Even the most casual observer of the wine industry knows that that there is currently a bit of a crisis; consumption is down, even way down and as much as a third of the 2025 harvest remains unsold. Wineries are closing across the U.S., vineyards are being ripped out across Europe, and many are wondering what will be the path forward for an industry that had seen steady increases for decades.

While almost all regions are seeing a downturn, the crisis is perhaps most acute with the sweet wines of Bordeaux. “Sweet Bordeaux”, roughly defined as the wines of Sauternes and those of its satellite appellations (e.g., Montbazillac, Loupiac, Cadillac, Sainte Croix du Mont, etc.), has witnessed a gradually decline in consumption as wine drinkers have gradually moved away from sweet wines, focussing instead on drier styles.

On a personal note, my wife and I used to consume quite a bit of sweet or “dessert” wines, but we, too, have moved more towards drier sparkling wines as our tastes have evolved. Add in the extra calories associated with all that extra sugar, and it is fairly easy to see why the sweet wines of Bordeaux are struggling right now. And that is too bad, since many of the wines are quite complex and are often considered among the best in the world.

Recently, I decided to clear out a few of the Sweet Bordeaux wines in my cellar. As you can see from my notes, I thoroughly enjoyed these wines that were, for the most part, quite affordable. Does that mean I will be heading out to restock my cellar? Probably not. My wife won’t touch the stuff.

2020 Château de Birot, Cadillac, Bordeaux, France: Retail $15. Very Responsible Bottle (453g; 15.9oz). Under agglomerated. Mostly Sémillon (80%?) with Sauvignon Blanc. I found four bottles of white (and I assume sweet) Bordeaux in my samples rack. I have no idea when or how they got there, but I have two rules when it comes to samples: taste them and write a note about the wine. So here we go. The info on this wine online was scant. Even really scant (if that is possible), so I have no idea what is in here or how much it costs, but I am assuming it is mostly Sémillon with some Sauvignon tossed in for grins. Yellow in the glass with oodles of honey blossom, ripe pear, orange rind, and a distinct salinity. Yum. The palate is silky and sweet (but not overly so) with plenty of zing, a flinty minerality, and, interestingly, a hint of smoke. As I have mentioned numerous times, we have moved away from sweet wines and while this is not “sweet” it is, well, sweet. But it was fabulous tonight for my somewhat spicy wagyu fajitas with black bean salsa and red and poblano peppers (plus some vadalia onion). Yeah, this wine held its own and then some. Excellent. 91 Points.

2020 Famille Boyer Les Coteaux de Lou, Loupiac, Bordeaux, France: Retail $30. Responsible Bottle (519g; 18.3oz). 60% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon Gris. This is the last of a handful of bottles from “Sweet Bordeaux” that I received a while ago. Way back when, I visited Michel Boyer (although this wine is made by his daughter, I believe) in Loupiac on a press trip to taste the sweet wines of Bordeaux. It was a great trip and I tasted some beautiful wines. This Côteaux de Lou is an effort to make more approachable, affordable, and slightly less sweet wines that might have a broader appeal. Plenty of lemon and grapefruit along with some honey blossom, a salty note, and plenty of verve on the nose. The palate is no less enticing with fruit and a noticeable sweetness at the fore, followed by a scintillating acidity that melds in well. I really, really love this wine, but is it a dessert wine? A “table” wine? An apéritif? I imagine the folks in Bordeaux would admit “We don’t care, as long as you drink it.” And here we have the problem; in a world where sweet wines are dying a slow, painful death, does this style stand a chance? Excellent. 92 Points.

2015 Château Crabitan Bellevue, Sainte Croix du Mont, Bordeaux, France: Retail $30. Very Responsible Bottle (474g; 16.7oz). 98% Sémillon, 2% Sauvignon Blanc. Near golden in color with plenty of honeyed lemon, honeysuckle, a touch of hyacinth, and that botrytized element that defines many of the dessert wines of the region. The palate is certainly sweet, but short of cloying, with noticeable botrytis, plenty of lemon and orange rind, and some baked pear. This is a great representation from perhaps a lesser-known appellation (at least in the U.S.). Fantastic. Excellent. 92 Points.

2010 Château Majoureau Doux, Côtes de Bordeaux Saint Macaire, Bordeaux, France: Retail $15. Very Responsible Bottle (452g; 15.9oz). Under cork. Interestingly, perhaps (?), the vintage of this wine was blacked out on the label so to say this is a 2010? Yeah, I have no idea. Yellow in the glass with honeyed peach, white flower, a bit of minerality, and a faint tropical note. On the palate, this is sweet, but far from cloying; I would not characterize this wine as a “dessert” effort at all (although with some fresh strawberries…). Rather, this is a fantastic wine to pair with some of the more challenging dishes out there: spicy food, asparagus, sushi. This is light, tart and, yes, a bit sweet, but it could hold up to a ton of dishes. Or the swimming pool. Excellent. 90 Points.