As I have stated a few times in this space, I really enjoy cooking and I like to think that I have gradually become better at it (although, if you ask my two boys, I doubt they have taken any notice). One aspect of my cooking that could improve? Managing portion size and managing leftovers.

Generally speaking, I don’t like leftovers; if I could, I would make something new every night. Not too long ago, I was regularly making dinner for six people: My in-laws, my two sons, my wife, and me. But soon, that number will be reduced in half as both of the boys will be out of the house starting this September (and my father-in-law passed away this past spring).

Leftovers, at any given time in our house, dominate the refrigerator and have necessitated the occasional Musgo Wednesday as in “the leftovers are out of control, and they must go today” (“Musgo Monday” would be better of course, but we already have “Meatless Monday” and “Taco Tuesday”).

So why am I telling you all of this?

Well, there is a similar phenomenon when it comes to my wine writing. I am constantly taking notes on various tastings, random bottles of wine, and even a one-off rant here and there. They exist in the notes app on my phone (I learned writing my dissertation that hand-written notes no longer made any sense whatsoever), and they stay (and sometimes die) there, hoping to be published at some point.

Well, I am determined to get many (or at least some?) of those notes up on this site, and this is therefore my first (of hopefully many) “Musgo Wednesdays” here on TDC.

Back in May, James Hall, the owner of Patz & Hall Winery, came to the house for a bit of dinner and to show the latest releases of his impressive wines. I will be back next week with a bit more about the winery and the tasting notes from the red wines, so for now, here are a few Chardonnays and one of his fantastic sparkling wines.

2017 Patz & Hall Brut Sparkling Wine, North Coast, CA: Retail $85. Extremely Heavy Bottle (859g; 30.2oz). 100% Chardonnay. Patz & Hall makes three sparkling wines: a Brut, a Rosé, and a Blanc de Blancs, but even though this is 100% Chardonnay, it is under their “Brut” label. So I am confused. The quality of the wine, however, is not at all confounding; this is Outstanding. Sure, it is really tart, but that should mellow some with some additional time (even though it has already spent 5 years on the lees and was disgorged in 2023). Great citrus and depth, with a yeasty, biscuity midpalate that magnifies through the finish, which I do not find in many domestic sparkling wines. Speaking of that finish, it lingers for days, convincing me (along with all of that tartness) that this wine will continue to improve for a decade. Maybe more. Outstanding. 94 Points.

2023 Patz & Hall Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $40. Responsible Bottle (539g; 19.0oz). Under DIAM10. A blend of 23 single vineyard sites across Sonoma County, with a production of about 20k cases, roughly half the entire production of Patz & Hall. Fantastic nose of white acacia flower, freshly grated lime zest, and a tropical fruit note (guava? pineapple?). The palate is bright and fruity, with just the right amount of oak (10 months in French oak, 17% new) to lend some weight and depth, but far from cumbersome, and even further from heavy-handed. James Hall says that while not trying to mimic Burgundy, it is certainly an inspiration, and those efforts are clear as this wine is light on its feet, but it is also a serious and quite tasty wine. Outstanding. 93 Points.

2023 Patz & Hall Chardonnay, Hyde Vineyard, Carneros, CA: Retail $55. Heavy Bottle (660g; 23.3oz). Under DIAM10. From the Napa side of Carneros, the Hyde Vineyard is close to legendary status, and I would certainly classify it as a “1er Cru” kind of status (not sure I’d go Grand Cru, but I’m open to arguments). Quite reductive on the nose, plenty of sulfur, even though a minimal amount was used, according to James Hall, who was over for dinner. Touches of citrus and tree fruit, hints of oak and white flower, but the sulfur really dominates, to be honest. The palate is another story, however, with some nice fruit, fantastic tartness, and a flinty character on the midpalate. Of the three Chardonnays that James brought with him, this was not my favorite, but it is still fantastic, with plenty of character and verve. Excellent. 91 Points.

2023 Patz & Hall Chardonnay, Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $70. Heavy Bottle (661g; 23.3oz). DIAM10. I would guess that many in the wine world would agree that Dutton Ranch deserves consideration as one of the majestic vineyards. Not just in California, but in the country writ large and perhaps the wine world as a whole. Creamy and rich on the palate with plenty of lemon curd, white flower, and just slight hints of spice, vanilla, and oak. The palate is even more expressive, with all that fruit, a unifying acidity, and a mineral vein that, frankly, surprised me. This was clearly my favorite wine in the flight we had with James Hall here in Houston. The palate is delightful, with plenty of fruit, as well as acidity, with depth and complexity that is rare, even for this quality of wine. Outstanding. 95 Points.