Tales From: Dry Creek Vineyard

Back in April, I spent two great days in the Dry Creek Valley, meeting several growers and wine makers, and visiting a handful of wineries. Up until this last stop, I had visited (with the exception of Ridge, of course) smaller producers in the Valley. Not many would classify Dry Creek Vineyard as a small producer with over 100 thousand cases produced, but all would recognize the pivotal role that the winery has played in the history of Dry Creek Valley and Northern Sonoma County.

Courtesy Dry Creek Vineyards

Courtesy Dry Creek Vineyards

I strolled into the spacious, yet not ostentatious tasting room, weaved through the dozen or so people tasting at the bar, and disclosed to the tasting room attendant that I was looking for my host for the day, Bill Smart, the Director of Marketing and Communications. Moments later, Bill came out with a welcoming smile and a hearty handshake. I instantly thought I was not going to like Bill very much. He was sporting a full beard–something I have tried to do numerous times in my life, but failed horrifically each time (and therefore I carry a bit of a grudge against those that can).

It turned out that he was an incredibly nice guy despite the beard (yes, I remain steadfast in initially judging people based on their facial hair–I’ll admit that I am a little bitter). Bill, who has been with the winery nearly ten years, would lead me through a tasting of several wines, while sharing a bit of the history of the winery and exhibiting his considerable wine knowledge.

In the late 1960’s, the founder of Dry Creek Vineyards, Dave Stare, was traveling in France when he became smitten with the wines from the Loire Valley. When he returned to the U.S., he was determined to open a winery, and after some searching, he bought a run-down prune orchard in the Dry Creek Valley where he established the Dry Creek Vineyard in 1972.

He modeled the property after what he had experienced in the Loire and, despite being advised against it from some respected wine growers at the time, he was resolute to first plant Sauvignon Blanc (one of the signature grapes in the Loire) in his vineyard, which he was able to purchase some from a nursery in Clarksburg, CA–about 100 miles away. His decision to eschew that advice was a good one–Sauvignon Blanc has not only thrived at Dry Creek Vineyards, but it has become the signature white variety of the Dry Creek Valley.

Today, the second generation of the family is very much involved as Dave’s daughter, Kim Stare Wallace serves as the winery’s President, and her husband, Don, is a partner and former president and general manager of the winery.

While the family owned vineyards, mostly in the Dry Creek Valley, provide nearly 70% of the fruit needed for production, Dry Creek Vineyards sources additional fruit from both the Russian River Valley (Chardonnay) and Clarksburg (Chenin Blanc) to produce the winery’s 20 or so different bottlings.

Bill and I sat down outside in the tasting room’s courtyard to go through a few of the nationally distributed wines.

Courtesy Dry Creek Vineyards

Courtesy Dry Creek Vineyards

2013 Dry Creek Vineyard Chenin Blanc: Retail $12. Fermented and aged in 100% stainless steel, the wine is rich and a bit unctuous with bright acidity and a steely minerality. The tropical notes on both the nose and the palate lend this a sense of sweetness despite the near-dry (0.6% residual sugar) fermentation. Bill told me that Dave Stare’s goal was to “put the best wine in the bottle and charge a fair price for it.” I am not sure if this is the best wine, but is a darned good one, and for $12? I would buy it. Very Good. 88-90 Points.

IMG_2462

Chenin, Fumé, and Sauvignon Blancs, Chardonnay

2013 Dry Creek Vineyard Fumé Blanc: Retail $13. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Dave Stare “borrowed” the name from Robert Mondavi and the winery has considered changing the name of the wine, but according to the feedback provided by their customers, it has become a part of the wine’s identity and so it remains. The wine, which represents over half of the winery’s yearly production, is a 50/50 blend of fruit from Dry Creek Valley and the neighboring Russian River Valley. With a nice floral component initially, the wine is clean and bright with some additional citrus notes. Good to Very Good. 86-88 Points.

2013 Dry Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc: Retail $18. While this wine is vinified in exactly the same way as the Fumé Blanc, it is 100% Dry Creek Valley fruit and 9% Muscat is added to round out the acidity and provide a bit more floral nose. Very Good. 87-89 Points.

