There are few people on this planet that would consider me a “wine expert”, far fewer would call me a “South American wine expert” an I can assure you that not one single person would contend that I am a “Uruguayan wine expert.”

But.

I like to think of myself as a pretty good student (the University of Pennsylvania does not dole out Ph.D. degrees to just anyone), so when I was sent a slew of wines from the rather tiny country of Uruguay (it is roughly the same size as Wisconsin or Washington), I decided that I would try to find out a bit more.

Uruguay is sandwiched between the much larger Brazil to the northeast and Argentina to the west, and has been an independent country since 1828. Generally known for its progressive politics, the country did go through just over a decade of oppressive military rule (1973-85).

From blog.usac.edu

A football (soccer) crazed country, Uruguay has as many World Cup victories (2) as the French. Sure, those include the very first World Cup (1930) and another two decades later (1950), but the country won the Under-20 FIFA World Cup last summer in neighboring Argentina, so…

When it comes to wine, about 75% of Uruguayan wine production comes from the two wine regions right around the country’s capital Montevideo: Canalones (roughly 60% of production) and Montevideo (yes, the same name as the capital, with about 15% of total production).

Tannat, which was brought to the country in the 1870s by French Basque immigrants, constitutes close to 40% of the vineyards planted today, with other international varieties becoming increasingly important.

Last year, I was sent nine wines from Uruguay for a Zoom call and I published notes on the white wines and red wines (which, not surprisingly, included several Tannats).

Last month, I had yet another Zoom with the fine people from Uruguay and although I have never visited the region, I do feel that I am becoming a bit more familiar with the wines. This particular webinar focused on whites from the coastal region of the country, which lies on the Atlantic Ocean (but you knew that already…).

2023 Los Cerros de San Juan Riesling Familie Lahusen Single Vineyard, Costas del San Juan, Uruguay: Retail $25. Screw cap. 1.6 g/l residual sugar. Only 10 total acres of Riesling are planted in Uruguay and to make this even a bit more rare, the wine is aged in amphora. An unusual Riesling in that there are not the typical markers here: no petrol to speak of, no intense citrus. Loads of honeysuckle and acacia with a decided salinity on the nose. The palate comes off dry and tart with nice fruit and a lengthy finish. An interesting wine. Very Good. 89 Points.

2023 Viña Overground Viognier, Progreso, Uruguay: Retail $26. Under agglomerated stopper. There is not much Viognier planted in Uruguay either and this is unlike any Viognier I have tried. There is no intense floral aspect here so  one can pick up the lemon rind and seashell a lot easier with this wine. Nice and tart with great citrus and a bit of weight. I would never guess that this was a Viognier, so how to rate it? I have no idea, but I like it. Excellent. 90 Points.

2024 Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc, Montevideo, Uruguay: Retail $16. Under screw cap. Straw, close to yellow in the glass, A classic SB nose but without the cat pee/freshly cut grass that one finds in some SB, particularly in New Zealand. Bright citrus, a touch of salinity and a hint of an herbal aspect (basil?). The palate is lean and focused with a lovely acidity, it drops off a bit on the finish, but this is a great example of the variety. Very Good. 89 Points.

2024 Bodega Bouza Albariño, Garzón, Uruguay: Retail $28. Under screw cap. Albariño might be Uruguay’s signature white grape (Tannat certainly fills that role on the red side). Bright straw with lovely pear and peach aromas on the nose, rich and inviting. Surprisingly round–most Albariños I have had were certainly acid-driven–with luscious fruit and a weighty mouthfeel. This makes one think about what an Albariño might be if more winemakers would branch out a bit. Excellent. 92 Points.

2024 Familia Deicas Albariño Atlántico Sur, Juanicó, Canelones, Sierras de Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay: Retail $20. Very Responsible Bottle (480g; 16.9oz). Under screw cap. Light, brilliant straw color in the glass with a rich, fruity nose of tree fruit: some golden apple, white peach, maybe even apricot. The palate is fruity and rich with layers of fruit and a roundness that one does not usually find in Albariño. A bit of orange blossom and a tiny hint of orange rind are introduced on the mid-palate. The finish is lengthy and complex, making me wonder if this wine really is only twenty bucks? Outstanding. 94 Points.

2023 Bodega Garzón Albariño Single Vineyard, Las Violetas, Canelones, Melilla, Montevideo, Uruguay: Retail $25. Responsible Bottle (537g; 19oz). Under cork. 15 year-old vines. Brilliant straw in the glass with lime and lime zest that leap out of the glass, really weighty. The palate is rich and voluptuous without being over-bearing and pushy. “White peaches made love to acacia flowers in a seashell bed.” That is how the U.S. representative described the wine (more or less) and I have to agree, this is an amazing wine. Outstanding. 95 Points.