As many of you may know, I studied in Alsace for a year way back when. It was there that I had my first-ever glass of wine (at least that is how I chose to organize my memories). Ever since I have considered Alsace my second “home” of sorts and while I do not get back there as much as I would like, I do find bits of my adopted homeland all around me.

In Strasbourg (the capital of Alsace), I was living with a family who were great fans of the wines of the region (they were also great fans of the Third Reich, but that is a story for another time). There are essentially seven varieties grown in Alsace, five of which are fairly easily found planted in other regions as well.

Recently, I received a few samples from one of my favorite producers in Oregon, Stoller Family Estate (who also owns Chehalem) and a few bottles immediately grabbed my attention: they were Oregon versions of a few of the wines of Alsace.

So today, instead of my normal Random Samples post, I offer up these Alsatian varieties, which are faring quite well in the Willamette Valley, thank you very much.

The first wine is made from Pinot Gris, which in Alsace is produced as a richer, full-bodied wine, a big improvement over the rather dull and listless (in general) counterpart in Italy, Pinot Grigio.

2023 Chehalem Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $20. Very Responsible Bottle (461g; 16.2oz). Under screw cap. There is not a ton of Pinot Gris made in this country (although the Willamette Valley clearly leads the way) but there is quite a bit of it in Alsace, where I have spent a bit of time, and of course in Italy, where it is largely regrettable. Thus, two things happen when I find an American Pinot Gris, I open it with glee and then, I compare it with the wines of Europe. A bit rash on both accounts. But this one merits it. Tons of citrus and and Bosc pear on the nose along with a healthy dose of honeysuckle and a hint of minerality. The palate is refreshing and subtle, but with all the requisite parts for a fantastic Gris: expressive fruit, a zippy tang, and a lasting finish. Bravo. Excellent. 91 Points.

The second wine is made with Pinot Noir, a rising star in the vineyards of Alsace, but this wine is vinified as a white (there is no skin contact, which is how most red wines obtain color). White Pinot Noir is relatively rare in the U.S. and unheard of (as far as I can tell) in Alsace still wines.

2021 Stoller Estate White Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $40. Very Heavy Bottle (701g; 24.7oz). There is not a lot of white Pinot Noir on the market, so when I see one, I gravitate toward it with both hands. And this one is worthy of my obsession. Rich peach and pear on the palate along with some mandarin rind and white hyacinth. Yowza. The palate is rich, even incredibly rich, with intense fruit, incredible weight, and plenty of zing. Yowza. This is a pretty powerful white. Wait, is it a red? Either way, it’s fantastic. Excellent. 92 Points.

These last two wines are made of Pinot Blanc, which for whatever reason are a bit of the red-headed stepchild of Alsace. The grape does not receive Grand Cru status in Alsace but can produce some delightful wines, as shown in these two examples.

2022 Chehalem Pinot Blanc Chehalem Estate Vineyard, Chehalem Mountains, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $35. Ridiculously Responsible Bottle (443g; 15.6oz). Under DIAM. I could probably count on one hand the number of domestic Pinot Blancs I have tried and still be able to snap my fingers freely. Why? I have no idea. While studying in Alsace, it was always a solid go-to wine since it was almost always stellar and always cheap (it does not have Grand Cru status in Alsace). While this wine is not my definition of “cheap” it certainly is stellar. Nearly clear in color in the glass with tree fruit bouncing out of the glass along with lemon zest and a hint of minerality. The palate is tart, lively, and fun, with plenty of lemon and dried apricot, that minerality, and a subtle herbal aspect that really works. Make more Pinot Blanc, please! Outstanding. 93 Points.

2021 Stoller Pinot Blanc Single Acre, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, OR: Retail $35. Very Responsible Bottle (449g; 15.8oz). 100% Pinot Blanc. Sadly, this concludes my little Alsatian tour of the Stoller wines (although since they sent me two bottles of each wine, I will get to do it all over again at some point), but I certainly saved one of the best for last with this gem. As I mentioned in the Chehalem note, Pinot Blanc is a bit of the red-headed stepchild in the vineyards of Alsace. Since it is not given Grand Cru status, Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer all rank ahead of little old Blanc in stature. And with the recent ascendance of Pinot Noir in the region (which I believe will soon reach the lofty Grand Cru rank, thank you global scorching), Pinot Blanc will be even further marginalized. But should it? Sure, there are some regrettable iterations coming out of Italy (and some very good ones, too), but those that I have tasted from Oregon? Off the charts tasty. Case in point: ripe without being unctuous, rich without being over-the-top, and full-bodied without being flabby, this wine really hits all the notes, particularly as it warms a bit (serve at around 50°F, 10°C). Yeah, this is delightful. Its French cousin could learn a lot from this little American. Outstanding. 94 Points.