The Random Samples—3/8/2024

It is time for another edition of “Random Samples”–I occasionally get samples from marketing agencies and/or producers. These can often be grouped together into some sort of over-arching theme: Drink Them and It Will ComeSummer is Here, So That Means (More) Rosé, If It Doesn’t Sparkle, It Doesn’t Matter.

Other times, I get just a bottle or two that do not have any apparent connection or link. Instead of holding on to those bottles until the “right” combination comes along, I decided to link all these “random” bottles together, making their own category (and, being the math geek that I am, “random sample” has a bit of a double entendre).

2022 Domaine de l’Abbaye Côtes de Provence Clos Beylesse, France: Retail $35(?). Very Responsible Cobalt Blue bottle (431g; 15.2oz). 50% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 10% Rolle. This is my first experience with this brand, but far from my initiation into Provençal rosé. Speaking of that, it was refreshing to see the winery refer to the variety as “Rolle” since that is what it is called in the region (it is known as “Vermentino” just about everywhere else). As for the wine? Fairly pale with a copper-ish pink color and a largely floral nose (although some strawberry and cherry come through). The palate is delightful: good fruit, intense tartness, a wave of salinity, and even minerality. It does seem to have a kiss of sweetness, too, but it is barely perceptible with all that acidity. Look, this is a quintessential Provençal pink and it is delicious. Excellent. 92 Points. 

2020 Barra of Mendocino Zinfandel Reserve, Mendocino, CA: Retail $26. Very Responsible bottle (493g; 1lb 1.4oz). Synthetic stopper. 100% Zinfandel. Dark ruby, even quite dark with rich, ripe fruit aromas of plum, blackberry, and cassis with spice (cardamom), cedar, and a slight earthy element. The palate is fruity, even quite fruity with an initial wave of blackberry which really dominates all the way through to the finish. A hint of mocha sneaks in on the mid-palate along with a fairly intense tanginess, the latter of which vies to contain all that fruit. Look, this is certainly on the big side of a variety that is usually fairly big. Tons of fruit. Tons. But it is a ton of fun and likely better on its own. Excellent. 91 Points. 

NV Domaine Bousquet Brut Méthode Traditionelle, Tupungato, Argentina: Retail $15. 75% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir. I have been sampling Domaine Bousquet’s wines for many years now, but I think this is the first bottle of traditional method sparkling wine that I have tried (or at least written about). Brilliant straw color in the glass with a medium sparkle and plenty of tree fruit (green apple, baked pear) with more than a modicum of yeastiness. On the palate, it is tart, even quite tart with more of a citrus vibe than tree fruit. There is also a touch of sweetness, it’s subtle, but it is certainly there. Very Good. 88 Points. 

2019 Bryn Mawr Vineyards Tempranillo, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $50. Responsible (barely) Bottle (599g; 1lb 5.1oz). DIAM10 closure. 100% Tempranillo. While I have seen a bit of Tempranillo in California, I can safely say this was the first that I have seen from the Willamette Valley. Why? Well, from what I have gleaned over the years, Tempranillo needs heat and that is not a word many associate with Oregon. But. This wine is pretty fantastic. Fairly light in the glass, with aromas of blueberry and plum, a touch of toasted oak, and a touch meaty. The palate is more delicate, surprisingly, with tons of acidity and hints of fruit. On the mid-palate, however, the fruit comes in, not aggressively, but with some depth and it persists on to the above-average finish. This is not a boisterous, in-your-face kind of wine. At all. I really came around on this wine, particularly after some time open. So, a Tempranillo from the Willamette? Yeah, it works. Excellent. 91 Points.

2021 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $55. Heavy bottle (621g; 1lb 5.9oz). Under cork. So here we are. This 2021 represents the sixth vintage of the TDW Bacigalupi Chard that I have tried and, well, I am at a loss for words. Not in an over-the-top “this is the greatest Chardonnay I have ever tried” kinda way (more on that later), but I consider James and Kerry friends, and with each sip I think of them. I worry that this makes me biased as the MacPhails are fantastic in just about every way. But then it hit me: this is what wine should be; wine is so much more than what is in the glass. Sure, there is the color (light straw), the nose (lemon curd, a bit of spice, a mineral note), the palate (rich, unctuous flavors of lemon, oak, marzipan, and white pepper), and there’s the finish (long, luxurious, and lovely). But. What I have come to realize, accept, and even embrace, is that wine is about the people. Sure, many wine pundits will exclaim that wine should connote a sense of place, a terroir, a connection to the soil. But wine does not make itself, the “land” does not harvest, blend, or bottle it. No, people do that. And I can not think of two people in the world that I would rather share a bottle of wine with more than James and Kerry MacPhail. That is what makes wine so special. And this wine is special. Outstanding. 96 Points.

2021 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Pratt Vine Hill, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $65. Heavy bottle (Tongue Dancer has greatly reduced their bottle weights. 626g; 1lb 6.1oz). Under cork. This is now the second vintage of this wine and while I loved the 2020 (97 points), I am pretty sure I like this 2021 even more. I have been saying for a while that James and Kerry’s Tongue Dancer Chardonnays are other-worldly but it is true. And this Pratt Vine Hill? I place it firmly at the top of the list (although the Bacigalupi or the Ultra or the …). What makes me so giddy about this wine in particular? Easily it is the balance as each element is in near perfect concert with the others. The fruit (lemon curd), floral aspect (acacia), subtle oak notes, and a salty mineral aspect characterize the nose. On the palate, all of the above is joined by a lovely, unifying tartness that carries the fruit to a lengthy finish. In a world full of superlatives, this wine really does stand out. Extraordinary. 98 Points.

About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Argentina, Chardonnay, Cinsault/Cinsaut, Grenache, Mendocino, Provence, Rolle, Rosé, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, Sparkling Wine, Syrah, Vermentino, Wine, Zinfandel and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.