Virtual Tasting–Finger Lakes Sparkling and Dessert Wines

I have traveled in more than my fair share of wine regions: Champagne, Burgundy, Alsace, Loire, Napa, Sonoma, Sta Rita Hills, Willamette Valley, and I have enjoyed them all. There are countless other wine regions that I would love to visit at some point: the Wachau in Austria (will likely be there this Spring), the Tokaj Region of Hungary, the Anderson Valley in California, and Walla Walla in Washington.

Another region that is perhaps at the top of that list of regions I would like to visit soon is the Finger Lakes Wine Region in New York State. It is not that far of a drive from here in Philly, the region is purportedly beautiful, and many of the wines I have tried have been top-notch.  I have been receiving samples from the Finger Lakes for a while now and I have been quite impressed with the wines–particularly the area’s Rieslings, which is certainly the signature variety of the region.

A few months ago, I was asked if I wanted to join in on a virtual tasting of some of the area’s sparkling and dessert wines. As long time readers of this blog know, my personal motto is “If it doesn’t sparkle, it doesn’t matter!” So of course, I signed up. The actual tasting took place last week and I was Tweeting away with a few friends that came into town unexpectedly.

The AVA, established in 1982, is huge, encompassing four main lakes: Canandaigua Lake, Keuka Lake, Seneca Lake, and Cayuga Lake with just over 100 wineries total. Although Riesling is certainly king, there is no shortage of diversity, with several other varieties and styles on the rise.

From fingerlakeswinealliance.com

From fingerlakeswinealliance.com

The wines:

NV Goose Watch Winery Pinot Noir Brut Rosé: Retail $18. The winery opened in 1997 in Romulus, NY, overlooking Cayuga Lake. The 100% Pinot Noir wine is a shockingly vibrant red having a chalky nose with a bit of plum. On the palate: some good fruit flavors but the residual sugar (RS) seems a bit out of place. Acidity is ample but not overwhelming. Short finish. On the second day, this was a completely different wine, much better balance and the fruit harmonious. Perhaps needs a little more bottle time before release? Very Good. 87-89 Points (rating based on second day).

2003 Glenora Wine Cellars Brut Méthode Champenoise: Retail $24.99. Glenora was the first winery on Seneca Lake, opening in 1977. The wine is a blend of 68% Pinot Noir, 19% Pinot Blanc, and 13% Chardonnay. There is an immediate nutty briny nose with great sparkle and a slightly amber color. Nutty and clean on the palate with even some pineapple. This is very good, reminiscent of a Crémant from Burgundy. Very Good. 88-90 Points.

Fox Run Vineyards Hedonia: Retail $9.99 (375 ml). Fox Run opened in 1990, on the site of a former dairy farm, over looking Seneca Lake. The fortified (20% ABV) wine is 100% Traminette and presents a perfumed nose with melon and acacia flower. On the palate a bit hot initially, with sweetness, orange, a bit of spice, and that perfume  It ends with a bit of a chalky finish that seems out of place. The label says this would do well with a twist of orange on the rocks, which certainly deserves a try. On the second day, this too, had improved–the flavors seemed to behave much better together. Very Good. 86-88 Points.

2012 Thirsty Owl Wine Company Cabernet Sauvignon Ice Wine: Retail $39.95 (375 ml). Thirsty Owl, located on Cayuga Lake, opened in 2002, and makes this Ice Wine from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, which was frozen naturally on the vine. It has an impressive nose of cranberry and a hint of raisin, and on the palate it is tart, sweet and complex. The cranberry is joined by raspberry and strawberry with just a hint of raisin at the end. Long pleasant finish—I really like this wine. Outstanding. 90-92 Points.

2011 Standing Stone Vineyards Vidal Ice: Retail $24.99 (375 ml). Standing Stone is located on the east side of Seneca Lake and although the current owners bought the winery in 1991, the vineyards date back another two decades.The wine is initially really tight on the nose, but I was eventually able to coax out a hint of honey and pineapple. On the palate, it really surprises with a burst of flavor, including some mango on the honey and pineapple. The finish is a bit short, but this is very nice. Very Good. 88-90 Points.

2012 Wagner Riesling Ice Wine: Retail $24.99 (375 ml). Wagner, also on Seneca Lake, is one of the older wineries in the region, opening their doors in 1979. This wine was quite impressive as a syrupy honey invitingly jumps out of the glass—rich and unctuous on the palate with an acidity that astonishes. The sweetness is there, though, to balance out the acidity nicely. This wine really rocks. Outstanding. 91-93 Points.20131119-091707.jpg

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Finger Lakes, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sparkling Wine, Traminette, Vidal, Wine and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

13 Responses to Virtual Tasting–Finger Lakes Sparkling and Dessert Wines

  1. Brendan Meara's avatar Brendan Meara says:

    My parents live in western New York so I’ll admit to some bias. I’m really happy to read that you enjoyed the Glenora. If you really like this region, I find the Niagara escarpment wines, especially on the Ontario side of the border, to have some stars.

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  2. taswineicons's avatar taswineicons says:

    Great to learn a little about the wines from Finger Lakes. I believe it is a wine region twinned with Tasmania, or a similar relationship. Seems the two regions have quite a bit in common. Cheers

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  3. PinotNinja's avatar PinotNinja says:

    This makes me SO EXCITED!! I went to college in Ithaca, which meant that most of our Sunday afternoons were spent doing circuits of the Finger Lakes wineries since many of them offered free wine tastings. I also might have danced on the tasting bar at Fox Run and gotten into a wide range of shenanigans, none of which are fit to print on the Internet, at the many fraternity formals I attended at Wagner…

    At the time, my motto might as well have been “If it’s for free, it’s for me,” but, while I might have started drinking wine because of my dire financial situation, I quickly grew to absolutely love it and all of the vineyards around there. Fantastic wine made by fantastic people, not to mention that many of the vineyards have absolutely stunning views of the lakes and are great places to laze around on a sunny afternoon.

    Have you tried Hermann J. Wiemer’s wines yet? If not, you should. They’re known for their Rieslings, but everything they put out, especially their sparkling wines, are top notch. And, as an added bonus, the winemaker and vineyard co-owner Fred was my husband’s college teammate and he’s an absolutely fantastic person who is doing great and interesting things with wine.

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    • If only we had met back then….
      I have not had any of Hermann J. Weimer’s wines–I will certainly try and find them now though!

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      • PinotNinja's avatar PinotNinja says:

        Hahaha! While I was definitely a hot mess in those days, I’m pretty sure we would have had a damn good time together. As for Wiemer, please try it — you won’t be disappointed. Also, next August/September you have to go to the Finger Lakes for a long weekend. I will help you plan the entire trip and I guarantee you and the kids will fall in love — wine, amazing farmer’s market, great hiking in the local parks, kayking on the lake, swimming under waterfalls, and the list goes on and on. If not for the heinous winters, I would move back in a second.

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  4. Frank @ Beach Walk Reflections's avatar aFrankAngle says:

    Good to know because we’ve discussed going there.

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  5. Fun!! Thanks for the wine review too…

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  6. Chris's avatar Chris says:

    I am also wondering if you tried Keuka Springs Riesling already. It is supposed to be an award-winning bottle. It is hard to get one from where I am at.

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