As I have mentioned several times in this space, my love for wine was born in Europe when I spent the summer months as a cycling tour guide, mostly in France. I was teaching at a boarding school in New York at the time and I doubt there was a better summer job than traipsing around the various wine regions of France by bike.

After a couple of years, I moved to the Bay Area for another teaching job and soon delved into American wine. From my time in France, I knew I was more of a “Pinot Guy” so that is where I started in the U.S., with the great Pinot Noirs first of California and, eventually, the Willamette Valley.

I read voraciously about wine in general and Pinot Noir in particular and soon became familiar with some of the vineyards that were producing the best wines. If there were ever a “Grand Cru” system implemented in California for what I see as the best grape variety, it would certainly include Rochioli and Sangiacomo Vineyards in the Russian River Valley, Clos Pepe and Sanford and Benedict Vineyards in the Santa Rita Hills, Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, and Pisoni Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands.

As I was becoming better versed in California Pinot, it was perhaps that last site, Pisoni  Vineyard, that fascinated me the most. Not only were the wines made from that spot sublime, Gary Pisoni was, by all accounts, a bigger-than-life personality, and, at least to me, the personification of all that was good about wine.

Thus, I was honored, and a bit flabbergasted, a few years ago when I was asked to review a few wines from the Pisoni Family, now run by Gary’s sons, Jeff and Mark. This is now the second vintage of the Gamay Noir, the fourth vintage of the Pico Blanco, and the ninth vintage of the Rosé of Pinot Noir from the family’s Lucy line of wines I have reviewed and each time I have to kind of pinch myself as a reminder of how fortunate I am.

2024 Pisoni Family Vineyards Lucy Pico Blanco, Monterey County, CA: Retail $26. Heavy Bottle (604g; 21.2oz). 65% Pinot Gris and 35% Pinot Blanc. Agglomerated stopper. Foil. This is now the fourth(!) vintage of this wine that I have sampled and it might just be my favorite. Even though the percentage of Pinot Gris decreased this year (it was around 85% last year), this still has all the markings of a classic Gris (my favorite variety from Alsace). The nearly yellow elixir is juicy, fruity, rich, even close to unctuous but buoyed by enough zingy tartness to keep all that ebullience in check. While the fruit dominates the flavor profile, there are also floral and mineral aspects if one is patient enough and digs a bit deeper. The finish is a celebration of the whole: loaded with fruit, punctuated by that acidity, and lasting for well over a minute. For around twenty-five bucks? Sign me up. Outstanding. 94 Points.

2024 Pisoni Family Vineyards Lucy Rosé of Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, CA: Retail $24. Very Responsible Bottle (498g; 17.5oz). Under an agglomerated stopper and foil. 50% Whole Cluster Press & 50% Saignée. I have been fortunate enough to review the Lucy wines from the Pisoni Family for a few vintages now, and this rosé is delightful. Pretty much right down the middle when it comes to color with bright aromas of strawberry and cherry as well as a touch of florality. Lovely. The palate is bright, fruity, and cheery, in fact, it comes off as a bit overly tart, initially, but as it warmed (just slightly), the wine came into balance and was quite tasty. Excellent. 91 Points.

2024 Pisoni Family Vineyards Gamay Noir Lucy. Santa Lucia Highlands, CA: Retail $30. Heavy Bottle (617g; 21.7oz). Wax seal. 100% Gamay. “Fermented with 60% whole clusters in open-top tanks to create a semi-carbonic environment.” I am a big fan of Beaujolais and I was excited to try this wine since a). It seems to have been produced with a nod to the way wines are made in Beaujolais, and b). I really love the wines I have had from this producer. Fairly dark in color with good fruit in the glass, mostly dark fruit (plum, blackberry), but also a modicum of funk (I love the funk), notes of smoke, and a touch of spice. The palate is far less brooding than its outward appearance; in fact, it is downright bright and engaging. The fruit rules; it is juicy, even really juicy, with a zingy acidity and plenty of verve. Yeah, this is incredible Gamay. Outstanding. 93 Points.