of rhubarb. Delicious. The palate continues on that theme with all that fruit, yes, but also a compelling, balancing tartness. Whoa. No, Rodney Strong is not “known” for their Pinots (that notoriety is usually reserved for the Davis Bynum side of the house), but winemaker Justin Seidenfeld lays down a bit of a gauntlet here; is he reasserting that Rodney Strong is, indeed, a “Pinot House” as well? Hmmm. Outstanding. 94 Points.

2022 Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon, Knights Valley, Sonoma County, CA: Retail $37. Heavy Bottle (667g; 23.5oz). Under cork. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 18 months in 100% French oak barrels, 50% new. This is another wine from the Rodney Strong “Limited Series”, which seem to be smaller production wines at a mid-premium price point. Dark in the glass with somewhat muted fruit and a slight herbal aspect that I really like in Cabernet (although I appear to be in the minority). There is plenty of fruit on the palate, however, most of it dark with a healthy dose of black earth, nice acidity, and a subtle florality that works. As with most wines from Rodney Strong, this is a solid effort, true to the variety, and certainly a bargain. Excellent. 92 Points.

2019 Rodney Strong Symmetry, Alexander Valley, CA: Retail $70. Heavy Bottle (663g; 23.3oz). Under cork. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 7% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Rodney Strong is one of the brands that I closely associate with my wine writing “career”. They were one of the first wineries that recognized my writing and what I was trying to do. Since then, I have sampled many a vintage of many a wine from the venerable Sonoma County producer, and I have spouted from the highest rooftop that Rodney Strong is not only one of the best producer in terms of value, but one of the best overall. This Symmetry is no exception. Rich red and dark fruit on the nose with plenty of spice and a touch of earth on the dark, opaque wine. The palate is balanced between all of that fruit and the tart, lip-smacking acidity, ending with a memorable finish. Outstanding. 93 Points.

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

1 Response to Tasting Notes: Rodney Strong and Davis Bynum Wines

  1. Hmmmmmmmm….. maybe I will pick up some Rodney Strong now….. the blend and pinot have me intrigued based on your notes.

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