Muret-Gaston is French for Old Friends (not really, but it should be)

Way back when, shortly after starting this website, the indefatigable Amy Johnson, half of the power duo that makes up Purple Star/Muret-Gaston Wines, contacted me and asked if she could send me samples. At the time, I had only received samples from, well, fringe wineries (one memorable bottle actually glowed in the dark so that it would be “easier to find in late night hot-tub session”–I really wish I was joking).

Back then, it was still somewhat shocking to me that someone, anyone, would want to send me  wine to review. I said “yes” of course, and we have remained in touch ever since. I have been out to visit a couple of times and sampled their wines off and on for years. One thing is clear: Kyle, a talented winemaker which was evident from those first samples, has only gotten better. The relatively new Muret-Gaston line (named after their respective ancestors who lived in neighboring villages in France) underscores that assertion. Much of the fruit comes from the Boushey Vineyard, planted and managed by Dick Boushey, as close as it comes to a living legend in Washington viticulture.

Amy and Kyle are on the verge of a disgustingly adorable couple and Kyle has a gorgeous head of hair (although this must be right after a trim).Amy and Kyle recently sent me a case of wine for review, here are the rosé, two dry whites, and a sweet white. [On another note, all of these photos come from the Muret-Gaston and Purple Star Instagram accounts as the art available on the actual winery websites is, well, woeful, which I will tell Amy, but she is already the hardest working person I know, so she gets a pass.]

2023 Purple Star Rosé, Columbia Valley, WA: Retail $20. Very Responsible Bottle (483g; 17.0oz). Screw cap. 70% Mourvedre, 30% Syrah. It fells like I have known Kyle and Amy Johnson, owners of Purple Star forever, or at least as long as I have been writing about wine. They were one of the first producers to take an interest in my blog and I have seen them periodically on my travels to Washington State. This rosé is always one of my favorite wines that Kyle makes; fruity, juicy, and tart, but also layered, silky, and robust, this is not a shy, delicate Provençal wanna be, but a hearty wine that really should have a place at the dinner table (but would also hold its own at the pool). Fantastic. Excellent. 92 Points.

Yeah, this is a 2020 vintage. [Cough] update [cough] your [cough] media.

2023 Muret-Gaston Picpoul Blanc Blanc Boushey Vineyard: Retail $32. Very Responsible Bottle (472g; 16.7oz). Under cork. There is not a ton of Picpoul grown in the U.S. In fact, there is not much at all, which is why I don’t drink it very often. Sure, I could opt for the French version, the famed Picpoul de Pinet, but honestly, those that I have tried from this country have been richer, a bit rounder, and frankly more flavorful than their French brethren. Case in point. I have known Amy and Kyle Johnson, the everything behind M-G (and their main winery, Purple Star) for more than a decade now, and all of their wines have been stellar. This Picpoul, from the famed Boushey Vineyard, is fairly light in color with some tree fruit (pear and ripe peach), beeswax, and touches of white flower and white pepper on the nose. The palate is rich, at least for a Picpoul in my experience, with balanced fruit and tartness up front, with an interesting spice, that white pepper, in the background on the mid-palate. The finish is fruity, tart, and lengthy. Outstanding. 93 Points.

Picpoul x 6

2022 Muret-Gaston Blanc, Boushey Vineyard, Yakima Valley, WA: Retail $32(?). Very Responsible Bottle (469g; 16.5oz). 43% Roussanne, 32% Grenache Blanc, 12% Viognier, 11% Marsanne, 2% Picpoul. Under cork. I last sampled the 2020 vintage of this wine, which was a majority Marsanne blend with no Grenache Blanc or Picpoul. So I guess Kyle decided to dive a bit more into the white Rhône varieties and it works. Well. This brilliant straw wine has notes of white peach and apricot on the nose with a hint of hazelnut, and a touch of acacia flower. The palate is juicy, luscious, slightly mineral, and plenty tart. Whoa. There is a steeliness here, too, that is both refreshing and demanding food. I have been reviewing Kyle and Amy’s wines for a while now and this has to rank up near the top of the white wines they have produced. Bravo Famille Johnson, Bravo. Outstanding. 94 Points.

I have to admit, their Insta is on point…

2021 Muret-Gaston Jean, Boushey Vineyard, Yakima Valley, WA: From 375ml bottle. Retail? Heavy Bottle. Under cork. 65% Sémillon, 35% Sauvignon Blanc. I could find exactly zero on the inter webs about this wine. Zilch. Nada. But I assume that this is Kyle and Amy Johnson’s take on the classic Sauternes-style dessert wine. Before I opened it, I was hesitant as many have tried to emulate perhaps the greatest dessert wines in the world and few have succeeded. Until now? OK, few would confuse this with a Sauternes, but this is damned good. Light straw in the glass with apricot, peach, and bosc pear on the nose with hints of honey and even lime. The palate is sweet, but closer to off-dry than cloying and the ample acidity is a brilliant counter-balance. I do not drink much off-dry/sweet/dessert wines these days, but this is certainly delightful. Outstanding. 94 Points.

I have yet to be invited to the Wine Bar. Just saying…

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
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