What I’ve Been Drinking in France 10/14/2024

“It is very difficult to eat poorly in France.” While certainly not impossible, I stand by that statement that I made a while ago. Sure, you can search out fast food joints or rather seedy looking restaurants, but by and large, the “average” restaurant in France puts out way better food than the “average” restaurant in the U.S.

It is easier, however, to drink poorly in the country, but with a bit of effort, most restaurants that put even the slightest interest in their wine list, no matter how small, will have a gem or two that will certainly add to the meal.

After a week on the road in a rather remote part of France, I still stand by those words. But after I try bottle after bottle of inexpensive local wines, I am starting to hedge on the “easy to drink poorly” (at least when it comes to wine) portion of the assertion.

I spent last week cycling across the southwestern part of France, starting in Souillac. Here are three of the wines I enjoyed with their respective dinners on the trip thus far.

2022 Château des Mouchères, Pic Saint-Loup, Languedoc, France: Retail $15€, Restaurant 30€. 65% Syrah, 35% Grenache. It was my first time to Sainte Enimie in the Gorges du Tarn and everything about this place is amazing. The descent into town was dangerous because I kept taking my eyes of the road while I was hurtling down at break neck speed to look at the incredible scenery. Then there was the town itself, particularly the incredibly preserved medieval part of the small village. Amazing. Dinner at l’Auberge du Moulin was also superb and I was advised that this wine would pair well with my duck. And it did. Fruity, even really fruity, with great red and black fruit on both the nose and the palate. The Syrah is also lending a nice peppery aspect that really presents itself just before the finish.It isn’t exactly from the region, but I consider it close enough, as I am still swayed by the astounding beauty of the surroundings. Fantastic. Excellent. 91 Points.

The ride, the town, the meal, all were great in Sainte Enimie, which included this Magret de Canard.

 

2023 Cave de Vignerons Reunis des Crus Faugères Rosé Mas Olivier, Faugères, Languedoc, France: Retail 8€. Restaurant 20€. Synthetic (Nomacorc, ugh) stopper. As many of you know by now, I am in France, riding my way across the south central part of the country. I will have completed 300 miles in a week by Sunday (I hope) and each night I have tried to have a wine from the region where I was staying. Tonight, I am in Meyrueis which, honestly, is a bit grim. No real history (at least when compared to what I have been seeing), not a particularly “cute” town, and the restaurant options made me question if I really was in France, the (once?) gastronomic capital of the world. Yeah, it was looking bleak. So bleak, in fact, that I did something I never do in France: I ordered a pizza at a restaurant. The pizza was certainly tasty as was this rosé from Faugères: medium to light in color with a slight orange tint and rich tree fruit aromas leap from the glass. The palate is fruity above all, but also fun and lively with a racy acidity. There is a chalky aspect, too, which I normally eschew, but here, it really works. Excellent. 91 Points.

In Meyrueis, the restaurant choices were minimal, so on the first night I opted for a pizza. Which was good, but enormous.

2023 Château De Castelnau Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc, France: Retail 8€. Restaurant 20€. It was a long day, over 80 kilometers, up and down the whole ride (over 4,300 feet in total). I did not want to think much about dinner, but I was starving so I went to the same restaurant where I ate the previous night. Last night pizza, tonight pasta. Yeah, there was not much in the way of interesting food in Meyrueis, so I opted for comfort. The food was not bad, even on the verge of good and the wine did not disappoint, either. Not much info on this wine online so I am guessing that this comes from a cooperative near Castelnau, a town that I rode past this week (I did not visit the castle since it would have required another big hill and I have lived in Houston for the last eight years where hills are outlawed). Fairly pale in the glass with plenty of citrus and tart apple on the nose. The palate certainly lives up to the name; it is quite tart, stinging the lip, the tongue, and anything else that gets involved. The food, the wine, and the ride all hit the mark today. Excellent. 90 Points.

 

 

 

 

 

Unknown's avatar

About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Bergerac, Chenin Blanc, Fer Servadou, Gamay, Mauzac, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Syrah, Wine. Bookmark the permalink.

1 Response to What I’ve Been Drinking in France 10/14/2024

  1. Chef Mimi's avatar Chef Mimi says:

    You’re supposed to have cassoulet in Castelnau! No, I read. You didn’t stop. There aren’t any hills to speak of in Oklahoma, either. People talk about the “mountains” in Southeastern OK. 🙄

    Liked by 1 person

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.