Following my list yesterday of my Top White Wines, here are the top red wines that I tasted this year. In order to be considered, the wine had to be received as a sample, rated well into the “Outstanding” category, and earned a “Whoa” (or at least came really close). No attention was paid to price, region, or whether it had a ridiculously heavy bottle (although those B.A.B. might be excluded in the future).

Once again, I tasted well over a thousand wines this year, and here are the top ten reds, at least according to me. As one would expect, there are several Pinots, a field blend of likely two dozen plus varieties, and, surprisingly, a couple of Cabs.

2015 Tenuta Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento, Tuscany, Italy: Retail $160. Under cork. 100% Sangiovese. Ridiculously Big Ass Bottle. Stupid bottle aside, this is pretty much gangbusters from the get-go, but it actually gets better with time open –Day 2 was amazing. Fairly dark, even for a Sangiovese, with blackberry, cassis, and plum a go-go. Joined by some juniper, basil, and just a touch of funk (I love the funk), this is close to gangbusters on the nose. Whoa. The palate is more focused, but the fruit dominates initially, soon taken over by the tartness on the mid-palate. Whoa. That harmony continues onto the finish where present, but subtle and integrated tannins assert themselves. Outstanding now, perhaps more in the short term (3-5 years). Outstanding. 95 Points.

2021 Cordant Winery Pinot Noir Radian Vineyard, Sta Rita Hills, CA: Retail $70. Heavy bottle (731g; 1lb 9.7oz). I like to think that I am fairly familiar with the Sta Rita Hills appellation even though it has been a few years since my last visit there. I would have to go back and look, but I believe this is my first experience with a wine from the Radian Vineyard, which is both the furthest south and west vineyard in the appellation. Given the proximity to the Pacific Ocean, the vineyard is quite chilly, particularly at night, and it shows. While this wine is quite fruity (black cherry, red currant), it is also rather dark, pushing right up against brooding. Whoa. Big, a bit burly, but short of boisterous, all of that fruit is held in check by a strong backbone of acidity, which, even given all the fruit, is what defines this wine. And that is the way it should be with Pinot, at least for me (and, frankly, you should agree). Outstanding. 95 Points.

2020 Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $120. Big. Ass. Bottle. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Kosher. I do not know Jeff Morgan, the co-owner and founding winemaker at Covenant. We have met once and exchanged a couple of emails (he owes me one, actually), but I like to think we would hit it off. His interests are varied and different from mine, but he is smart, seems to love a good argument, and makes great wine. Case in point. This fruit for this Cab comes from Napa (the winery is in Berkeley), and it is true to its origin: dark, close to brooding, with a bushel of blackberry and a cartload of cassis, this is fantastic on the nose. Throw in some earth, spice, black pepper, sage, and a healthy dose of verve, and this wine gets a solid Whoa before the first sip. The palate is magical with plenty of fruit which is wonderfully balanced by the zingy tartness and, well, have I already mentioned “verve”? I like to think I have only scratched the surface of my interactions with Jeff; I hope to touch on countless topics. Kosher wines, musical theory, what exactly is in his spice cabinet, and whether he prefers Monte Carlo to Manhattan.  Outstanding. 95 Points.

Although the wines did not make the Top List, my visit to Château des Tours in Brouillywas incredible.

2019 Kelly Fleming Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $125. Big. Ass. Bottle. Another Napa Cab, another bottle that is not only doing its part to kill the planet, it will murder a family of five with a simple toss (if you manage to lift the bottle, that is). Fairly dark in the glass even for a “pure” Cab, with notes of cassis, wild blackberry, plum, violet, black pepper, and sage; a beautiful mélange on the nose. Luscious and beautiful on the palate as well with all that dark fruit combined with spice, an herbal note, wonderful tartness, and enough tannin on the finish to suggest a lengthy life (10+ years). Listen, this is tasty and lovely now, so much so that it warrants a quick pop and pour. But. If one were willing to wait a bit? The reward would be worth it. Outstanding. 96 Points.