2013 Dry Creek Vineyard Foggy Oaks Chardonnay Russian River Valley: Retail $20. There is certainly some oak here, which is not obtrusive, but this is more of the “traditional California” style Chardonnay, since 70% of the wine goes through malolactic fermentation and 40% sees new French oak (with the remaining 60% in 1-2 year old barrels). The wine is a pleasing creamy lemon curd, with nice acidity on the finish. This is another wine that, for the price is a no-brainer. Very Good. 88-90 Points.

Heritage Vines, Cabernet Sauvignon, The MAriner

Heritage Vines, Cabernet Sauvignon, The MAriner

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard Heritage Vines Zinfandel: Retail $19. 14.5% ABV 85% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah. 70% of the fruit comes from Dry Creek Valley (where grafted onto old vines–thus “heritage”), while the other 30% is from the Russian River.  Rich red fruit and spice (sage and thyme), this would be a great pasta wine, or paired with red meat off the grill. Very Good. 88-90 Points.

2010 Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon: Retail $25. 100% Dry Creek Valley fruit from 10 different vineyards.There is both pepper and a bit of tobacco on the nose, with nice fruit initially on the palate. A bit thin through the mid -palate, but there is a nice finish with hints of mocha. Very Good. 88-90 Points.

2011 Dry Creek Vineyard “The Mariner” Meritage: Retail $45. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec. 100% Dry Creek Valley. Great red berry fruit initially, followed by some darker fruit and spicier notes. On the palate, the fruit is initially forceful, but gracefully mellows over the mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish. Outstanding. 90-92 Points.

EBZN112

Last, Bill handed me one more bottle on my way out, which I recently had with my beloved tri-tip (and my wife, of course) at home.

2011 Dry Creek Vineyard Zinfandel DCV2 Four Clones: Retail $40. This needs time. Let me repeat: This needs time. At first, fruity and rather one-dimensional, but as the evening wore on, the wine revealed some more depth and secondary flavors. Dark red fruit, licorice, cassis–really inviting nose. On the palate, a wave of fruit initially with some chocolate. The finish really wants to linger, but fades a bit too soon. Initially? Very Good. 86-88 Points. With some air? 89-91 Points. In a year or two? I think this firmly achieves Outstanding. 91-93 Points.

Advertisements

About the drunken cyclist

I have been an occasional cycling tour guide in Europe for the past 20 years, visiting most of the wine regions of France. Through this "job" I developed a love for wine and the stories that often accompany the pulling of a cork. I live in Houston with my lovely wife and two wonderful sons.
This entry was posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Dry Creek Valley, Meritage, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine, Zinfandel and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

10 Responses to Tales From: Dry Creek Vineyard

  1. Looking to the photos I always think that one of the greatest things that you guys have in your country about products is the care to have a good labeling design and wineries buildings and interior’s design, not as here in most of the wine companies, shame!

    Like

  2. Bill Smart says:

    Thanks for the great comments Jeff! It was wonderful having you on property. Next time, let’s run through all the single vineyard, small lot stuff!

    Like

  3. Something for you to ruminate on: would you be judgy of non-facial hair people if you could grow facial hair and sported a hefty beard? I think beards are kind of gross though, so I believe your lucky for your beard struggles….

    Like

  4. I’m with you on the facial hair thing. At age 22, I won the “worst beard on the ship” competition on our submarine: embarassing. Then at the Philmont scout ranch about 5 years ago (12 day backpacking trip), one of the other dads on our crew told me several days into the trip: “Jeff, you need to shave that mess”. I guess my beard did not improve as I aged.
    Anyway, I do like Dry Creek Vineyards wines, thanks for sharing your experience there.

    Like

    • I hear you. I dated a woman for a while that wanted me to grow a goatee thing. Let’s just say that had I met a male pornstar, he would have recoiled in horror at the hair on my face. I wish it would have been classified as cheesy—that would have been a huge upgrade.

      Like

  5. Lynn Millar says:

    One of my favorite wineries for gracious ambiance. Wine’s good too.

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s