The Trouble with Wine Writing Today

Last October, on an otherwise perfectly normal Friday, I published a piece in this space bemoaning the current state of wine writing. In that post, I mentioned six articles that I had come across that were particularly painful to read for one reason or another.

Well, unfortunately, I am back, a scant five months later, to point out another batch of journalistic gems that border on malpractice. As I mentioned last October, I do not pretend to be some sort of grand poohbah when it comes to writing in general or the subject of wine in particular. I also understand that many of these writers are struggling to get by in a world now seemingly dominated by “influencers” and soon to be overrun by artificial intelligence.

But.

Come on.

Among wine consumers, there appears to be a burning question that needs to be addressed repeatedly: how many glasses of wine are in a bottle? In October, I lamented the fact that some poor schmuck wrote over 600 words, ultimately arriving at the conclusion “It depends on how big a glass of wine you pour.” This “new” article, which appeared in Food and Wine, was entitled “How many glasses of wine are in a bottle? The answer may surprise you.”

Oh boy. My first response was “no, it will not surprise me, not even slightly, since, well, math.” But it got worse. The subtitle? “It’s a more complicated question than you might think.” Again. No, it is not complicated and really does not require much thought other than, well, math. Yet this author typed out over 600 words and once again came to the shocking conclusion: it depends.

I need a moment of zen. Here is a photo of my bike and the Gorges du Tarn. Namaste.

The next literary gem comes from The Takeout, about which I know very little (and after a quick perusal of the site, it appears a large portion of the content of the site is dedicated to fast food). This article, “Yes, McDonald’s can be paired with wine”, seemed to fall in line with the site’s general ethos. The basis of the author’s article, it seems, was an influencer’s take on the subject. So I went to the influencer’s “Insta” to delve a bit deeper.

After seeing her post “Recent outfits I’ve worn in wine country and what I’d rate them” (one skirt was rated “100000/10” in case you were wondering) I cried a little but it made the McDonald’s pairing “article” seem a little less offensive. A little. In this article, the author stresses that one needs to assess the “fat content…, acidity, flavor intensity, and spice level” of the menu item before determining the perfect pairing.

If you are evaluating the fat content of a Big Mac in order to choose the “right wine”, you are both missing the point and clearly have issues. Let me make it simple: if you are looking to pair wine with your Double Quarter Pounder, you are clearly single (or in a destructive relationship) and likely depressed. Buy a cheap Prosecco and pray that no one sees you.

Wine pairing made simple: when in doubt, opt for champagne.

Next up, a couple of articles from Business Insider, written by a tasting room employee (“Mistakes people make at a wine tasting, from a server” and “Things more people should do at a wine tasting, from a server”). Having visited countless tasting rooms over the years, I clicked to make sure I was not making a fool of myself (always a possibility, just ask my wife). It turns out that the two articles were essentially the same (did she get paid for both?). And it boiled down to three things: don’t be rude, don’t be messy, and leave a tip. There, I saved you some time.

Tasting room etiquette? Don’t be a jerk.

“Skip The Wine And Get Your Host Another Bougie Foodie Gift” is another article from that bastion of journalistic excellence, The Takeout. (Yes, I clicked on a link that included the word “Bougie” and I am embarrassed by it.) Basically, the author states that it is risky to bring a bottle of wine as a gift to a dinner party and instead suggests bringing a bottle of olive oil. OK, I love good olive oil as much as the next guy, and I wouldn’t actually mind it as a gift, but the premiss is a non-starter; a bottle of wine is an appropriate gift to a dinner party (unless, of course, you know that the host doesn’t drink, but then why would you be going there in the first place?).

There also seems to be considerable angst for some when they think about gifting a bottle of wine to a known “wine guy” (like, I dunno, me?). I have written about this before, and my short answer is: don’t worry about it at all, wine people love wine, and as long as it is not a “gag gift” (think Mad Dog 20/20), you will be fine.

The Pantheon. A surprise trip to Paris also makes a great gift, just saying.

Last, I came across a slew of articles in TastingTable and, yes, The Takeout with grandiose titles such as “The Absolute Best Wine Pairing For Classic Chili”, “The Ultimate Wine Pairing for Tortilla Soup”, and “The Ultimate Wine Pairing For Rich And Creamy Chicken Pot Pie”. There were a ton of such articles, a ton, and each one cited our favorite influencer (of McDonald’s pairing fame above) as the source of the article. And despite the promise of a singular answer for each pairing, the author offered a range of options as “absolute best” or “ultimate” pairings. I get it, it’s all clickbait (and it worked on me) but it is also sloppy writing, no? If you state there is an “absolute best” then proceed to give some broad generalizations (“maybe a Cabernet Sauvignon that isn’t too tannic, or a Merlot from a good producer”), you really are just throwing at a dartboard, aren’t you?

Way too much time is spent on “perfect pairings” in my opinion. Eat what you want and drink what you want. Pretty simple.

Unfortunately, I will be back with more soon. Far too soon.

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About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
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3 Responses to The Trouble with Wine Writing Today

  1. I’m a non-expert wine writer who gets confused with being an influencer wanna-be. These stories sound to me like either attempts at humor, or someone who just wants to shout out certain wines (and fast food joints) for free stuff. I run into these folks all around as I go about to wineries, and I laugh at them. I can pay for my wine and my cheeseboard, and I write what I really think, or don’t write if its not really good at all. It’s kind of insulting – comp my tasting and bottle and I’ll post cute pics and a nice review and you will get 4,366 likes in 2 hours. Whatever.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Yeah, you pretty much nailed it, but sadly, I think all of the articles were meant to be serious. The wine writing/blogging world has changed a ton in my 13 years doing it, and particularly since COVID. Now, it seems as if it is an Instagram/TikTok driven arena where there is little concern about what is actually in the bottle or how it got there. Just wear a tight shirt and hold the bottle up!

      Liked by 1 person

  2. As always, and entertaining and thoughtful read Jeff!

    Liked by 1 person

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