Over the course of a week, I taste a bunch of wine, usually with friends, and almost always with my wife. Here are some of the wines we tasted this last week that stood out:
2009 Clos Pepe Estate Chardonnay Barrel Fermented: Retail $34. This wine was a return to the form I recorded in a previous note. It also improved notably as it warmed up. From earlier this year: The nose reminds me of a really nice Meursault–a bit of fruit and vanilla with just a hint of oak. On the palate loads of lemon zest and even apricot with just the right amount of oak. This wine is superb and will continue to improve. Outstanding. 91-93 Points.
2002 Domaine Pierre Gelin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Prieur: Retail $65. A classic decade old Burg with refined, subtle flavors of dried red fruit and even some spice with mostly integrated tannin. Certainly on the austere side (especially when compared to the 2003 Domaine Drouhin), but no one expects a rambunctious Burg. Outstanding. 91-93 Points.
NV Gosset Champagne Brut Excellence: Retail $40. I might have held on to this one a tad too long—lacking in both effervescence and freshness. I know this was never a “great” champers, but still. Good. 85-87 Points.
1986 Jaffelin Clos Vougeot: Retail $80? Sadly, this was our last bottle of this wine, which we shared with our dear friends. The wine was stellar as always, with hints of fruit and intriguing complexity, this wine was truly magnificent. There was also a coarseness that I had not noticed before that was neither out of place nor harmonious, but certainly added to its allure. Outstanding. 92-94 Points.
2006 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant: Retail $100? I just pulled this one out of the cellar—no chill, no decant. There is certainly nothing like drinking a Clos de la Coulée de Serrant—it is a dessert wine without the sugar with a viscosity that seems to be more like extra virgin olive oil than wine. This is an incredible experience. Outstanding. 93-95 Points.
NV Krug Champagne Grande Cuvée Brut: Retail $125. Yes, Krug is Krug, and this was fantastic, but it fell a little short of previous bottles I have had. The depth was incredible, the finesse remarkable, but the nuttiness was a bit overpowering and too prominent. But I nitpick, this is incredible champagne. Outstanding. 92-94 Points.
NV Mailly Grand Cru Champagne Brut Réserve: Retail $40. Perhaps I was in a bit of a mood, or maybe it was not one of those ridiculous “fruit” days on the biodynamic calendar. For whatever reason, this Mailly fell a bit short of expectation. Sure, it was still very good, but it was lacking in the creamy, yeasty, biscuity department. Yeah, there is one of those departments. Very Good. 87-89 Points.
2005 Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses: Retail $30. Ah Chablis, it has been far too long! Opened this along side great friends and an Epoisses, hands down my (second) favorite cheese (the first is Bleu de Termignon, but it is impossible to find anymore). The Chablis was flinty, creamy, and bracing all at once—a perfect pairing for the pungency of the Epoisses. Outstanding. 90-92 Points.
NV Taylor (Fladgate) Porto 10 Year Old Tawny: Retail $30? Every time I open a bottle of Port, I think “I do not drink enough Port.” This was an older bottle of ten year tawny that we opened for friends who were over for dinner for the first time. Raisin and allspice a-go-go here with a bit of heat. All that and more on the palate (some mocha on the finish?). Yup, need to get me some more port…. Very Good to Outstanding. 88-90 Points.
1994 Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton: Retail $65? We drank this right after the 1986 Jaffelin Clos Vougeot and I was worried that it might not hold its own. Well, I was wrong. While certainly not as complex as the Jaffelin, this narrowly won the balance and finesse battle. Perfectly harmonious from first sip to last swallow, this was one of the more complete Cortons I have had. Outstanding. 93-95 Points.
WINE OF THE WEEK: We had a very good friend join us this week for just a few short hours. When other very dear friends joined in, I decided it might be a night to pull a few special corks. All of them: NV Krug, 2006 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, 1986 Jaffelin Clos Vougeot, 1994 Tollot-Beaut Corton, and the 2005 Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Les Preuses would all have been Wine of the Week had the others had remained on the rack. So instead of one Wine of the Week this go around, I have decided to have a Wine (Night) of the Week. That was this past Wednesday when we managed to get through all those bottles and still make it to work (early, even) on Thursday. I am sure I was not the only one to wonder what might have happened if this did not take place on a “school night.”








With the holidays coming I needed some good recommendations…thank you!
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It is that time of year again!
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So you still insist that you had no special reason to open so many great bottles?
By the way, for how long did you hold on to that Krug before opening?
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Yes, that is my story and I am sticking to it. He is a dear friend and we used to get together (and drink like that) all the time when he lived in Philly…
Had the Krug for a few years–nothing extreme–which makes me a bit worried….
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My recent experience with the Krug at the trade tasting two month ago was simply “blah” – that wine didn’t do anything for me – very different from my past experiences. You might remember I mentioned in one of my posts that there is a concern that Krug is now going in the way of “universal taste”, which will remove all the individuality from it…
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Yeah, I was certainly less “wowed” this time around than I have been in the past. I hope you are wrong about the concern you stated in the second part of your comment, but I can certainly see why that might be the perception…
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Thanks for opening up a port. I haven’t drank it in years — somehow its existence has totally slipped my mind — and I had completely forgotten just how good it can be, especially on a chilly winter night.
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I agree on all points–I don’t drink nearly enough of it….
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Loving the blog! And interesting to see your comments on the Joly Clos de la Serrant 2006 – this week I tasted Joly’s Les Vieux Clos 2005 which I was slightly apprehensive about given the constant mixed reviews I read about Joly’s wines! Happily it was bang on – ripe, rich, complex while simultaneously fresh – I even had it with some sushi which was excellent.
I also had the great honour of trying a 1959 Chassagne-Montrachet by Delagrange-Bachelet which was also a great surprise! The cork came out fully intact (if not a little shrunken in stature!) and I was amazed that the wine had managed to retain some freshness and acidity which I really didn’t expect. I also mentally gave it about 10 minutes out of the bottle before turning to vinegar but in actual fact it deepened in complexity and got better with time – almost sherry like flavours of candied fruits and honey complexity, balanced by an amazing freshness. Not a wine you get to try every day that’s for sure! Props to the hotel and sommelier for having looked after it so well.
Look forward to reading more!
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Wow! A 1959 C-M? That is amazing! And you had it in a restaurant–it must have cost you a small fortune!
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