A couple of weeks ago, I was included in a group of journalists that were sent The Governor’s Cup Case, the top twelve wines from the “The Virginia Governor’s Cup, one of the most stringent competitions in the US, is hosted by the Virginia Wineries Association, in partnership with the Virginia Wine Board and the Virginia Vineyards Association.” No one asked me, but I think this is a brilliant idea and wondered why more states don’t do the same. I guess that is a topic for another post. There were six whites, five reds, and one sparkling wine in the case, I published the notes for the first six that I tried last week, and here are the remaining notes.
This is my first significant foray into the wines of Virginia, and based on these stellar bottles, I certainly hope it is not my last.
2023 Valley Road Vineyards Petit Manseng, Virginia: Retail $31. Very Responsible Bottle (419g; 14.8oz). Under screw cap. While Petit Manseng is often used in dessert wine, there are more vintners interested in producing it in a drier style. After looking online a bit, I could not find the residual sugar on this wine, and while it is far from “sweet”, it certainly seems above dry. That might be due, at least in part, to the abundance of fruit in this near-golden wine. Tropical fruit abounds, with doses of hyacinth, honeycomb, and lychee. As mentioned, the palate comes off as a bit sweet, but it works with the tangy acidity which comes in at the jump and lasts through the finish. I do not have a ton of PM, but this is a lovely introduction, of sorts. Excellent. 91 Points.
2023 Paradise Springs Cabernet Franc, Brown Bear Vineyard, Shenandoah Valley, Virginia: Retail $43. Heavy Bottle (614g; 21.6oz). There is no indication on either the bottle or the website as to whether this is 100% Cab Franc, so I am just going to assume that it is. This is now the eighth bottle from the Virginia’s Governor’s Case that I have opened, and another solid wine. Blackberry, plum, and cassis on the nose with a slight herbal note (mint), but not a ton in the way of pyrazines, which I associate with the variety. The palate is fruity and fun, with an elevated spice profile and plenty of acidity. Cab Franc, when done well, is a delight. And this is delightful. Excellent. 92 Points.
2023 The Winery at La Grange Petit Manseng Catherine’s Vineyard, Virginia: Retail $37. Responsible Bottle (501g; 17.6oz). This is now the ninth(?) wine I have tried from the Governor’s Case and it might be the best Petit Manseng I have ever had. Now, granted, I do not drink a ton of PM. In fact, I could likely count on one hand the number of dry wines from the variety that I have come across. Nonetheless, this is Outstanding. Golden in the glass with notes of honeyed pineapple, Maracona Almonds, and white hyacinth in the glass; it would be easy to think this is a dessert-style wine based on the aroma profile. While I believe this is not completely dry (I could not find the information online), it is certainly not “sweet” by any means. It is incredibly rich, concentrated, and layered with complexity. This might be a tough place to start for those unfamiliar with the variety as I feel others would struggle to keep up with this as a precedent. Outstanding. 94 Points.
2023 DuCard Vineyards Cabernet Franc Vintner’s Reserve, Virginia: Retail $60. Very Responsible Bottle (420g; 14.8oz). This is the tenth bottle I’ve cracked in the Virginia’s Governor’s Case and the second Cabernet Franc. For me? This is more Cab Franc-y, if that makes sense; it’s dark in the glass with plenty of black fruit (cassis, blackberry, plum), some earthiness, a floral aspect, and a healthy herbal shot. I love the greenness that Cab Franc exhibits and while this stops short of the more aggressive green pepper aspect that many have, I really think this is a vital component to what the variety is. The palate is rich, fruity, spicy, earthy, loaded with sweet basil, and plenty of verve. Yeah, for me? This is what I want my Cab Franc to be–it shouldn’t try to be a Cabernet Sauvignon, it is what it is. And when done right and with that in mind, it can be glorious. Witness. Outstanding. 94 Points.
2017 Barboursville Vineyards Octagon, Monticello, Virginia: Retail $95. Heavy Bottle (620g; 21.8oz). 62% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot. The penultimate bottle in the Governor’s Case that I was sent a few weeks ago, and it is tasty. Expensive, but tasty. Dark in color and in fruit aromas (blackberry, cassis), but also some red(ish) fruit with some raspberry and even black cherry (wait, is that a black or red fruit?). There is also some earth, mocha, and spice as well on the nose, and most of that all transports onto the palate as well. Fruity, even really fruity (but mostly dark fruit here) with spice, earth, dark chocolate, and some very subtle tannins. Dark, sure, even on the verge of brooding, but also magnificent. Outstanding. 93 Points.
2023 Veritas Vineyard Monticello White, Monticello, Virginia: Retail $35. Heavy Bottle (647g; 22.7oz). 50% Chardonnay, 22% Viognier, 17% Sauvignon Blanc, and 11% Petit Manseng. This is the twelfth and final bottle in the Governor’s Case that I received to review and even though it the varietal composition does not support this contention, it tastes like a classic Rhone blend. Oodles of fruit on the nose, mostly tropical and citrus, but whoa, there is a ton going on here. Yellow, on the verge of golden with tons of honeyed pineapple, lychee, a bit of lemon, and tons of white flower. Yowza. The plate is intensely rich and layered with honey, fruit, marzipan, a real overload to the senses. But in the end? It really works, held together with the acidity and complexity. Yowza. Outstanding. 95 Points.







So happy you tasted through this case. I have yet to try DuCard’s 23 Dab Franc, but my friends are raving about it. It’s also been some time since I’ve had LaGrange’s PM, and Seth does a great job with their wines, and is making some really good stuff.
Valley Road has always surprised me – they’re a bit of a dark horse because they’re somewhat smaller and less well known, but they make tremendous Albariño and this Petit Manseng was pretty nice. I think they are worth watching, especially since Corry Craighill started making their wines with (I think) 2023 vintage.
Keep tasting your way through VA!
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