Although I have never really heard someone explicitly say it, I get the feeling that it is somehow “not cool” to say you like Chardonnay, particularly if you are male. I do not know if this stems from the stupid notion that white wines are “feminine” and red wines are “masculine” or from another out-dated meme that Chardonnay is “Cougar Juice” and just for Middle-Aged women who, well, you’ll have to Google the rest.

Well, I am here, stating without equivocation that I am a white wine lover, particularly Chardonnay. And when it comes to making, there are few better than James MacPhail at Tongue Dancer Wines.

Today, I offer up tasting notes of the current releases from Tongue Dancer, perhaps my favorite producer in Sonoma County. I met Kerry and James MacPhail about a decade ago, and I have been reviewing (and loving) their wines since. They recently sent me a slew of wines and last week, I presented the Pinots first, the way they do in Burgundy, since I try to do it like one does in Burgundy whenever posiible. 

2024 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Irwin Lane, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $50. Heavy Bottle (628g; 22.1oz). Under cork. I have been reviewing this wine for a minute, and I have to say that I firmly believe that this wine has gotten better over the years. Even a lot better. Case. In. Point. Fairly light in color with a rather intense nose of lemon curd with a mineral note, a touch of white pepper, and just a hint of green apple on the nose. The palate is its normal greatness with plenty of rich, enveloping fruit, weight and complexity for days, along with that characteristic James MacPhail tang–a tartness that both unifies and defines the wine, taking it from solid to ethereal. I am not entirely sure who’s the best American Chardonnay winemaker, but James MacPhail should certainly be considered to be on its Mt. Rushmore. Outstanding. 96 Points.

2023 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $55. Heavy Bottle (628g; 22.1oz). Under cork. This is now the second bottle of this glorious wine that I have received to review, and I am happy to report that it is every bit as good as back in November of last year, maybe even better. A solid, brilliant yellow in the glass with plenty of lemon curd and honeysuckle on the nose, with mineral notes and just a touch of oak. The palate carries on in the same vein with a slightly more intense acidity than I remember, which is almost never a bad thing! On the palate, honestly, it is a bit more subdued than the last go-around, which is not a bad thing in any sense of the word. In fact, this wine is a lot closer to a Chassagne than it was six months ago. Not that this was the goal, but, damn, I feel like it is the result. Holy cow, yowza, and, of course, Whoa. Outstanding. 96 Points.

2024 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Tolmasoff Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, CA: Retail $59. Heavy Bottle (627g; 22.0oz). Under cork. When the fine folks at Tongue Dancer first made this wine, they called it “Magnolia Montrachet”. When I saw that? I called them immediately and suggested that my French friends would never go for the use of “Montrachet” on the label. I hesitate to say that they ignored me, but let’s just say it did not make much of an impact. Well, here we are. They are no longer allowed to use that term. Moving on. Whoa. This has always been a favorite and this vintage might be the best thus far. Lemon, a mineral aspect, but this nose is defined by a rather intense and engaging buttered popcorn aspect. Whoa, again. The palate is weighty, yet lithe, fruity, tart, and just magnificent, Montrachet-like, even. Wait, I can’t say that. Or can I? I am not sure, but what I can say? James MacPhail knows Chardonnay, like, a lot (can you tell I have been hanging out with my teenage son a bit too much?). Outstanding. 96 Points.

2023 Tongue Dancer Chardonnay Pratt Vine Hill, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $65. Heavy Bottle (629g; 22.2oz). Under cork. There have been times in my life when I have considered myself extremely lucky. My wife said “yes.” I have two wonderful, smart, healthy boys. I have a dog that is incredibly sweet and listens to me (most of the time). And I get to write about wine for “a living” (I might address that at another time). Part of that last point is that numerous wineries from around the world occasionally send me their wines to review. It is both humbling and an incredible responsibility as I want/need to approach each wine with an open mind and give an honest assessment. There are also times that I do all of that, and then the winery sends me another bottle of a wine that I have already reviewed. Sometimes, there is a flaw with the wine, and they would like me to revisit. Other times, it is simply an accident, and I am sent another bottle. Then there are the inexplicable “doubles,” which is what we have here. Kerry MacPhail, aka “the knowledgeable one” at Tongue Dancer Wines, does not make mistakes. In fact, I rely on her to tell me when I have an error (the knowledgeable one has a keen eye). So when she sent me another bottle of this Pratt Vine Hill Chardonnay, I figured it was intentional. I loved the first bottle (97 Points) and hopefully waxed poetically about the wine. [Past straw and onto yellow in color with an amazing nose. Yes, I typed “amazing” which I almost never say (and rarely type). Lemon curd, hazelnut, and a touch of buttered popcorn. Whoa. The palate is even more amazing with rich fruit, stunning acidity, minerality, and a silkiness that coats the mouth without you knowing it, helping to prepare you for the finish, which is lengthy, exquisite, and, well, close to life changing. Yes, I admit I am a huge fan of the brand and the people behind it, but this has to be on the short list for American Chardonnay royalty. And I am serious. Whoa.] But here we are, with another bottle of perhaps the best wine that Tongue Dancer produces. Oh well! Utterly fantastic. As I mentioned in my previous note, this wine is fruity, tart, and layered, but it is so much more. It is complex, nuanced, and even worthy of introspection. While my notes are similar, my assessment has changed. Up a notch. Extraordinary. 98 Points.