It is time for another edition of “Random Samples”–I occasionally get samples from marketing agencies and/or producers. These can often be grouped together into some sort of overarching theme: Muret-Gaston is French for Old Friends (not really, but it should be), The Rise of Australian Wine Beyond Shiraz, Some Wines from Victoria, If It Doesn’t Sparkle, It Doesn’t Matter.
Other times, I get just a bottle or two that do not have any apparent connection or link. Instead of holding on to those bottles until the “right” combination comes along, I decided to link all these “random” bottles together, making their own category (and, being the math geek that I am, “random sample” has a bit of a double entendre).
2023 The Four Graces Pinot Blanc Reserve, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $45. Responsible Bottle (556g; 19.6oz). Under screw cap. 100% Pinot Blanc. I was soliciting samples for my annual Pinot Noir tasting, and the kind people at the Foley Wine Group included this lovely Pinot Blanc in the shipment. What a treat… Quite light in the glass with a wonderful nose of ripe Bosc pear, a touch of melon, and even a hint of banana. The palate is tart and fruity, with a round, coating mouthfeel and a lingering finish. Pinot Blanc does not receive nearly enough attention as a serious wine; this fantastic Four Graces effort should serve as the poster child for the variety. It’s delicious. Excellent. 92 Points.
2023 Gnarly Head 1924 Limited Edition Whiskey Barrel Aged, California: Retail $18. Extremely Heavy Bottle (875g; 30.8oz). Agglomerated stopper. I looked. For. A. While. But I could not find the varietal makeup of this wine or really any information, other than it was aged in Bourbon Barrels. I get that Bourbon Barrel-aged wines have had some recent popularity, but I am always a bit dubious. The Sauvignon Blanc from the same producer was delightful (90 Points), so I am keeping an open mind. But the bottle is dumb. It’s heavy and shaped like an old-fashioned whiskey bottle. With a handle thingy. OK. Open mind. Dark in the glass with a sweet, rich, fruity nose; clearly the whiskey barrel has done its job. The palate is also rich, maybe even more so, with intense fruit, a distinct smokiness, and an acidity that struggles to keep up. So. Cards on the table, this is not my style of wine; it is sweet, rich, and on the verge of over-the-top. But. If this were the kind of wine I liked, I would likely find it compelling. So how to score? Good question. For me? It might scratch “Very Good” (87-ish points). But if I were looking for this style? Yeah, I think it would push up into “Excellent“. 90 Points.
2023 Poggio San Polo Rubio Toscana IGT, Italy: Retail $20. Very Responsible Bottle (437g; 15.4oz). 100% Sangiovese. Under synthetic (Nomacorc, ugh) stopper. This is an IGT designation but also 100% Sangiovese, which makes me believe that this is outside of the traditional Tuscan regions (e.g., Chianti, Brunello, etc.). A bit light in color with a fruity, yes, but also meaty (even more so) nose, which is both appealing and screams out for food. I decided to pair this with my “famous” Wagyu fajitas, and it worked well, even very well. Sure, there is some fruit and even more of that savory, meaty aspect on the palate (along with more than a touch of barnyard funk), but the real story here is the zippy, tangy, racy acidity, which really drives this wine from first sip to finish (and worked exceedingly well with my fajitas). Look, if you are looking for a big, even bombastic, fruit-driven show stopper, this is not it. But if you are looking at a food-friendly, reasonably priced delight for a Tuesday night? Yeah. giddy-up. Very Good. 89 Points.
2021 Smith-Madrone Riesling, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $40. Very Responsible Bottle (489g; 17.2oz). Under cork. 100% Riesling. I have been fortunate enough to review the Smith-Madrone Rieslings since at least the 2015 vintage. I did not check, but I am pretty sure I open each note with just how incredible this wine is every year; it always makes me giddy (well, if I were actually ever “giddy”), and if I could do a cartwheel, I probably would. Why? Well, it is simply the best Riesling produced in the state, Charlie and Stu Smith are truly salt-of-the-earth kind of people, and it is still one of the most affordable wines in its quality stratosphere every year. This 2021 is not different. Nearly bone-dry with aromas of bright lemon and lime, a healthy dose of petrol, and touches of honeysuckle, hyacinth, and tangerine peel. Whoa. The palate is once again its beautiful, harmonious self with a near-searing acidity that more than keeps all the fruit in check. The finish is perhaps the most remarkable aspect of this remarkable wine, as it lasts for minutes, well beyond when you are ready to take the next sip. Most wine people would agree with me: Smith-Madrone Cabernets and Chardonnays are off the charts delicious, but the Riesling always steals the show. Outstanding. 96 Points.
2022 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir Rosé, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $25. Magnum. Heavy Magnum (1235g; 43.5oz). 100% Pinot Noir. Under cork. The fine folk at Tongue Dancer Wines sent me this gorgeous bottle, it’s really spectacular, with a beautiful wine within, and we opted to open this for our traditional Korean New Year’s Eve day dinner. And it was fantastic. Not only did it pair wonderfully with the salty, slightly spicy food, but it is a gem in its own right. Medium to dark orange-ish pink in the glass with plenty of cherry, a touch of strawberry, and a smidge of citrus characterize the nose, along with a hint of rose petal, and a modicum of salinity. Whoa. The palate is rich, riveting, and revelatory with oodles of that red fruit, a near bracing tartness, and enough verve to fill a rather large wheelbarrow. Whoa. I have tasted this wine a couple of times prior, but both of those bottles were 750s and popped within a year or two of harvest. This magnum? Three plus years out? Whoa. This leads credence to my contention that well made rosés can age gracefully, even improve, with cellar time. Whoa. Outstanding. 95 Points.