2020 Montoliva Mark’s Magia, Nevada County, CA: Retail $35(?). All I could find about the composition was “a classic Puglian blend of Primitivo and Negroamaro.” Medium color with enticing aromas of dark fruit, anise, an herbal quality (basil? sage?), and a whole lot of verve. Yeah, the nose gets a whoa. The palate is nothing short of fantastic: impressive fruit, a singing zinginess, and near impeccable balance. I was not sure what to make of this wine from the Sierra Foothills but once I did? How cow. And another Whoa. I really, really dig this wine. Outstanding. 95 Points.

2021 J. Rochioli Pinot Noir Russian River Valley, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $72. Of the 69 wines in my World’s Largest Blind Tasting of American Pinot Noir tasting, few of the wines I received excited me more than this Rochioli. On the day of the tasting, however, this was tighter than a…drum. I was getting very little on the nose and not much more on the palate. But. I could tell. This had the stuffing, it had the goods, but it slept through its alarm. On the following day, however, this beauty woke up and then some. Bright red fruit but also some earth and, curiously, some mocha on the nose. Yowza. Completely alive and vibrant on day two. The palate is rich, layered, fruity, and tart, and in near-perfect harmony. This. This is what I was expecting in the blind tasting, but it was nowhere to be found. On day 2? Oh, baby. This gets a whoa, a wow, and a Holy Cow. Outstanding. 95 Points.

2018 Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Rockaway, Alexander Valley, CA: Retail $90. Heavy bottle (731g; 1lb 9.8oz). 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the second of the Rodney Strong Single Vineyard trilogy and is perhaps my favorite. It might have something to do with spending a bit of time in the vineyard with the winemaking team a few years ago, but the wine is fantastic every year. Fairly dark in the glass with aromas of black plum, cassis, black pepper, and just a hint of pencil shavings on the backend of the nose. The palate is initially fruity, but by the time the mid-palate rolls around, there are secondary flavors of leather and baking spices. There is some evidence of tannins, but they are silky smooth and rather well-integrated. I have stated many times that I am not a big Cab kinda guy–I gravitate toward the Pinot end of the spectrum, but holy cow this is fantastic. Outstanding. 96 Points.

2020 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir Pinot de Ville, Putnam Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $65. Under cork. Delightfully light bottle. This is now the fourth vintage of this wine that I have sampled and I dare say that it is the best. It is so good, in fact, that I texted the winemaking team to make sure that my relative assessment was correct. Said winemaker, James MacPhail indicated that this was but the second best vintage of the Pinot de Ville. I decided to press a bit and James hinted that the best vintage of this wine had yet to be sent to me. Thus, being the seasoned researcher that I am, deduced that the best vintage must be the 2021 (or possibly the 2022?). What I do know is that this wine is gangbusters, perhaps “gangbusters on steroids” with rich black and wild cherry, vanilla highlights, subtle sweet basil, and a whole lot of verve. Whoa. The palate follows suit with all the nose portended and more, including impeccable tartness and a finish that rivals, well, you-know-where. Extraordinary. 97 Points.

2021 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir Fox Trot, Anderson Valley, CA: Retail $40. Heavy bottle. Agglomerated stopper. Last year was the first vintage of this wine and I tasted it twice; I loved it both times. A. Lot. So I was really excited when Kerry MacPhail (the “mysterious” half of the Tongue Dancer team) sent me this 2021. I popped it with my lovely wife as she watched the final episode of Ted Lasso (I had already seen it but I was trying to play the role of dutiful husband, natch). Well, the episode was better than the wine. Not by much, mind you, but while the show was pulling at the heartstrings and even a bit maudlin at the end, the wine was, well, boisterous and aggressive. So I put its cork back in it. Day Two? Holy mother of football. All that aggression had abated and what was left was Total Pinot (I was going to say “Total Wine” but for obvious reasons…). I understand that all reading this might not be Ted Lasso fans, so let me sum it up to you thusly: dark, even peppery fruit, with anise, basil, and even some cardamom on the nose (Day 2). The palate is fruity, yes, but also harmonious, with each element excelling and then demurring to the others. Look, I know I am waxing a bit about this wine but do yourself a favor: decant while watching one episode of your favorite binge-worthy show. Drink during the second. Thank me during the third. Cheers. Outstanding. 95 Points.

