Weekly Cellar Round-Up

Over the course of a week, I taste a bunch of wine, usually with friends, and almost always with my wife.  Here are some of the wines we tasted over the past few weeks. These are wines that were not sent as samples—in most cases, I actually paid for these wines (although a few have been given as gifts).

NV Caves de Bussy Crémant de Loire Rosé, Loire Valley, France: Retail $25. Very Heavy Bottle (785g; 27.6oz). 100% (?) Cabernet Franc. I have always been partial to Crémants from the Loire (and also Alsace and the Jura), so when I saw this at Total Wine for around sixteen bucks, I took a flyer on six bottles. And it’s fine. Sure, I had hoped for a bit more, but there is decent fruit, a lovely mousse, and enough acidity to keep one’s interest, at least for one glass. It is a decent enough sparkler, but on the shelf for $17? I just think there are other options out there that offer more complexity. Mumm Napa comes to mind, as does Gloria Ferrer. Very Good. 87 Points.

2019 Fullerton Wines Chardonnay Five Faces, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $36. Very Responsible Bottle (474g; 16.7oz). Under screw cap. I saw this on Wineslash for fifteen bucks, and I decided to take a flyer. I have had a few wines from Fullerton now, and I have been impressed. While this wine might not change your life, it certainly is a solid effort with plenty of fruit and minerality on the nose, a delightful entry into the wine. There is a healthy tartness from the jump, and the subtle citrus fruit comes in shortly thereafter. The oak/buttery aspect is minimal, making this a wonderful choice for the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) crowd. Very Good. 89 Points.

2013 La Follette Pinot Noir Van der Kamp Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain, CA: Retail $42. Responsible Bottle (584g; 20.6oz). It has been yet another minute since I popped one of these (another three years to be precise), and this might be the best of the three thus far. Still plenty of bright red fruit on the nose (rich, ripe cherry, strawberry, even some red currant) along with vanilla, a touch of spice, and just the slightest hint of oak. Yowza. Based on the nose, one could easily be persuaded that this beauty is half its age (or even a new release), and the palate serves to underscore that assertion. More rich, red fruit past the lips, with a decided cherry cobbler element that is simply delicious; that paired with a zingy, lip-smacking tartness, renders this one of the best Pinots I have had this year (but it is only January 1st). Outstanding. 94 Points.

2013 Domaine de l’Oriel Gérard Weinzorn Riesling Sommerberg “Z”, Alsace Grand Cru, France: Retail 35€. Very Responsible Bottle (448g; 15.8oz). 100% Riesling. Under cork. OK, I am going to try to make it through this tasting note. I acquired this bottle shortly after one of my dearest friends died. Without going too much into it, he was complicated as was, not surprisingly, our relationship. His widow and two (now) adult daughters were visiting from France, and after going through an impressive amount of champagne, I opted for this incredible Grand Cru Riesling from a producer that we both loved (but he found). In November, I broke the news to the winemaker that my dear friend had died, almost four years prior to the day. The winemaker had no idea, and we lamented for a good time over his stellar wines that my friend adored. Fast forward a couple of months, and I pulled this during a heated game of Cards Against Humanity with the family he left behind. I kept a stiff upper lip, but it was difficult for me as it represented what I had lost: a boss, a mentor, a friend, even a brother. I realize that my loss paled in comparison to theirs, but that did not make it any easier on me. The wines from his “estate” that I “inherited” are now down to a scant few, and that worries me on a few levels. But. He would have wanted me to focus on the present and enjoy this wine, which is stellar. Plenty of citrus and more than a hint of petrol, this is a classic Alsatian Riesling. Rich, tart, racy, coating, and 100% gangbusters, this might be the poster child for the region’s signature (?) variety. Yowza. Am I biased by my personal connection to this wine? Absolutely. And that is perfectly fine, as that is one of the many great elements of wine: it ties the present to the past like no other. Outstanding. 95 Points

2012 Domaine du Théron Malbec Cuvée Prestige, Cahors, France: Retail $25. Very Responsible Bottle (482g; 17.0oz). 100% Malbec. In my last note, I offered a lot: my thoughts on Malbec (meh), the version that comes from Cahors (meh), and older wines (yea!). Well, 6-7 months later, this bottle has a ton of Brett (which is not necessarily a bad thing for me), but also plenty of dark (and somewhat stewed) fruit (blackberry, plum) along with some vanilla, spice, and certainly some verve. The palate is a continuation of that theme: an older wine with plenty of thoughts to share, including rich fruit, a lively acidity, and plenty of earth. Did I wait too long on this wine (as my wife asserted)? Maybe. But I am in the camp that this is a pretty stellar 12-13 year-old Malbec. And maybe then some? Very Good. 89 Points.

2008 Château de Tiregand Grand Millésime, Pécharmant, Bergerac, France: Retail $40. Responsible Bottle (591g; 20.8oz). 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Cabernet Franc. Not much Pécharment makes its way out of France as it is a tiny appellation in the Bergerac region of Southwest France, just to the east of Bordeaux. I purchased two bottles of this wine back in 2012 on a visit to the winery, and I am certainly happy about that now. A classic Bordeaux blend, perhaps (at least right bank), with still plenty of life, particularly the fruit (mostly dark, to be sure) and earth on the nose, which would be worthy of remark no matter what the wine or region. But. This is “special”. Sure, it is close to 20 years old, but while certainly showing its age, it is still a remarkable wine. Yowza, and a whoa. Outstanding. 93 Points.

WINE OF THE WEEK: Even before I popped the bottle of the 2013 Domaine de l’Oriel Riesling Sommerberg “Z”, I knew it was going to be the Wine of the Week. Even if it had turned out a bit old, or worse, corked, there was just so much meaning behind the wine and the bottle for me. There were two other wines, though, that put up a really strong showing, and in any other week? Sure, they would have likely garnered the top spot. So, kudos to the 2008 Château de Tiregand Grand Millésime Pécharmant and the 2013 La Follette Pinot Noir Van der Kamp!

What was your Wine of the Week?

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Alsace, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cahors, Chardonnay, Crémant, France, Loire Valley, Malbec, Merlot, Oregon, Pécharmant, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sonoma Mountain, Sparkling Wine, Willamette Valley and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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