This is the last (at least for now) in a series of articles reviewing the Kirkland wines from Costco. Previously, I reviewed the sparkling and the white wines available at my local Costco here in Houston, and today I publish the notes from the reds. Even though I tasted through thirteen bottles, there are still some Kirkland wines that I have not tried, notably a Rioja and a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (I have also heard rumors of a Premier Cru Chablis, but those have not been verified) that are not currently available at my store.

I am by no means a habitual Costco shopper; I go there perhaps a couple of times a month for such exciting products as salt, pepper, and dog food. I bought a set of tires there (and have been thoroughly satisfied), and my in-laws have bought hearing aids there (which I would not advise based on their experience).

As I mentioned in a previous post, just about every time I step foot in a Costco, I will be sure to swing by the wine section for at least a quick perusal. There was a time, that I would leave the store with at least a dozen bottles (or more), whether I needed them or not (spoiler: I never “needed” them). Now? I rarely buy any wine at the huge retailer for the simple reason that I don’t find the pricing all that compelling.

The advantage, if there really is one, to buying anything at Costco is, of course, buying in bulk. Costco has a number of items in giant sizes or bundled together in such a way that it would require you to have a family of 37 in order to consume it all before it expired. But that model really doesn’t work with wine.

Sure, I guess Costco could specialize in large format bottles, but wine, once opened, doesn’t typically have much of a shelf life. It’s not like that huge jar of Jiffy peanut butter or even that one gallon jug of canola oil. Once opened, it is better to consume a bottle of wine within a day or two. So selling only five liter bottles doesn’t make much sense.

Even though Costco buys, presumably, palates of wine from a given producer, their pricing does not (at least to me) represent much of a savings. In fact, outside of the low-end (read under about $15) wines, I find most of the wines at Costco to be about the same price or even higher than at other retailers here in Houston. And unlike those other stores, Costco curiously offers no volume discount; it is pretty standard now to get at least an additional 10% (or more) off when purchasing at least six bottles at just about every retailer I frequent.

There is an exception, of course, and that comes with the Kirkland brand wines that are only available at Costco. The giant retailer partners with some reputable winemakers around the world to produce, bottle, and market some pretty darned good wines at near remarkable prices. Sure, there are a few “average” wines among the bunch, but by and large, I have found the Kirkland brand wines to be both tasty and quite inexpensive.

But there is a problem, there is always a problem.

While I have no problem using Kirkland condiments and my dog does not seem to mind the Costco brand dog food, do I really want to serve a Kirkland wine to guests? I know that I am an insufferable, pretentious wine snob (I am pretty sure there is a few redundancies in there), but I just have a hard time serving a wine that I purchased in a “shop” that smells like Goodyear tires.

There are also, at least for me, vestiges of the romance of opening a bottle of wine, made by (at least in my mind), a well-weathered couple in a remote region of Europe. “Kirkland Signature” does not really capture that same vibe.

Still, it is hard to argue with what is actually in the bottle. Most of the Kirkland wines I have tried have been pretty solid and very affordable. Maybe the next time I need to buy salt, I will pick up a few Kirkland wines for when it’s just my dog and me having dinner.

2024 Kirkland Signature Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Côtes de Provence, France: Retail $11. Responsible Bottle (473g; 16.6oz). This is now my eighth(?) bottle of Kirkland Signature and while all have been decent to more than that, and this falls into that spectrum. It is not my style of Pinot, it is big, a bit boisterous, and lacks the tartness that I think it is vital for a proper expression of the variety. But I think this has its audience. Don’t get me wrong, any lover of red Burgundy is going to find this, well, close to undrinkable, but for those who love, say, Meomi, or Elouan, this is certainly an improvement on those two. Sure, it won’t change your life, but if you want an over-the-top Pinot that still has at least some character, this is a safe chance at only eleven bucks. Very Good. 87 Points.

2024 Kirkland Signature Old Vine Zinfandel, Sonoma County, CA: Retail $10. Responsible Bottle (554g; 19.5oz). Under agglomerated cork. The reviews of this wine seem to be all over the place, which is a bit confusing since this is another solid effort from the Kirkland brand. Medium to dark in color in the glass, with plenty of red berry and black fruit on the nose, along with plenty of spice (black pepper, clove) and an herbal note (sweet basil). Nice. The palate is quite fruity, as one would expect from the variety, plus a bit of mocha and a hint of oak. Yes, the acidity struggles to keep up, but it does, eventually, on the mid-palate, and continues to the finish, which also has a bit of earth and soft tannins. Excellent. 90 Points.

2023 Kirkland Signature Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, CA: Retail $7. Responsible Bottle (545g; 19.2oz). Under agglomerated stopper. 100%(?) Cabernet Sauvignon. Rather dark in color in the glass with equally dark fruit and spice on the nose. Tons of plum and cassis, bits of black pepper and cardamom, and an herbal component (oregano? basil?). The palate is surprisingly austere. Wait. There is a ton of fruit, for sure, but this is a much more restrained wine than I anticipated. Again, the fruit is at the front, but it is quickly joined by a tangy zestiness that balances the fruit instantly and carries the palate through the finish. There is also a subtle earthiness that, frankly, I have not experienced in a wine at this price point. I have said this about all of the Kirkland wines, but this is an incredible value. Excellent. 91 Points.

2024 Kirkland Signature Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Terroir Des Papes, Rhône Valley, France: Retail $22. Very Responsible Bottle (456g; 16.1oz). 70% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Mourvèdre. In all, I tried 13 bottles of Kirkland wine and this was the first one (it was last in line), that caused me to pause, at least for a moment or two. Fairly dark in the glass with plenty of dark, red, and blue fruit on the nose; ripe, robust, and even refined, this is quite inviting in the glass. The palate is rather robust, with plenty of fruit, weight, and gusto. There is some spice, of course, as well as some earth, a zingy acidity. Then there is the finish, which lingers for quite some time. Sure, this is no Château la Nerthe, but this punches above its weight class, for sure. Excellent. 91 Points.