2019 Whitehall Lane Cabernet Sauvignon Leonardini Estate, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $85. Ridiculously Big. Ass. Bottle. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 6%, Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. According to the winemaker, Jason Moulton, this is the first estate wine that incorporates all five of the main Bordeaux varieties. And it is lovely. Fairly dark in color with fruit aromas of blackberry, cassis, and even plum. But there are also notes of spice and a compelling herbaceousness (which I love) of basil or even sage that adds depth to and complexity. The palate is rich, but short of unctuous, laden with fruit as well as spice, mocha, and just honest-to-goodness lusciousness. Add in a bit of tannic (but certainly mellow) grip on the finish? Look, there are certainly Napa-esque properties here, tons of them. But there are also nods to the Old World that make this one of the best (the best?) mélanges of the two styles that I have tried in a while. Whoa. Hate the bottle. Love the wine. Outstanding. 96 Points.

2019 Winner’s Circle Winery Pinot Noir Bon Pari Estate Russian River Valley: Retail $75. Delightfully responsible bottle. Whoa. Yowza. Wowza. medium color but an absolutely gorgeous nose of black cherry, fresh rose petals, bits of anise and red licorice, violet, and a slight meatiness. Holy crap. It only happens about three times a year, but this is a wine that I could just sniff in perpetuity and be happy. But, alas, the measure of a wine is not on the nose (for the most part) but on the palate. And holy mother of Jesus, this palate is off the charts: fruit, yes, but also tartness, breadth, depth, and charisma. Holy cow this is good, but it is so much better than “good”. This is potentially a life-changing wine, a Pinot that will cause you to reflect on all the choices you have made in your life and to question the “not-so-good” ones. Outstanding. 97 Points.

Honorable Mention

These wines, all Pinots, were tasted during my Fifth Annual World’s Largest Blind Tasting of American Pinot Noir. They all scored highly but since I was not able to sit with the wine and continually evaluate it over the course of an evening or a couple of days, I excluded them from contention. Yeah. I know. I am a jerk.

• 2021 Davis Bynum Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, CA ($45, 95 pts.)
• 2022 Silver Trident Pinot Noir Folly Rose, Sonoma Coast, CA ($65, 96 pts.)
• 2021 Nielson by Byron Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, CA ($20, 95 pts.)
• 2019 Pellegrini Family Vineyards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane, Russian River Valley, CA ($57, 96 pts.)
• 2019 Rodney Strong Pinot Noir Blue Wing Vineyard, Petaluma Gap, CA ($30, 96 pts.)
• 2021 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir Putnam Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($75, 96 pts.)

My Red Wine of the Year

I am not going to lie, this was tough. Really tough. I was absolutely blessed this year looking over these wines (and I had to eliminate several others otherwise this post would be 4,000 words). In the end, I opted for a field blend of dozens of varieties, the type of wine that is disappearing from California. Sadly, this wine also seems likely to disappear as Betsy and Bill Nachbaur will no longer be making their ACORN wines.

2019 ACORN Medley Alegría Vineyards, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $50. “20% Syrah, 20% Zinfandel, 18% Cinsaut, 8% Dolcetto, 7% Cabernet Franc, 5% Sangiovese, plus a dozen different muscats, Viognier, and other varieties.” We ordered this off the list at Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. I have tasted several vintages of this wine now and it continues to amaze me. Quite fruity, with a tangy balance, with just a touch of spice. I recently visited with the Nachbaurs at ACORN and I heard the bittersweet news that this will be the last vintage of the Medley as the Nachbaurs will be closing the winery. While that is certainly sad for the fan of fantastic wine, it is a good outcome for the venerable couple as they plan to take a little more time for themselves. Bravo, Betsy and Bill, as this is another stellar wine. Outstanding. 95 Points.