Not too long ago, a PR firm that I respect immensely, asked if I would like to partake in a Zoom call with a few producers from Victoria, Australia.

Sure.

No wait.

A) I hate really don’t like Zoom.

B) I am not all that familiar with the wines of Victoria.

C) Don’t all wines from “down under” focus on a particular part of a critter?

OK, I don’t really believe that last one, but there are certainly plenty of American wine drinkers who do. When Yellow Tail first came to the U.S., it flooded the market and remains perhaps the only Australian wine that is readily available in this country and it is cheap. Really cheap. And you certainly get what you pay for.

On the other end of the spectrum, many wine lovers know about what has been considered one of Australia’s best wines, Penfold’s Grange, a Shiraz that usually receives high scores from the critics and usually runs around $700/bottle.

In between those two extremes, it is fairly difficult to find much wine from Australia on the shelves of any wine shop in the U.S. Well, the winemakers from Victoria, Australia are trying to change that.

Victoria ranks third in total wine production in Australia, but first in the number of wineries, with over 600 producers. It is also the oldest wine region in the country with the first vines planted in the middle of the 19th Century.

This is the first set of wines that I have tried from the region, with more soon to follow.

2019 Best’s Great Western Sparkling Shiraz, Great Western, Victoria, Australia: Retail $35. Very Heavy bottle (892g; 1lb 15.4oz). 100% Shiraz. I have only had a few sparkling reds over the years and they have all been a bit of a novelty. Not that they were not serious wines but there are not a ton of them so the reference points are limited. This is a dark, even very dark, magenta with plenty of blackberry and plum. The palate is dark, fruity, and both tart and a bit brooding, if that is possible? Again, not a ton of reference points here, but this is certainly a fun, pleasant quaff. I served it chilled which seemed to work; this would be great as an apéritif or with a charcuterie board. Very Good. 89 Points.

2021 Fowles Wine Pinot Noir Farm to Table, Nagambie Lakes, Victoria, Australia: Retail $17. Very Responsible bottle (427g; 15oz). Under screw cap. I have not had many Pinots from Australia, at least wines that are worth writing about in this space. Really light in color. Really light. In fact, I could probably convince you this was a rosé, particularly if it were a little chilled and you were a little hammered. Wild cherry and a bit of funk on the nose with a meaty, salty note that I found enticing. On the palate, this is also quite light, and fans of California Pinot would find this “thin” (even really thin), but I think it’s enchanting: subtle fruit, intense tartness, and above-average length. As I hinted, if you are into more robust, juicy Pinots, this is not it, but if you are looking at a more introspective wine, one that would pair well with roast chicken? Bingo. Excellent. 91 Points.

2021 All Saints Estate Durif, Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia: Retail $25. Responsible bottle (550g; 1lb 3.4oz). Under screw cap. 100% Petite Sirah. The kind folks at All Saints decided to use the less well-known “Durif” for whatever reason (I should have asked when I had them on Zoom, but I am the worst). Very dark in the glass, particularly when following the Farm to Table Pinot Noir. Dark, quite dark, even brooding in the glass with, as one would expect, dark (even really dark) fruit: blackberry, plum cassis. Yowza. There is also quite a bit of spice and a touch of herb: cardamom, black pepper, and sage. I don’t like Petite Sirah, generally, but this is fantastic as the palate is fruity (even really fruity), but there is plenty of tartness resulting in a wonderful balance. OK. Whoa. Outstanding. 93 Points.

2021 Fowles Wine Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Wild Ferment Chardonnay, Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria, Australia: Retail $35. Ridiculously Heavy Bottle (829g; 1lb 13.2oz). Under screw cap. Fermented and aged in French oak, 30% new. The oak is prevalent on the nose with some lemon curd and vanilla eventually sneaking through. On the palate, the oak is much less noticeable with plenty of round, luscious fruit, a sneaky tartness, and yes, a bit of oak on the finish. This wine is certainly looking for a bit of food, perhaps some seafood risotto, chicken alfredo, or even a nice pork tenderloin. Very nice. Excellent. 90 Points.

NV All Saints Estate Muscat Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia: Retail $18. From 375ml. Heavy bottle. 100% Muscat. Dark in color and aromas, almost an amber brown with deep caramel and toasted walnut aromas. The palate is rich and intense with plenty of both the caramel and walnut that expressed themselves on the nose. There is also a bit of grittiness on the finish that adds both character and intrigue. We do not drink many dessert wines these days, but this is well-balanced, delightful, and a solid effort, but what to pair? Maybe a little Tarte Tatin? Excellent. 91 Points.