When I first started writing about wine, I really never envisioned that wineries would actually send me wine to review on this site. Sure, I secretly hoped it would happen, but I really harbored no illusions that my furtive desire would come to fruition.
Fast forward nearly a dozen years into this blog and I still am a little flabbergasted that I receive wines on a regular basis. While I genuinely feel fortunate to receive any wines from producers, there are certainly some boxes that elicit euphoria, and at the top of that list is Tongue Dancer Wines.
My reviews of Tongue Dancer Wines started with the 2016 vintage (2015 if you include the incredible 2015 TDW Sparkling Brut Rosé–when is the next sparkling wine James and Kerry??) and since then, I like to call James and Kerry MacPhail friends. But harbor no illusions, when it comes to their wines, I try to put that behind me and remain objective.
But geez. The wines are good.
And these new releases are no different. In fact, I hazard to assert that this single batch of wines is the highest-scoring box that I have ever opened (and that includes one of the wines that was corked, but I promised Kerry that I would not mention that).
These wines are only available through the winery (tonguedancerwines.com) for the most part, and while not inexpensive, certainly represent some of the best value in California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir today. They are that good.
2021 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Irwin Lane, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $45. Under cork. Wonderfully light bottle! This is now the fifth vintage of this wine that I have tried and it continues to amaze and delight. Light to medium yellow in the glass with the characteristic Tongue Dancer lemon curd, subtle mineral note, and even a bit of lychee. James MacPhail bristles when I call him a “Chardonnay Whisperer” but it is true; his Chards are among the best in Sonoma. Sure, he fancies himself a Pinot guy, but his Chards? Whoa. No exception here. The fruit is the star, albeit briefly, followed by an intense tartness, some oak (although completely in line), and then a few waves of verve, this is what American Chardonnay should be… Outstanding. 96 Points.
2021 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay The Sly One, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $59. Montrachet clone. 100% Malolactic fermentation. 100% concrete. This is now the fifth Chardonnay in the Tongue Dancer line and, well, I just might take credit for it (James and Kerry can protest all they want, but I know the truth). I told the dynamic duo that while their Pinot Noirs were absolutely fantastic, the Chardonnays (at the time there were two?) were otherworldly. Well, another three (?) Chardonnays later, we land on this first vintage of The Sly One Chardonnay (the Pinot precedes it by a couple of years). Whoa. While this might be indeed from the Montrachet clone, this is all Chablis for me. The full malo and concrete aging offer some roundness and body, but this is about two elements: the fruit and the acidity. The first is predominantly citrus with some yellow apple and even apricot while the second is zingy and balancing. There is certainly a creamy aspect to this wine, but it plays a secondary even tertiary role here, and it plays it oh so well. Outstanding. 95 Points.
2021 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir Fox Trot, Anderson Valley, CA: Retail $40. Heavy bottle. Agglomerated stopper. Last year was the first vintage of this wine and I tasted it twice; I loved it both times. A. Lot. So I was really excited when Kerry MacPhail (the “mysterious” half of the Tongue Dancer team) sent me this 2021. I popped it with my lovely wife as she watched the final episode of Ted Lasso (I had already seen it but I was trying to play the role of dutiful husband, natch). Well, the episode was better than the wine. Not by much, mind you, but while the show was pulling at the heartstrings and even a bit maudlin at the end, the wine was, well, boisterous and aggressive. So I put its cork back in it. Day Two? Holy mother of football. All that aggression had abated and what was left was Total Pinot (I was going to say “Total Wine” but for obvious reasons…). I understand that all reading this might not be Ted Lasso fans, so let me sum up the wine to you thusly: dark, even peppery fruit, with anise, basil, and even some cardamom on the nose (Day 2). The palate is fruity, yes, but also harmonious, with each element excelling and then demurring to the others. Look, I know I am waxing a bit about this wine but do yourself a favor: decant while watching one episode of your favorite binge-worthy show. Drink during the second. Thank me during the third. Cheers. Outstanding. 95 Points.
2020 Tongue Dancer Pinot Noir Pinot de Ville, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $65. Under cork. Delightfully light bottle. While previous vintages of this wine had been sourced from the Putnam Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast appellation. In 2020, that fruit was lost to smoke taint, so TDW pivoted and James found some Russian River fruit from The Farm Vineyards (Dijon Clone 777) and Lakeview Vineyard (in the Green Valley of Russian River (La Tâche Clone). This is now the fourth vintage of this wine that I have sampled and I dare say that it is the best Pinot de Ville that I have tried. It is so good, in fact, that I texted the winemaking team to make sure that my relative assessment was correct. Winemaker James MacPhail indicated that this was but the second-best vintage of the Pinot de Ville. I decided to press a bit and James hinted that the best vintage of this wine had yet to be sent to me and, being the seasoned researcher that I am, deduced that the best vintage must be the 2021 (I am rather greedy when it comes to Tongue Dancer, so I asked if that could be remedied). Well if there is a better vintage than this 2020, watch out: this wine is gangbusters, perhaps “gangbusters on steroids” with rich black and wild cherry, vanilla highlights, subtle sweet basil, and a whole lot of verve. Whoa. The palate follows suit with all the nose portended and more, including impeccable balance and a finish that rivals, well, you-know-where. Extraordinary. 97 Points.
the drunken cyclist 