Not infrequently, people ask me to suggest a wine region to visit. Since I have visited quite a few (all over France, Italy, and Germany, California, Oregon, Washington, and New York, and parts of Chile and Argentina), it is not an inane question (although when they continue and ask that I essentially plan out their entire trip for them, well…).

One place that I never suggest? The Sierra Foothills region of California. The reason I never suggest it is simple: I have never been there. (Well, that is not entirely true as I visited a winery there a few years ago, but it was only for an afternoon and that is woefully little to plan someone else’s entire trip. For free.)

I hope that changes soon (the part about never really visiting the Sierra Foothills, not the part about a seeming endless stream of people wanting free vacation information; I mean, what could be better than that?). And when it does, one of the first places I want to visit is Montoliva Vineyards and Winery.

Why?

Well, the wines I have tried thus far have been fabulous (see below) and the winery’s website indicates that they produce wines from Italian grape varieties. That alone is not unique as there are a ton of folks in the U.S. making Sangiovese. What is unique is that Montoliva does not stop there.

According to the winery’s website, they also produce wines from “Aglianico, Nebbiolo, Teroldego, Negroamaro, Falanghina, Primitivo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Nero d’Avola, Montepulciano, Vermentino and Canaiolo Nero.”

Whoa.

The winery is located in Chicago Park, California (population 1,200), which is about an hour northeast of Sacramento and an hour and a half west of Lake Tahoe, in apparently beautiful surroundings, ripe for exploration by bike, I would assume. Add the fact that they only produce 1,800 cases a year (they hope to jump all the way up to 1,900 with the 2023 vintage), and Montoliva clearly achieves “must visit” status, at least for me.

A couple of months ago, I received the following wines to try with each seemingly better than the previous:

2021 Montoliva Falanghina, Nevada County, CA: Retail$28. Under non-Diam agglomerated stopper. Responsible bottle. I have not had a ton of wines from the Sierra Foothills in California, but those that have found their way to me, I have enjoyed. Such is the case with this Falanghina from Montoliva. Yellow, even close to golden in the glass with loads of citrus, yellow delicious apple, and even some grated orange zest. Fruity, more tree fruit (yellow apple and Bosc pear) than citrus, with a zingy tartness in search of food (linguine alle vongole, fresh oysters). There is also plenty of weight leading to a round, fleshy finish that lingers for minutes. Fantastic. Excellent. 92 Points.

2020 Montoliva Mark’s Magia, Nevada County, CA: Retail $35(?). All I could find about the composition was “a classic Puglian blend of Primitivo and Negroamaro.” Medium color with enticing aromas of dark fruit, anise, an herbal quality (basil? sage?) and a whole lot of verve. Yeah, the nose gets a whoa. The palate is nothing short of fantastic: impressive fruit, a singing zinginess, and near impeccable balance. I was not sure what to make of this wine from the Sierra Foothills but once I did? How cow. And another Whoa. I really, really dig this wine. Outstanding. 95 Points.

2019 Montoliva Sangiovese Estate Chicago Park, Nevada County, CA: Retail $35. 100% Sangiovese. This is my third wine from Montoliva now (and the second red) and this is less fleshy than the first two, it is a tad more reserved, a bit earthier, both of which are fine with me. Don’t get me wrong, there is still plenty of fruit here on both the nose (boysenberry and plum) and on the palate (more of the same) but there is also a bit of funk on both the nose and the palate, which also suits me just fine. As with the other two wines, the balance is also spot-on, rendering this another delightful wine. As well as a Whoa. Outstanding. 93 Points.

2018 Montoliva Teroldego, Nevada County, CA: Retail $35. Big Ass Bottle. Of the four Montoliva wines I was most excited to try this wine (despite the ridiculously heavy bottle). I have only ever seen Teroldego in Northern Italy and after the first three bottles from the producer, I knew this would likely be stellar. And it was. Fairly dark in the glass with equally dark aromas of blackberry and plum, dark earth. The palate is both Old World (great acidity and earth) and New World (brilliant, fleshy fruit) and the mélange is wonderful. But that bottle… Outstanding. 93 Points.