Craig Camp: Champion of Sustainable Winemaking

In a world that seemingly has decided to focus on the negative, I tend to relish every bit of good news that comes across one of my various screens. A handful of days ago, however, I did not have to search far as some great news was waiting for me in my in-box.

Craig Camp has been nominated for a Wine Enthusiast Wine Star Award, for Environmental Advocate of the Year. While surely I would be considered by some as relatively “new” to the wine world, I can say without equivocation that I know of no more deserving person than Craig Camp.

I met Craig shortly after I started this blog, when he was the GM at a winery in Napa. Not too long thereafter, he left Napa and moved to Southern Oregon, to a rather small producer with average wines and a dying vineyard. Why? Craig saw opportunity to make a real impact in the wine world.

With the support of encouraging owners, Craig transformed Troon Vineyard from a disease-ridden, underperforming vineyard to perhaps the model of regenerative, organic/biodynamic, sustainable, and responsible farming in the wine world.

As I mentioned in my previous article, The Magic of Troon Vineyard, Craig’s impact on the farm, the vineyard, and the people at Troon have been immeasurable. All the while, it seems, Craig diminishes his role, preferring to present himself as a member of the team, a team that is trying to do it right.

I have been reviewing Troon wines since Craig started there, almost a decade ago in 2016, and the wines continue to improve with each subsequent vintage. Although he did not come up with the idea, Craig believes wholeheartedly that healthy vines are happy vines and happy vines make the best wines. I doubt there are any vines anywhere on the planet that are happier than those at Troon.

I always eat well when I visit Troon, and the wines? Yeah…

Here are a few of the Vineyard’s current releases, but before you get there, take a moment to thank Craig Camp for all that he has done for the wine world and for all he continues to do for the planet.

2023 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber. Applegate Valley, OR: Retail $55. Responsible Bottle (480g; 16.9oz). 100% Vermentino. The grapes were specially grown for this orange wine, with lower yields and more sun exposure to encourage more tannin development, which is important for an orange wine. Aged for 10 months in amphora. This gets better as it approaches cellar or even room temperature. Amber color (as one would expect) with a slight orange tint and aromas of Asian pear, honeysuckle, and beeswax. Layered and complex on the palate with subtle fruit, toasted nut, honeysuckle, Asian spice, and plenty of weight. Like I said, this shows much better, is much more expressive as it warmed. Excellent. 91 Points.

2024 Troon Vineyard Glou-Glou. Applegate Valley, OR: Retail $30. Very Responsible Bottle (480g; 16.9oz). 52% Cinsault, 48% Grenache. Carbonic maceration. Medium to dark color in the glass with plenty of red fruit (cherry, strawberry) and more than a modicum of funk (I love the funk) and some floral hints (red rose?). The palate is initially quite fruity, but the funk comes in pretty quickly, as does the acidity. Yowza. While I doubt this was intended to be “your typical rosé” it is certainly far from that. Fruity, funky, fresh, and fantastic, this might challenge your conception of “rosé” (even the website says: “Is it a dark rosé or a light red? That’s up to you!”) there is no doubt that this is a wonderful quaff. Excellent. 92 Points.

2023 Troon Vineyard Mourvèdre Amphora. Applegate Valley, OR: Retail $65. Very Responsible Bottle (472g; 16.6oz). No Foil. DIAM closure. 100% Mourvèdre. There is soooo much I love about Troon: Demeter biodynamic, Certified Regenerative Organic, no capsule, super light bottle, really nice people. I could go on and on. But. Mourvèdre. Not a fan. I find the variety overly funky (and I normally love the funk), overly meaty, and this wine certainly slots into that characterization. But. This is a beautiful wine, extremely well-done and well-balanced between the luscious fruit and the tangy acidity. If more Mourvèdres were like this one, I could become a fan. I think. I am seriously thinking about joining the Troon wine club (I have not been a member of any wine club for 20 years) since they do everything right. Excellent. 92 Points.

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Applegate Valley, Cinsault/Cinsaut, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Oregon, Vermentino, Wine. Bookmark the permalink.

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