A few weeks ago, we were able to score another night at Shola Olyunloyo’s Studio Kitchen. For those of you that have never had the opportunity (or missed my article about the last time we were there), Studio Kitchen occurs in Shola’s apartment where he prepares a meal for 8-12 people. I do not know if Shola would agree, but I see him as a wonderful mixture of master chef, visionary artist and mad scientist.

I’m not sure what this is or what it does, but it looks expensive so I steered clear of it.

I say ‘mad’ because, well, I’m just not smart enough to understand even a third of what he does. He has centrifuges, liquid ntrogen, a Genevac Rocket Evaporator, and a rotary evaporator. I have absolutely no clue what any of those things do let alone how.

A small part of the pantry in Shola’s apartment.

This was my third trip to Studio Kitchen, and was likely the best meal of all three. The first time I had no idea what to expect nor what to bring in re wine since it was with a bunch of people that I had never met before. The second time, I knew what to expect and what wine to bring (since it was the same group of people as the first time), but it didn’t help since the champagne I brought was corked. This time was going to be slightly different for a couple of reasons: 1. Those joining us had never been before (parents from our kids’ school); and 2. As the ‘champagne guy’ I was going to bring a rockin’ bottle of boules (‘bubbles’ in French). I also brought a bit of a risk (a 1980 Batard Montrachet) and a rock solid pinot (2006 Siduri Hawk’s View). I could go on about my neurosis around choosing the right wine, but I won’t. Instead, let’s cut to the food and wine porn. First, the apéritif.

Champagne:

N.V. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin: Retail ~$45. Veuve gets a bad wrap from a lot of wine guys since, I guess, it has become the champagne of choice for every wine poser type. It does not matter to me all that much. I like the Veuve, and this one was no exception. Very good. 88 points.

Krug. ‘Nuff said.

Krug N.V. Grande Cuvée Brut: If I had unlimited resources (I don’t), this would be my every day wine. Bold statement, I know (it runs about $120 a bottle or so). For me, Krug defines not only champagne, but wine in general. If you have never had it, and you like wine even a little bit, have some. Trust me, you will not regret it, not for a second. If you are one of those people that don’t ‘get’ champagne, well, I don’t have anything else for you. Excellent 94 points.

1995 Dom Pérignon: When I heard that one of the other attendees was going to bring a bottle of 1996 Dom, I thought it would be fun to do a little mini-vertical, so I grabbed this bottle of ’95. Great idea, right? Not as well regarded as the ’96 (which is seen by many as the best vintage in recent memory), but no slouch. Unless it is CORKED of course. Ugh. Last time I was at Studio Kitchen, my champagne was corked. Once is a fluke, twice is a trend. Yeesh. CORKED.

1996 Dom Pérignon: As you might imagine, this was fabulous. In my opinion, this is still quite a baby (for reference, my favorite wine of all time was a 1973 Dom that I had in 2011). The wine had the characteristic brioche and biscuit flavors that Dom delivers in spades. The citrus and fruit were hiding a bit, but certainly were there. It would be great to have a case or two of this to monitor this one as it evolves. So if any of you out there that would like to donate a few dozen bottles…. Outstanding. 95 points.

On to the menu: The first course (Rye Bread Ice Cream. Steelhead Trout Roe. Everything):

We had a bit of champagne left over (but only a bit since my bottle was corked) for the ice cream course. It feels weird using ‘ice cream’ and ‘course’ in the same sentence, but, well… This first course was a fascinating blend of texture, temperature and flavor. It felt like ice cream, but it tasted like an everything bagel. I was going to say ‘amazing’ but I would say that for every course, so I will refrain.

First course: Rye Bread Ice Cream. Steelhead Trout Roe. Everything

The second course (Pacific King Salmon. Gala apple. Soy. Sesame Parsnip):

As I was in the process of polishing off the Krug (hoping no one would notice), and then the corked 1995 Dom (hoping no one would notice), Shola started preparing the second course. Before I realized what was happening, Shola started ‘cooking’ the salmon by taking a blow torch to the woe begotten poisson.The salmon was spectacular, practically melting on the tongue. The flavors of apple and soy each made their presence known, but dared not upstage the fish.

Second Course: Pacific King Salmon. Gala apple. Soy. Sesame Parsnip

2009 Louis Latour Corton-Grancey Grand Cru: Another surprise for the wine guy tonight. I have several older vintages of this back home in the ‘cellar’ and I would have brought one had I known. But I didn’, so I didn’. As expected, this was a baby, but it was everything that I love about Burgundy: reserved, even austere, but hints of fruit and a rich mouth feel that teases you about what this wine might be. This wine is close, but there is no hurry to pop its cork, it will wait for you. Very Good (right now). 89 points.

2006 Siduri Hawk’s View Willamette Valley Pinot Noir: I brought this little puppy and I was pretty confident that this would be rocking. It was. Adam Lee at Siduri walks the fine line between overblown fruit-bomb and austere, reserved, food wine better than most (all?). This Hawk’s View was stellar–rich red and black fruit balanced with a deep, rich mid-palate and a long rich finish. I am an unabashed fan of Siduri, but this was really good. Excellent. 93 points.

2008 DuMOL Ryan Pinot Noir Green Valley: This was the ripest of the three: big red and black fruit with some backbone (tannin) to support it. Long finish that lingered for a while. This is not my favorite style of pinot, but I really do like it. I debated for a while between this and the Siduri as the winner of the ‘flight’. Slight edge to the Siduri (I won’t lie–the Siduri won because I brought it and I was still bruised over the ’95 Dom). Excellent. 92 points.