As many of you know, we live in downtown Philly, near the Art Museum, whose steps were made famous by Rocky Balboa (by the way, the sequence of roads he takes in the movie makes absolutely no sense). One of the many reasons why it is a great neighborhood, is the number of good places to eat. There are at least 6 locales within a 10 minute walk where we would consider eating dinner–and those are just the BYOB restaurants! About a year ago, our absolute favorite, l’Oca closed down for good. I will not get into the reasons for the shuttering, or the fact that we really like the new establishment that has filled the space (Hickory Lane). Instead, I will focus on one of the dishes that used to be served at l’Oca: Trofie con Funghi. There were a lot of great options on the menu, but this was my favorite–simple but flavorful, it would also pair with just about any wine I would bring.  Most of the time, I would bring a pinot, which should not come as a shock to any of you.

On the very last night that l’Oca was open, we happened to be there (the closing was sudden and rather unexpected). The chef was absent, but one of the waiters, Paul, who assumed charge of the kitchen that night, told me the recipe after hearing me lament that I would never eat my favorite dish again. In school I was the kind of student that needed to write everything down, lest I forget, but this night, no such exercise was required–Paul had my undivided attention.  It also helped that the recipe was rather simple, and included a surprise–the potato–I did not see that coming. I have tried this recipe several times since that final night at the restaurant, and I would like to believe that I have come a bit closer to the original each time. This last time I tried it, I was still flying solo–the boys and my wife have been gone for two weeks. I certainly think this was my best effort, but I was also starving, so take it for what that is worth.

From beginning to end, it should take no more than 30 minutes, less if you are somewhat at ease in the kitchen. It requires very little equipment other than either a mandolin or a potato ricer to prepare the potatoes. You could likely use a cheese grater, but I have yet to try that. Let me know if you do, it might actually be a good option.

List of ingredients:

Trofie pasta (really any smallish rotini style pasta should do). This is what trofie looks like, to give you an idea (from Wikipedia):

Medium size yellow potato—Either peeled or not, sliced very thin, using a mandolin (or a potato ricer).

3-4 oz. of sliced mushrooms per person–chanterelles would be the best, but they are somewhat hard to find and can be pricey, so I usually get cremini or shitake, but plain white will also do.

Onion, shallot, garlic—just a handful, diced.  I usually throw in a clove or two of garlic and then a shallot, but I have also used onion—just adding a little flavor here.

A grated semi hard to hard cheese that will melt easily. I have used Tomme de Savoie, Gruyère, Comté and Asiago Fresco—it seemed that the Asiago Fresco (not the aged Asiago) worked the best.

A splash of chicken or vegetable stock—you can also use some of the water from the cooking pasta.

Olive Oil—a splash to get the onions going.

Arugula—a hand full.

Salt and pepper to taste.

As the water is boiling/pasta is cooking, heat up a skillet and then add a little olive oil, add the onion and garlic and sweat them a bit.  Add the mushrooms and toss for a few minutes until it is clear the mushrooms have reduced a bit.

Here comes the most difficult part (but it is not really that hard at all):

Add a bit of the chicken stock (maybe a quarter cup) and then start adding the potato in the middle of the pan (with the mushrooms off to the sides), bit by bit, stirring rather vigorously, cooking the potato.  If you had riced/sliced the potato finely enough, it will essentially disintegrate and thicken into almost a paste.  If the potato is not fine enough, don’t worry, just cook a little longer, ensuring it is cooked through.  Add the cheese and toss until melted.  At the very last moment, add a handful of arugula, and fold it in, causing it to wilt slightly.

Portion out the pasta into bowls, mix in the mushroom ‘sauce’ and some additional arugula.

This night, I chose (what else?) a pinot, but not just any pinot.  I opted for our last bottle of 2006 Cosentino Sonoma Pinot Noir.  I have mentioned the important place that Cosentino holds in my wine evolution (it was my first wine club and a perpetual stop on my many trips to Napa), but I do not often indicate what a talented wine maker Mitch Cosentino is.  For the size of the winery, I doubt there are many producers out there that tackle so many different varieties–and do them as well.  This pinot is a case in point: Mitch is certainly best known for his Bordeaux blends–bigger, meatier reds with cabernet usually as the base.  In my opinion, these more opulent wines rely heavily on the expression of the fruit–at least more so than a pinot can.  Pinot is a much more delicate grape and will expose attempts at over manipulation rather quickly.  That is why I think Mitch is a wine maker that deserves more attention than he normally receives–he handles both approaches sublimely.  This bottle, while certainly showing the rich Sonoma fruit up front, made no attempt to bombard the drinker with any ‘jamminess’.  Rather, it had a nice depth and a subtle earthiness that blended in with the mushrooms and cheese of the dish seamlessly.  The long, lingering finish left me searching for more of the pasta as well as more of the wine.  Excellent. 91 points.